+1 for Trevor's comments.
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+1 for Trevor's comments.
No worries, it's all going to get a water based poly sealer, irrespective of if I paint it or not! I'll do gloss on the headstock and satin on the neck. I'm just on the fence of whether to paint it all purple or leave it natural-colored. Because all the strat's and tele's I've looked at have the natural wood colored necks that have been sealed to whatever finish. It looks like the LP''s, double cuts, and fancier shapes, which have binding on the necks, are the ones that have painted/stained necks. I just don't know if I want to see maple or purple on the backside.
I think the reason that you see so many natural necks on Strats and Teles goes back to Leo Fender's design philosophy. A part of his genius was in making his guitars easy to manufacture and maintain. He didn't think there would be any need to re-fret an instrument if you could just replace the neck. So, they were designed to be interchangeable. At least initially, this meant they were pretty much all finished the same and all made of maple except for the skunk-stripe or fingerboard.Quote:
Originally Posted by ElleBrooke
Gibsons were designed in a more traditional way and finished with the necks on in a spray booth. Generally, particularly for clear finishes, the bodies and necks used the same woods. Either with stain or with solid colors, it is probably more economical to finish necks and bodies the same way.
By contrast, you neck is a work of art integral to your guitar. You should not feel constrained by petty economic issues ;-)
I am bad at making aesthetic choices...but... Maple is an interesting wood. Sometimes it's pretty boring. Sometimes its beautifully figured. How well you like its figuring may factor in. Even if it's not figured, it will look great natural. Still, you have already surprised us a lot with what you can do with paint. I am sure it will be great either way.
fender3x you are a wealth of information! That all makes total sense from a mass manufacturing perspective. And it gives me a lot to think about! Thank you so much for sharing that.
Hey, Son of the person who burned the guitar, after a long hiatus because of mental health issues I'm back and ready to finally put this thing together, but I need a little bit of help. Is there a guide specifically for the TL-1L wiring and hardware setup?Quote:
Originally Posted by colin2121
Coloring the neck is a tough call. It already looks so good - but you've got some serious skills. I don't think there's a wrong answer!
This wiring diagram should work...
https://www.solomusicgear.com/wp-con...NG-DIAGRAM.pdf
I am not sure if your colors will be the same as in the diagram. "Hot" wire from the pickups goes to the switch. The other wires go to ground. If there is a shielding wire (metal mesh that is wrapped around the wires coming from the pickups, that goes to ground too.
You may want to get a couple of "reverse audio" 250K ohm pots. The pots that come with the kit are probably either linear (stamped with a "B" usuall) or regular audio (stamped with an "A" usually). Reverse audio pots are usually stamped with a "C". You can use the pots the kit came with, they'll work backwards, I think.
Good to see you back at it.Quote:
Originally Posted by lotion5238
This is the link to the Pitbull wiring diagram.
https://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-co...f/PBG-TL-1.pdf
I am about to start working on the same kit but it won't look anywhere near as good as yours.
I was looking for that one, but couldn't find it...then realized that Lotion might want the lefty diagram. Oddly there are some wires missing on that one...hot wire from switch to v-pot, wire from v-pot to t-pot, bridge to ground...Quote:
Originally Posted by colin2121
Found the correct one, I'm wondering now how the pickups are supposed to be mounted, as I can't figure out how deep in they need to be. I'm guessing screwing them in all the way is fine because the neck juts out about a centimeter but I want to make sure I get it right.Quote:
Originally Posted by fender3x