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First 2 coat of colour.
Missed a couple of stages between the last pic and this one;
- completed priming and sanding, filling obvious pits and riples.
- applied spray filler, 3 x dual coats, wet sanding between coats - finishing with 1200 Wet/Dry (used wet)
- apply first coat of colour (Heritage/Ivory White), light wet sanding using 800 and finishing with 1200 (also wet).
All sanding has been done by hand using a combination of soft and hard blocks for the flat areas and palm or rubber block on angles.
This pic is of a drying coat and you can see "orange-peel" in the flash mark, however the wet sanding will knock that out in a flash. The primer is bleeding through, but it will all but disappear on the next coat.
I expect that this body will take 8 or so coats more before I hit it with the polisher. I have not yet decided if this one will get a coat of clear - the model I am copying did not.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...first-coat.JPG
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Checked in on last nights painting this morning to discover the dodgy lamination problem has re-surfaced.
Sadly it seems as if the separation was longer than I thought and it has taken some moisture - causing a split line.
Should have gone with what I've been taught rather than trying a hot fix, or accepted Adams offer of a swap. Hindsight huh?!
If nothing else this experience supports what I was taught about this sort of problem; I should have cut and re-laminated, made an epoxy splint or binned it.
Adam has offered to replace/refund, which is very generous. However, after getting so close to the final coat, I have pretty much decided to give it the relic treatment and hang it on the wall. To my thinking this is really my fault anyway.
Interestingly up until now I would have thought that the combination of primer and spray putty used on this body would have reduced the likelihood of separation. As has been mentioned in the solid-finish v. wudtone threads, this sort of finish should create a torsion layer which binds and bonds the surface. I'm pretty surprised that more than dozen coats of primer, filler and enamel seems to have made little difference.
Come on SGD-612!!!
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...-new-split.JPG
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Ray,
Sorry to hear that you've got so close and are thinking of moving it to the Pool room wall... Will the crack be covered by a pickguard? I understand that you are concerned with delamination - not knowing where on the guitar it is, is there an option for a dowel or similar to hold the two sides together where it is delaminating? (my woodwork skills are pretty weak, so it may be a really dumb question)...
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Bummer!....
I would hazard a guess and say the solvents in the paint have caused the timber to shrink, re opening that b%$#tard lamination again..
Even so, no need to relegate the axe to the pool room, if you relic it you can always make up a back story as to the hard life she has had on the road :)
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[quote]/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from Brendan on July 7, 2013, 20:42
Will the crack be covered by a pickguard? ..... is there an option for a dowel or similar to hold the two sides together where it is delaminating?
Crack's on the back, towards the center of the body, but a cover-up is not really the go. I have already glued and screwed this join shut at the butt end, thinking it was the only place the block had let go - but it turns out that the entire join is suspect. Unfortunately there is not much I can reliably do with the new problem where it is.
If this was a customers guitar (and suitably valuable or important enough to be repaired) I would have separated and relaminated, since it is the only way to be sure that all of the seam is tight. As it stands now any knocks will very probably make the problem worse, possibly causing the timber to split through to the neck - hence the plan to hang it.
Cheers.
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DB,
If it is the solvents I am surprised that it has taken so long to open and (although the pic is a bit rough) it is more of a crack that a swollen join. I have been wet sanding the final coats, so I suspect that it could just be water that has done the damage - either way it sure is a bummer.
Appreciate the War Story suggestion but it will be going on the wall, any actual hard-life-on-the-road incidents will very likely cause the crack to worsen.
Cheers.
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Ray,
What 'filler' did you use to fill the crack? Many fillers tend to 'shrink back' and with the minimal tolerances in getting a mirror finish, this can be a common issue. Fillers such as Timbermate do not shrink back. Hence, I'm wondering what was used?
Gav
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Bugger. Sorry to hear that - looks like it will be a nice wall hanger though and you can save a few bucks on hardware if you're going to do that... Must admit I liked MaxAxe's hanging idea on his first guitar - putting a small piece of angle with a hole in it that could hang off something on the wall.
Dumb idea - racing (skunk?) stripe like in some acoustics along the centre of the back - could do it in something black (?binding maybe?) that could hide any repairs from the back and save having to respray the whole thing???
Grasping at straws, but I can imagine how heartbreaking it would be to get this far and have a wall hanger on your hands...
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Gav, no filler - that's the problem. This is a new split, further along from the original repair.
Brendan, maybe or possibly a full-on Frankenstein
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Bummer indeed. There is a lot to be said for the GT stripe option.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...29co-image.jpg
