Looks good Mark - particularly the string spacing without a drill press. There's no way I'd get them that even or straight.
I may have just missed this somewhere, but what do you think made the Cabot's Exterior peel?
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Looks good Mark - particularly the string spacing without a drill press. There's no way I'd get them that even or straight.
I may have just missed this somewhere, but what do you think made the Cabot's Exterior peel?
I’d be happy if I did that well with my drill press!
Thanks John and Fretworn.
I used this guide that I cobbled up after a youtube 'how to' video.
I'll have to look it up when I get some time and paste it here.
edit: here it is https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5SZA03DVITA
Attachment 32169
The Cabot's was just incompatible with the duplicolor. It just wouldn't bond with it.
I had a similar issue with Ironlak/Feast and Watson wipe-on-poly.
cheers, Mark.
Altered colour scheme.
Attachment 32171
cheers, Mark
Time as passed so quick.
Attachment 32833
Still not 100% happy with it so when time permits I'll probably have more alterations.
cheers, Mark.
Oeee love the look of that, there is just something about those JM's...
What alterations are you thinking about?
Hi RocknRolf I'm still not happy with the finish over the various acts of surgery...Quote:
Originally Posted by RocknRolf
The re-filled tremolo rout and the filled in Jazzmaster style tremolo rout.
Eventually going to require a better quality bridge i.e.
https://www.stewmac.com/Hardware_and...er_Bridge.html
Down-side with that though is 'top-load' strings only...and I went to all that trouble doing string-through holes.
cheers, Mark.
Do you really need roller saddles when there's no trem? The reason they are 'roller' is so that the string spacing can be adjusted to your taste. Which may be useful if it's a non-standard width neck, but it all looks fine with the kit bridge, which should be one of the standard string spacings.
The downside with trying to find a hardtail string-through bridge is finding one where the screw and string holes are the same as on your current bridge. Whilst the fixing screw holes can be plugged and redrilled, if there's too big a difference between the string holes and the mounting holes (the string holes will determine the bridge position), the bridge could end up in the wrong place for good intonation adjustment.
Babicz hardtail bridge is string-through. https://www.pitbullguitars.com/shop/...rdtail-chrome/
Dimensions here: http://www.fullcontacthardware.com/f...dtail-original
Hi Simon.
It's the string spacing that I was concerned about.
You probably can't see in the photo, but I've jammed some veneer between low A and low E.
It is actually a Fender knock-off from ebay and I am thinking of 'upgrading'.
As I said though, it's having done the string-through that's put the brake on it.
(and that I don't have the cabbage either).
The overall body finish is also not up to my expectation.
If I did it yet again, there would probably involve a colour change.
cheers, Mark.
Well, first step is to measure the current string spacing and have a look at what's available.
And then you need to decide whether you can face sanding the body back to bare wood again and re-do the finish.
Yes Simon, I think it should start with a decent quality bridge.
Measuring the current one, string spacing is all over the shop.
I'd probably be going back to almost bare wood as I'll be determined to get a blemish-free finish next time.
cheers, Mark.
P.S. The Wilkinson pickups have been less noisy this time due to copper shielding.
Yet another up-grade to consider....gee it never ends eh?
I was more concerned with the overall E to E string spacing at the bridge. Normally one of two values, 'US or' 'Asian', with the Asian made necks/bridges being slightly narrower by around 2mm.
I need string spacing as I only pluck the strings with my fingers...and don't use a plectrum.
Fortunately not those big sausage fingers some blokes have however.
Current measurement is 5.5 cm across the bridge.
I can live with that.
cheers, Mark.
Quote:
Still not 100% happy with it so when time permits I'll probably have more alterations.
Looks good from my my house Mark! ;)
I hadn't seen this post before so I read it all from the start. When you see a guitar that's finished (as in completed) you never really know what epic journey it may or may not have been through unless someone shares the whole story.
Now you've got me thinking about a JM build now, so thanks for that!
Did you fill in the route on the back as well?
Earlier this year I did a strat that was routed for vibrato and I converted it to a hardtail similarly to your JM. It didn't come out as flawless as I had hoped, but it was a good learning experience. If I do a JM, I think I would also make it a hardtail.
Cheers,
Mick
Ah yes, I had forgotten about all the alterations you've gone through. Would be a shame not to be able to use the string through option, especially at this point. I found out already with building guitars, when you go for one customization it atleast requieres another two custumizations down the line as a result, your's seems to be no different.Quote:
Originally Posted by king casey
Thanks McReed and Rolf.
I'm so far down the track that I've started to forget what was modified.
I did fill in the rear rout...but it's also part of the 'unfinished' to acceptable part.
Despite all precautions is still fairly visible.
Attachment 32845
Next time I'll take to it with 'spray putty' and see if I can make it disappear.
cheers, Mark.
Now I've come full circle.
This was the original idea for a colour scheme.
As my TL was supposed to be this colour (and is now red) I think I'll settle for this.
Attachment 32984
cheers, Mark.
Works for me.
Cheers, Simon.Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
It's going to get several coats of gloss clear but then given a 'matt' treatment.
I've taken to the pickguard with steel wool to give the whole scheme a 'workman guitar'.
Going to stick with the bridge for now as the Babiscz one's are a bit steep for me at the moment.
I was tempted to re-shape the headstock in the 'tele' shape to mimmic the pitbull JTL but I guess that's also a consideration further down the track.
cheers, Mark.
Since copper shielding, I think these pickups will remain for the time being.
