Ok. Hadn’t actually considered it, but I’m sticking with the stained plan.
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Ok. Hadn’t actually considered it, but I’m sticking with the stained plan.
I would almost have said, give it a white flat coat and a matching binding to the body and call it did. It would be a great counterpoint to the darker overall theme.Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkMark
Lighter would make a nice contrast. Maybe not that pale, but maybe an amber tint. Or make two, a dark and a light, and swap them occasionally. People will think you've got two similar guitars!
Maybe I could build two guitars and tell my wife I’m just swapping scratch plates.
+1000! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkMark
With additional hidden text to accomodate for my pithyness
Lots of options really, pale wood, white-to-match-the-binding, aged cream*, amber-to-match-the-burst. I like the shaping as well, I've gone for a stubbier approach to keep the f-hole clear.Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkMark
* not the bovine byproduct, yuck.
Wow, I’ve just seen how binding is attached. I’m going to give that a go on the plate. Acetone/Tarzan grip? I’m leaning towards acetone to avoid glue marks. Anyone with experience/advice is welcome to tell me what I’m getting myself into.
I reckon some people without experience could give you a good hint as well... ;)
I’m glad there is someone else doing one of these builds (with a very different approach) at the same time as me blinddrew. I think you’re going to finish before me and I look forward to seeing the end result.
Really great to see everyone’s suggestions on how they envision the plate. It’s caused me to reappraise my plan and make changes. I’m having a lot of fun.
Doubt it, I've got shed-loads left to do and I'm running out of holiday...
Besides which, I'm deliberately running behind you so I can learn from your efforts! ;)
At the moment I'm getting 1 coat of oil on per day, things don't dry so fast up here. The neck has a dozen coats and is due a sanding tomorrow (1200 grit I think), the body needs another couple of coats before it gets some thou grit. After that we're onto 50-50 coats and working up through the grades. Knobs, scratch plate and truss-rod cover need differing amounts of attention. Pots and cap should arrive in the next couple of days and wiring will be the next fun and games.
Hilarious, I was waiting to hear your pickup and see what you do with your electronics.
Great minds...
... let other people do the thinking. ;)
Pots should be arriving in the next day or so, then we'll see how well they fit my homemade knobs. I was just going to get a wiring diagram off the web, there do seem to be plenty kicking around for a single p90 and two pots. Going to be fun installing everything though, only read about the ground wire through the end block a couple of days ago...
First coat of Tru Oil brushed on. Appears as if the stain has held its position. Wazkelly, you’re a champion! Thanks for the application method.
That's looking schmick already DarkMark. Can't wait to see this finished.
Haha, me too! Thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
Good stuff buddy.Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkMark
Don't worry too much about any brush marks as if it looks ok you can revert to rag application method and once you have 4-6 layers time for a very light wet sand. Gradually as the layers build up TO tends to fill a lot of the low spots and the periodic wet sanding makes sure nothing is getting too far off course.
I’ve got some serious drips lines on it but I’m not too worried about it at this stage, I’m happy to get a thick layer on it. I’ll attach the neck in a couple of days once this layer has dried, once glue has set, turn it upside down and brush on another layer of Tru Oil so gravity takes it the other way to keep the layers even.
Don't let the paint runs get too big as they can be quite difficult to get rid of later on.
I’ve seen binding adhere to timber using acetone. Part of the process involves dissolving chips of binding in acetone to form a slurry used to fill any gaps left between the timber and binding strip. I’m wondering if I could use such a binding/acetone slurry to fill the engraving on my headstock? How acetone reacts to dry Tru Oil will be the concern for me in this experiment. Back to the test scrap.
Neck is attacked. Starting to look like a guitar.
You're wrong. It's starting to look like a very nice guitar indeed. :)
Well thank you sir.Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
Thank you for your inquiry.
Tru-oil is not compatible with other oily products.
Acetone has oil in it. If you use it on top of the Tru-Oil, and then try to layer Tru-Oil on it, it will not dry.
Hope that helps.
Thank you ,
Sandy Ellertson
AA & Customer Support
This is not the answer I was expecting. Does anyone have any practical experience of doing their own binding using acetone and tru oiling over the top? I can’t imagine what you can use to clear coat over binding if this is correct.
That's rubbish. 'Acetone' sold for nail varnish removal normally has oil in it, but pure acetone doesn't. So just use pure acetone, easily available on eBay. It's volatile, so evaporates quickly at room temperature. Give it a day and it will all have evaporated. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acetone
Thanks Simon. Acetone evaporates in seconds. I couldn’t understand what the guy was talking about.
Sounded like BS to me.
Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk
Glad you agree wazkelly.
I couldn’t resist a mock build tonight. Probably should of done it when it first arrived but I would of been none the wiser as to all the bits and pieces. I did see some white scratch plates against black arch tops in some images, but I’m pretty sure I want to go dark.
Some light reading while the finish dries?
Soon I’ll be able to read it by myself.Quote:
Originally Posted by WeirdBits
When did you stop playing bass and take up the guitar? ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkMark
Funny you should say that, it’s actually true.Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
It's always nice to see a happy ending.
Hahaha. You’re going to have the bass union onto us, Simon.
That's a Low Blow (pun intended).Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
Good news, I received my three rolls of differing coloured binding from China today.
Bad news, there was only one roll of binding in the packet.
Good news, it’s the colour I wanted to use for this project.
Mark that up as a score-draw i guess, :)
Big mistake. Acetone strips Tru Oil. Had to sand back the head stock and restain. Impatient and didn’t test it first.
Bummer! Didn't know that, worth filing away for future knowledge.
Good to know if you ever want to strip the Tru Oil off. Live and learn. Hoping for better luck with the scratch plate ‘purfling’.
Let’s try posting that photo again.