Haha, says the guy with almost 5 times my comments!!:pQuote:
Originally Posted by stan
It's quite possible, that's what's in there. I agree that I wouldn't want anything too runny in there, that's the quickest way to a big mess!
Printable View
Haha, says the guy with almost 5 times my comments!!:pQuote:
Originally Posted by stan
It's quite possible, that's what's in there. I agree that I wouldn't want anything too runny in there, that's the quickest way to a big mess!
Maybe a silicone spray. Check out the Schaller website and others and see if they have a product.
Edit. Just did a quick google and this was the first thing that came up.
https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&s...7DS4aidkxgpLnQ
StewMac recommends Vaseline. http://www.stewmac.com/How-To/Online...ar_tuners.html
A nice Silicone Grease would probably work well too, you can get it in Tubes at Fishing Tackle Stores.....
Whatever you use, use it sparingly.....
Nooooo! As the StewMac article says, avoid any silicone product on guitars at it's almost impossible to get the silicone off the finish.
It's a great grease, but it's too easy to get it on your guitar.
Fair Call...Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
It's not like they're high speed precision gears.....
My Schallers are dry as far as I can tell, and have been for thirty years, and still in perfect condition.....
It's not like they actually get a lot of use and are constantly turning where some lubricant would be required. It can help make stiff old gears run a bit smoother, but as long as they are working smoothly to start with, probably best left as is.
Fair points guys, thanks for the input.
Finally!!!
The neck has arrived.
Surprisingly, the neck is primarily soft pine, so I'll have to treat it with kid gloves. I don't think it's maple, but I don't know how to check.
The fret board has some grain through it, and looking at it from underneath at the neck join, it doesn't look to have been dyed, but it may have some form of finish over it on top.
Fret markers are nice and straight, but they are not staying.
Head stock thickness is slightly thicker than the one supplied with my PBG LP-1S @ 16mm. That's a good start, but will still need some veneers for my plans.
The frets will need dressing, and on a quick inspection, there doesn't seem to be any low or high frets to worry about. They are a little sharp at the corners, so that should be taken care of with the dressing.
Plastic nut will be replaced. I'm thinking a Graphtec one.
Attachment 18148
Attachment 18149
Attachment 18150
Attachment 18151
Attachment 18152
Now I can finally get to doing something!
I was up in Brisbane last weekend and a mate up there has a Yamaha Silent Guitar, didn't get to have a strum but it looked very well put together
Yeah, they are a quality guitar, but at around $1k, they are certainly getting up there in price.
I haven't added it all up, but I think I'm at the $200 mark on materials. I still need the veneer and body timber, but I'm expecting that to all come in under $50.
Thread moved by request :)
Doesn't look like pine to me. I don't think pine would have enough strength or stability to make a neck from. It could be a maple or it might be birch, or wood from a multitude of other alternative trees available in the Asian country where it was made. The pattern looks like the pattern on the top and back of my ES-3, which is supposed to be all basswood (though I'm sure it's got a veneer).
Yep, I agree with ya Simon.
The only pine I know of that would be stable enough for a neck is Australian Celery Top, which is rare as and also difficult to obtain with a knot free dead straight grain so I doubt it would be made from that :D
Celery Top like Huon Pine, is not really a true Pine.....
Thanks again DB, most appreciated........It's all lies they say about you!!Quote:
Originally Posted by dingobass
OK, that sounds better. It's a very light weight timber, which is why I immediately thought Pine, and the colour is also very light.Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
I just took another look at the neck, and tried to dig my fingernail into the top corner. It's surprisingly dense. Nothing at all like I thought it would be.Quote:
Originally Posted by dingobass
I knew Celery Top wasn't technically a pine, but I'm surprised to hear that about huon.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hobastard
The group of guys I play with are very close with Chad Morgan. Every time he comes to Tassie for some shows, they are there with him, and my mate Mick plays on stage with him occasionally. Chad is actually an avid guitar builder, and recently grabbed a slab of Huon Pine the last time he was here, and is planning to make a Tele bodied guitar from it.
He also built one out of a solid piece of Redgum. I have photo of me with the guitar, and it weighs a tonne!! I think it is on my Dad's camera. I'll try and get a copy of it and share it here.
I'm thinking I've been too smart for my own good. It dawned on me this morning that an LP bolt on neck is much narrower across the nut than an acoustic guitar, and the scale length is different also.
Another difference is the string spacing as a result of the wider neck. So i got down on the floor and roughly measured the distance between the nut and 12th fret. Then doubled it to get a rough idea of where the bridge will go. I may be alright with the string spacing at the bridge as it is pre-compensated.
So, taking this line of thought a little further, does anyone know of a string spacing calculator so I can work out where to drill my holes for the ferrules?
Also, does anyone know if there is a recommended distance from the bridge to the ferrules? I'm thinking it can't be too close as the break angle would be too sharp.
