Electric Double Bass Build

Chris it will be easier to put the fret dot markers on now in it's building phase. You won't know the scale length until you work out distance nut to bridge saddles so it's a bit of a way off now.
It's just worth planning the build before you do a step that will make it more difficult later, been there/done that.

I'd probably purchase your binding. Be best to glue the fingerboard to the neck first as central as you can, let that dry. Then you will be able to glue the binding and it will rest flush against the prouder neck part. Make sure you have ample clamps as both of these steps should have as many clamps as possible.
You will learn the more scratch builds you do that planning is very important and can save some dramas down the track,.

You have really thrown yourself in the deep end with this build but it's coming along well

What colour would you go for? Black?

Hi Chris, what is the fingerboard it looks ebony ?
Binding doesn't cost that much, the postage will probably cost about as much so I'd order a white, black and cream strip, at least you can make that decision when it's mocked up.
Nothing worse than trying a colour on there and thinking I should have ordered another colour.
You can even get pearloid red binding looks cool on some of DB's builds.

There are many different sizes to order so make sure the height is at least fingerboard height, preferrably a bit higher.
Thickness you just have to estimate but I'd go slightly thicker than thinner ones are much easier to sand through or crack because they are sanded thin

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Originally Posted by wokkaboy

Hi Chris, what is the fingerboard it looks ebony ?

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Hey Wokka, yeah it's supposedly ebony. :)

I'm wondering how I'm going to clamp it down for gluing without too many clamps around, usually I just use a set of weights, but I think it might be harder here since both surfaces are radiused.

Do you have any binding round yours that I could take a look at if you're free? I could also use the opportunity to show you some of the other things I'd have to troubleshoot... :P

For example I'm not sure the neck and fingerboard are "FLAT" with respect to eachother (it seems like they go flat with some pressure, but I'm not sure if that's a good thing), and I'm not sure how to make the heel of the neck (which is currently rough cut) flat as well.

Remember you don't fret on the dots they are only a guide, good hearing and pitch is essential.
Studied classical violin for a couple of years and was not good, think cutting up a cat with a chainsaw, also made sight reading interesting when backing artists ( bass is not written in the treble clef )

Hey guys,

I'm at the point where I need to start cutting out the boosters, however I am a novice when it comes to actual woodwork, and I'm not actually sure how to make big chunks of wood, let alone cut a curve into one.

I'm going to link a video at the end of this post of a very, very professional DIY Banjo Bass. At the top and bottom he has structures that I will need to do some form of copy of - they are boosting the length that the tailpiece can attach to, providing a place for the leg to telescope into and also boosting the scale length.

Using pine, how would I actually make a chunk of wood that size? This is really basic woodworking, I know, but I have no idea. Do I get some of the big planks from bunnings and cut them into "cross sections" of the structure and then glue them together?

Thanks. PS this video's bass is amazing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s76WS9XEwmQ

I went to the big green shed to get some clamps, glue and some wood.

I bought the wrong sized wood for it to be most convenient (too small)...... So... Yeah. But I'm slowly cutting out pieces that are about 11.5 inches long. Planning to sand them down so they're flush. My only available saw is a coping saw - cheap and nasty... It's hard to cut straight so I should have cut 12, probably.

I bought some crappy, small, spring squeeze clamps. I bought a size or two too small. I shoved them on the neck and fingerboard while in my computer room. The clamp slid off at the fatter point of the neck and went flying across the room, hitting me in the face. Almost lost an eye (thanks Bunnings).

I've glued the fretboard down. Used too much glue if anything, but I guess I can fix it later. Keeping an eye on it now to make sure the fretboard doesn't drift off centre too far while drying.

I dunno guys. I'll get it done but it might not be pretty.

Pictures.

Note: These clamps are dangerous (and also too small for just about anything as I found out - bits of wood are actually bigger than they seem). I do not recommend them. I will probably return them if I can. Otherwise I'm going to have to take up some kind of hobby making.

Setup isn't ideal. I figure if there's a problem I can fix it later. As it is now it seems "FINE".

Fret dots don't tend to get used - usually teachers (for my two kids learning viola and cello) just use stickers in the right place. Once they know where the right place is, pull the sticker off and voila a clean fingerboard.

Took to the neck and fingerboard with some sandpaper. Sanding maple and ebony flush when they're a mm out in some places sucks, especially when it takes off your stain. Its possible that the fingerboard isn't totally straight due to creep but at the end of the day its not going to affect a fretless instrument where the bridge is mobile that much..... Its too hard to tell when the neck and fingerboard aren't yet level

I've still got Pva stains to sand through which also sucks. My cleanup wasn't the best