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Kandy coats on and remarked ready for topcoats.
There’s a touch up need to do on the neck by the headstock. Primer seeped and scratched off on the stain. Need to flat it back and re satin.... bugger.
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'Duffus' would make a good headstock logo name.
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Woah!!!! That top coat went on mad!!! Leaving and returning tomorrow.
The beast has now been rechristened by a friend.....
‘Sexual chocolate”
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https://youtu.be/cEZM_8MWCc0
bit of video showing the clearcoats. This has had at least 4 coats. then a light "nib" then another 7 coats. I'll now leave this over the weekend to harden. then give it a good nib and flat (it doesnt need much... i dont think by then i hope) then another final coat then Ill remove the tape whislt its soft.
I noticed DUFFUS mark 2... that half way through the clearcoats i'd missed masking a part of the neck!!! no idea how that happened!! so there might be some overspray.. shouldnt be too hard to fix the satin...
its looking amazing and i'm really pleased with how its going... sorry for the 360 quality. I did film this in 4k so mot sure why its only showing up in 360...
Looks unreal, like a glass of coke bubbling away.
Today was about unwrapping the masking. There’s a couple of areas I’m gonna have to flat and recoat on the body and neck :( but on the whole it’s ok.
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Now I’m going to leave it to harden up for a few
Days.
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Woooooooo, SEXUAL CHOCOLATE!!
Looks utterly spectacular BG!
Absolute dynamite! Leave it as long as you can before you start the next stage.
Looks unreal.
Everything is drying and hardening up. I need to address some spots on the body with a touch of overspray. Nothing too mad just needs a touch of a sand and a touch up. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...53d1655d76.jpg
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Ok remask Ed and sanded and sorted out the side bleeds. There are still some tiny errors but I can live with them.
Need to cut back the top at some point but once it’s real hardened up so I’ll stick all the stuff on in the meantime.
Tried a test colour match on the gold hardware x x
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I’ll get the wiring in this weekend I hope. X
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This just keeps looking better and better.
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The patient is doing well. Under anasthetic... it’s a bit like a cross between electrics and colonic irrigation
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Bugger!! It’s all in and I was just about to attach the ground wire the solder snapped. So it’s all in bar the ground to bridge.
Question. Could I ground any pot to the bridge or does it have to be the bridge vol pot? The master vol by the pickup hole is a lot easier to get out.!!
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Any pot will do, as long as the pot backs are already connected together.
Whoever said the electrics was a night mate was understating it!!! I took the time pot out again toner solder the new earthbonnspent ages gettijgnit back in to drop the wire again down the hole!!!!!
In hign sight making the loom longer would ya e been a better idea as it gives much more wiggle room for the wires. Im goons eat and have a beer. Then decide. But I’m thinking of scrapping the loom and making a new one. Thebwires provided are amsolute crap. I have more wires though so I can just start again if I clean all the pots off. Not fun but can’t think of another way.
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I agree, the standard kit wires are pretty awful. They work, but are useless for putting a decent loom together.
Thanks. That might make it a little easier as the tone pot has little roomQuote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
Thanks
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Soooooo...... this is where I’ve left things. I ripped out the electrics. I kept on breaking wires. Not actually because of my soldering but because the wires provided were awful quality and I didn’t make the loom long enough. So.... I want happy with it. I want it to be right. So I’ve pulled it all out and removed all the wires from the components ready to make another loom with good wires from work and longer ones at that!!! The bonus is that all the posts and things are now pre tinned!!! Deep breath. The thing with these projects is knowing when to walk away and take a deep breath to return fresh and solve that problem.
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Yup, patience always yields better results. Looking great, even though you are having hassles.Quote:
Originally Posted by BuffaloGhost
you could have spent a bit more time blocking the paint a bit more to flatten it, my advice to everyone who does a paint or clear getting a 3m color sanding block or what i use i make all my sanding blocks i use a 10mm self adhesive eva foam on a 40mm wide piece of wood long as i need the flatter you get the paint the better it shines and looks a lot better a great paint job is in the prep work😀Quote:
Originally Posted by BuffaloGhost
He hasn't done any flattening yet, Phroz. it's just a few clear layers over the flake so far. Waiting a few days for it to cure before flattening and polishing.
No there’s no flattening done on the clearcoat yet. You can’t really flat flake before clearcoat as it fills the colour (turns the flake dull grey) this has tonnes of clear on it and it’s not going to be hard propperly for ages. I also don’t have any polishing equipment either. So my plan is to get everything fitted and working - wait a month until it’s really hardened off then strip it for polishing.
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I can’t afford any polishing stuff at the moment - I might hire a polisher and some cutting compounds from a car finishers if I can find one - I do have a friend who is an amazing custom car painter so the easy thing would be to ask
Him. :)
I tried polishing my samples by hand and they never worked.
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G'day Phrozin, what was the duro number for the EVA foam it is available from very soft to almost rock hard.
I got some 360 to make a dash pad for the race car when I got it road registered, had to buy a sq metre of it to get what rules required so the tiny piece I needed wasn't cheap
Quick update. Tried to test my new loom. My amp is a bit dodgy connection wise so not a brilliant test but it appears there is power running through it but my pickups are dead.. time to check that wiring again this evening.
Still trying to find a polisher....
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Phrozin uses these sorts of pads in a battery drill https://www.amazon.co.uk/TedGem-Poli...polishing+pads
You don't want the drill turning too quickly otherwise you get quick heat build-up and the finish softens, so a battery drill with speed control is ideal.
Interesting Build project and some fine results. As with my projects, we learn from our mistakes!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
Can I just give a huge thanks to all the guys in the community with their brilliant tips & hints. I've only done one full Pitbull project and a LP from Guitar Kit World, plus a few assembly jobs requiring necks that I've done with Pitbull parts. I try to digest as must of this info as I can from you "veterans".
I'm just starting my new project, an ATL-1FW “Thinline”, and psych'ing myself up to begin staining.
Sorry for the delay in posting. I’m dropping the guitar to a friend this evening for polishing. Although I wanted to do everything myself I’m still not confident enough not to cock this up. Ash was the guy who sprayed my beetle so seems fitting he should do this too. And in return I’m just doing some design work.
Here’s a pic in the sun the other day https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5b53e77994.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8fa6ba605b.jpg
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Beautiful.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c02ef7c91b.jpg half way through polishing.
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That colour is stunning; just beautiful!!
I agree with you about the final polish - I whinged at a friend of mine to do it on a guitar with heavy, heavy flake in it, too!! It seemed sensible to me both then, and now! He did the job and the thing just glitters and gleams!!
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Very nice!
Sweet Merciful Baby Jebus, that is superb!
Looks the goods mate ! Good work farming out the buffing, I hated buffing my ES
Better than me cocking it upQuote:
Originally Posted by Richy17
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Starry starry night.
That finish is simply glorious