I was just wondering about how it would look if it was mounted on a slightly wet surface? I'm thinking a thin smear of diluted truoil.
Anyone tried that?
Printable View
I was just wondering about how it would look if it was mounted on a slightly wet surface? I'm thinking a thin smear of diluted truoil.
Anyone tried that?
It's not as clear as decal paper would be, but even that would still be slightly noticeable from some angles. Less the transmitted light (as it's transparent at some angles), than the backing medium reflects light differently to the wood.
Only other way would be Dedman's iron on method where from memory he prints the decal in reverse on grease proof paper and then uses a conventional iron to transfer image onto the headstock, thus only the lettering appears, not the backing. Once dry probably best to apply a very light couple of coats of clear acrylic spray and then back onto the TO if you think it needs a bit more.
Cheers, Waz
On further inspection this morning I wasn't happy with the cut or the placement either so I've removed it. I'd lined it up along the centre-line but the nature of the text (particularly the capital T and L) mean that with the centre aligned the edges look wrong. I'm going to need to play a bit more carefully. This time I shall be printing 4 copies though...
I'm kind of loathe to spend a tenner on decal paper from which I shall use about one square inch but i am approaching the point where I shall have to make a decision.
Cheers folks.
For those playing along at home, don't try this. Whilst it initially seems to give the desired effect, it also causes the ink to run.Quote:
Originally Posted by blinddrew
Which is not the desired effect.
Getting back to the Rothko & Frost decals, suggest giving them a light acrylic spray from on top that way it helps to seal in what has been created. Be careful not to layer things up too much as that does introduce a noticeable edge under the top coats.
From my wipe on poly thread in finishing your guitar.
Think I've got a reasonable take this time. Will have a proper shufti when i get home.
So, I think I'm pretty much there with the finish. Copy-paper polish tomorrow and then I'm looking at gluing it together I think.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/F4...A=w497-h662-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/V0...8=w497-h662-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tj...0=w497-h662-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4O...c=w497-h662-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/u8...M=w497-h662-no
Front of the headstock needs another 3000 rub and a few more coats and the pick guard still need work but we're good to move onto the next stage I think.
About which I am a little nervous.
Looking great, Drew. You will probably want to touch up round the neck join with Tru-Oil, so it might be worth holding off the final polish until after you've done that. The longer you wait as well for the Tru-Oil to harden, the better it will be.
Yep, I have a nice fine-ish paintbrush for the join.
One question that has occurred to me though: when it comes to removing the masking tape from the heel of the neck, is there any risk that it will pull the oil away? Should i make a razor cut along the edge of the tape before trying to remove it?
Wow blinddrew, you must be happy with that finish. Good luck with the neck join.
I think so, need to give it a proper check over in good sunlight tomorrow but I think she's shaping up ok.
The masking tape should peel off easily and you will probably have a slightly raised edge that can be knocked down when doing your final sand and polishing.
Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk
Bonza. Cheers Waz. :)
Your pictures have all gone 'grey no-entry sign' for me now. I could see them earlier.
I never got to see them at all! ☹️Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
Weird, I've done nothing at this end. They're on google's pictures so maybe it's to do with whether/if you're signed in at your end?
I should just sign up to imgur and be done with it.
Indeed you should.
Ok, imgur attempt (then I really must stop prevaricating):
https://imgur.com/LZ7U69H
https://imgur.com/KSOj8z7
https://imgur.com/uYytRY3
https://imgur.com/wyymmpP
https://imgur.com/ZpuUJlE
[EDIT ok, that didn't work at all. Try again]
Right, that didn't work either. Here's a gallery link, I'm off to the garage: https://imgur.com/gallery/Kn3ywSP
Imgur wins again! That is SHINY! I love it mate, very nice job!
Cheers FrankenWashie, and Simon has also informed me of what I'm doing wrong on the linking, so future posts will have embedded pictures.
Now, really, really must get on with it.
Gorgeous level of shininess Drew.
Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk
Cheers Waz. :)
Guitar shaped object:
https://i.imgur.com/DOsJi65.jpg
Cue very nervous drilling of tailpiece holes, earth wire hole, tuner screw holes... and breathe.
But then Glue:
https://i.imgur.com/GcTxnh2.jpg
Aaaand realise that of your three available clamps, actually only one is large enough to fit round the joint. :(
Suck it and see territory.
Awww, it’s even got it’s own bed and blanket. How do you feel about drilling holes in the sound board for a scratch plate now? I like the different coloured timber’s in the heel of the neck. Is that a full bucket of Tru Oil rags?
Edit, the fret board looks like it’s had some treatment, have you Tru oiled that as well?
Well, that'll only be one hole, and it doesn't have to be too precise... ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkMark
Ha! I hadn't noticed that. Almost, there's a few other rags and bits of paper but I have gone through two t-shirts so far. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkMark
I believe Tru Oil rags can self combust upon drying. I don’t know how likely it is or if it’s happened to anyone.
Nice to see it coming together.
I've read that too, but I dump a cup of water in there every couple of days so I reckon we'll be fine.
Think I'll be putting the electrics in tomorrow then having a look at the nut. That might be a bit ugly.
I’ll stay tuned.
I saw what you did there! ;)
Small bits of tru-oil rag won't combust. You need a really big bit soaked in tru-oil or linseed oil to get anything like hot enough for it to catch fire. And unless you've spilt a whole large bottle of the stuff and wiped it up with a whole T-shirt, then that isn't going to happen.
Tru-oil and linseed oil dries by oxidising (which creates heat), rather than evaporation of a solvent (which cools the finish down), but you need a lot of it, insulated by being in the middle of a bundle of rag for the temperature to rise much above room temperature. YouTube videos always show a whole bucketful of soaked rag, which is not a real-life scenario for the kit guitar builder.
Good, I was a bit worried about the bucket being so close to the guitar.
Good to know, thanks Simon.
The guitar abs bucket live on opposite sides of the garage normally but I think we're approaching time for the guitar to move indoors.
Maybe not quite yet actually.
Guitar-shaped object:
https://i.imgur.com/0HILB9v.jpg
But there's a fair bit of work to be done filling these gaps before we get any further:
https://i.imgur.com/94TlnyZ.jpg
In the meantime it still needs:
A couple more coats of 50/50 on the front and back of the headstock.
A few more coats of 50/50, a 3000 sand and then more coats on the scratch-plate.
Electrics in and placed - 'should' be pretty straightforward, would people advice soldering the ground cable to the tailpiece or just relying on friction?
Steel wool on the fretboard to take the shine off (and hopefully make the buggered up finish a bit less obvious).
Attach tuners.
Put the new nut on and then mark, drill and attach the truss-rod cover. This might be a bit awkward as the new bone nut is not as thick as the plastic one so the shelf on which it sits is going to stick out a bit. I'll have to have a fair old play around with things to get this to work neatly I think.
Finally decide if I want the scratchplate (I think I probably do), and if so, bend and drill the bracket, drill the mounting holes, then try and find a small enough nut and bolt in my tool boxes.
You could look around for another bone nut. You can get them in a variety of sizes if you do a bit of searching.
Not sure about soldering to the tailpiece directly. It could be quite lumpy. Maybe solder it to a thin washer that's big enough for the strap pin screw to go through?
Hmmm. Good thinking. Will check aforementioned toolboxes...
Shiny! Nice!
2 steps forward etc...
At some point this week whilst tidying up the next joint I've managed to spill a drip of oil onto the body and it's trickled all the way down the side.
https://i.imgur.com/G28oyfJ.jpg
So this weekend is not going to be about putting the electrics in and starting to look at the nut, it's about sanding and oiling again...
Bummer.
I'm absolutely paranoid about those damn runs as you get near the finish line. So time consuming and spot fixing doesn't always work too well.
Hope it doesn't set you back too much.
It'll just be a day to two, it just shifts things back a week and, to be frank, I'm getting a bit bored with sanding and oiling now! :)