Attachment 32986
that makes it the 100th shot of this build.
cheers, Mark
Finally! I think it will remain thus for the forseeable future.
Attachment 33141
It's what my tele wasn't which is a compromise I can live with.
cheers, Mark.
Looks great man.
Hey, love the decal I am going for mine to be named the ~CaseyKat~Quote:
Originally Posted by king casey
Trying to sort the scale length out.
Mine seems to be a coupla mm out on the neck and a considerable amount from 12th to saddle. I am not sure if its simply because the saddle cavity has so much movement in it?
Cool progress.
Just take the measurement from the inside of the nut to the saddle- you want 648mm - I usually just make sure that the high E sits comfortable at that and all the other strings have adjustment back from that point for intonation. You'll have a two post bridge, take the centre screws out of the receivers and wrap masking tape around them till they fit snugly in the post holes, then you can dummy fit the neck and bridge to check it more accurately. The JM kits are pretty much fine for scale length and the post holes a pre drilled anyway. It's only on kits like the TL where you have to drill the bridge holes, or the set neck kits where the neck needs to be accurately located for glueing that your really need to be super careful about scale length. Certainly worth checking, but I'm sure its fine.
Thanks Sonic ...for the comment, and timely advice for Casey.
I was about to start posting my answer but you beat me to it.
Yes, I think the JM-1's have been in production for yonks so it's odd that scale length would be an issue.
Casey (hey great name) I've altered the headstock logo slightly since that shot.
Now that this guitar has evolved through several iterations, I feel 'jazzmaster' no longer fits the description.
Attachment 33205
cheers, Mark.
P.S. I was working on a demo for this guitar until I realised I have already done one :)
That looks awesome, reminds me of my old Fender 70's P Bass in the colour, nice choice.
The pick guard looks awesome. and I love the pickup arrangement.
Most of all, I love the carpet, it looks like you staged it ;)
So was the decal a transfer with a clear background that you cleared over? was it that simple?
Hi Casey. It's clear laser decal. I printed the black outline in reverse. Painted the silver and then applied on the headstock.
I then clear coated a few times over it and then sanded it flat.
BTW I finally got round to a video demo.
http://youtu.be/_LHQXg2km4k
cheers, Mark.
Nice one. I do enjoy a good pit bull sound demo.
Thanks DarkMark.Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkMark
I'm certainly looking forwards to an excellent 'Annylation' demo.
I'm sure it will be an inspiring spectacular.
cheers, Mark.
Looks like the forseeable future has arrived.
Having got used to playing a 7.25" radius neck, I'm in the process of adapting it to my other projects.
I'm part way through doing my Squier Tele. Just awaiting the frets.
Next up will be this one, and I've already removed the frets and marked the centre line for radius therapy.
Attachment 34559
I'll probably use the opportunity to paint it yet another colour.
cheers, Mark.
May be a silly question, but what is the purpose of your centre line?
I have the neck stuck to a sheet of perspex with double sided tape.Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
The perspex is bolted to the desk along with a straight 'L' bracket.
I have a centre line on each end of the sanding block....which is lined up with the line marked on the neck.
Objective is to run the block along the edge of the bracket whilst being centred on the neck.
I keep sanding until the painted line disappears.
At that point the neck has a radius of 7.25".
I used 180 grit sandpaper on the maple neck and it took a couple of hours elbow grease.
The same setup on the rosewood and it was about half an hour.
cheers, Mark
Edit: Here's and image of the setup in action from the Tele-Strat build diary.
Attachment 34560
Ah, I see now.
I asked because I'm going to be doing another re-radius (done 3 already) and I haven't marked a centre line or used a jig of any kind. I do secure the neck to my bench so it doesn't shift around while I'm sanding though.
I just use a radius block and do lots of checking with my gauge as I go. And as all the fretboards have been finished, I can see where the material is coming off by where the finish is left, as well as by the fret markers.
I haven't had any issues doing mine this way, but I can see how your jig could be helpful.
He likes playing middle-of-the-road music. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
Doh!! ...hey that's a term you don't hear much nowadays.Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
Who would be considered 'modern day' MOR?
Anyway Yes McCreed, you come up with your own method of cat skinning and if it works..
I did invest in a longer radius block so I can get both hands on and really give it a work-out.
I think if you keep long sweeps past each end there shouldn't be any unevenness. (is that a word?)
cheers, Mark.
Nowadays, probably Ozzy Osbourne.Quote:
Originally Posted by king casey
What's going on with fretwire?
I did buy some from Alibaba as it was cheap.
Took a friggin age for it to appear in my mailbox though.
Attachment 34571
On ebay it's generally sold in 1.8 metre lengths (so not enough for 2 guitars) starting about $30.
So there's no economy in buying it in lengths.
Meanwhile it's inspired me to fish all the frets discarded thus far out of the bin and use them again.
cheers, Mark.
1.8 metres gets me approx. 1.5 - 22 fret necks (actually 32 frets total).
Including postage, it works out to about $1.78/fret. Considering I used to pay $350-375 for a fret job done by someone else, I don't think that's too bad. If I bought more quantity it would go down, but I don't need to keep that much stocked.
And FWIW, that is US-made fret wire.
Having done a couple of them already I can see there's a hefty labour bill involved getting a professional to do it.
Still, those pre-cut frets from Alibaba represent a fairly attractive deal.
Anyway, I've salvaged the frets that I removed and am in the process of re-fretting the neck.
cheers, Mark.