Thanks in advance!
Same order (Pinales) but a different family (Podocarpaceae) according to the Minister for War and Finance who is our resident Horticulturist.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hobastard
She always blows my mind when I ask her what is such and such a plant and she rattles off the Latin name :D
So, taking this line of thought a little further, does anyone know of a string spacing calculator so I can work out where to drill my holes for the ferrules?
Also, does anyone know if there is a recommended distance from the bridge to the ferrules? I'm thinking it can't be too close as the break angle would be too sharp.
Thanks in advance
Generally speaking, all you need to do is work out what string spacing at the bridge is comfortable for you (as I assume it for your own enjoyment), but take into account the width of your neck as you don't want the strings running off the edge of the fingerboard.
When you have determined this, you can either evenly space the stings or you can use a compensated spacing rule, such as the one supplied by Stewmac.(but only if you are ultra pedantic and or anally retentive) :D
As for break angle distance, no closer than 10mm ish to the saddle and you will be fine.
Thanks DB, most appreciated.
Lagarostrobos franklinii is a species of conifer native to the wet southwestern corner of Tasmania, Australia. It is often known as the Huon pine or Macquarie pine, although it is actually a podocarp, not a true pine. Wikipedia
Phyllocladus aspleniifolius, commonly known as the celerytop pine, is an endemic gymnosperm of Tasmania, Australia. It is widespread and common in Tasmania, with the most abundance in the western highlands
Aside, my window and door frames are Celerytop... :)
I was fortunate to get my sweaty hands on a massive chunk of Celerytop a few years back.
Managed to get enough out of it to build a Baritone Jaguar style from it.
The rest will slowly get used for making boxes and stuff.
It is an amazing timber, for a relatively hard wood it works beautifully.
No wonder if was a highly prized timber for cabinet makers and I believe boat builders as well.
I have a pet timber miller in Tasweigia who is on the lookout for me, my wish list is for Huon, Celery top and King Billy.....
There are a couple of places around my way that still sell odd bits of it, but they're not cheap.....
Hmmm, already hit my first stumbling block. I must have misread the dimensions of my bridge, or just measured it incorrectly, but the width of timber needed is not going to be enough. I'll need a minimum of 100mm to be able to use this bridge.
I've roughed out the design on some cardboard using the outline of my neck, and my LP laid down as an outline. What the final outline looks like will change no doubt, this is just an idea for scale etc.
I've run a couple of faint lines for my two E strings, and at first I was thinking the string spacing would be too close for the ferrules on the back, but they will be fine. At this stage, I have the top mount ferrules sitting about 30mm behind the bridge.
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/u...psmaxnqj5m.jpg
I'll do some templates of the head stock today so I can work out a design, as well as spacing for the tuning machines so I can get as straight string pull as I can.
More to come!! It's great to be back in the saddle again!!
Alrighty, I have my timber, some 65x30mm Pine. I'll cut four lengths to give me a 120mm x 65mm wide body. Slightly wider than I wanted, but they didn't have the 65mm x 25mm Tassie Oak that they advertised on their website.
So, the next question is glue choice. I have this Selley's Aquadhere, is that suitable, or is there something else that I should be using like Liquid nails etc?
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/u...psyhhtt8w3.jpg
Any advice on the glue suggestion guys?
Thanks in advance!
i dont see why the glue wouldn't work, you wont want to ever steam it apart again so no need for titebond. The only concern i'd have would be strength over time - dont know if this is good enough or there is something better, like titebond 2 or 3
Gibson use titebond 50 to glue bits together...
Titebond bro. Accept no substitutes.
Also, happy birthday!
Thanks Pabs, most appreciated!! Sucks to be at work though!!Quote:
Originally Posted by pablopepper
Ok, so Titebond 50 is the preferred one to use then?Quote:
Originally Posted by stan
Titebond original is fine.
Also, assuming this beast is having an undersaddle piezo pickup you may want to push the string through holes closer to the bridge.
Around the 10mm ish mark is good.
You need to have a decent amount of of downwards pressure on the saddle for the piezo to work correctly, especially on the bottom E string.
Pic shows the distance I have found that works for me.
Excellent, thanks for that DB!
Titebond Original it is.
Only one problem, the nearest stockist is over 2hrs away!
Gorgeous guitar DB, and a great picture. I now have a new desktop pic on my work computer......
That bottle of Sellys is interior grade PVA glue, so it's not fully waterproof and you could steam it apart if you ever need to. Like Titebond, normal PVA forms a stronger bond than the wood itself, so it will certainly hold the wood together. What I don't know it if the acoustic properties of Titebond are better than normal PVA in transmitting vibrations.
One alternative that you might be able to get locally, is hide glue (which Gibson used to use, and still do for their historically correct high-end guitars). You need to mix the beads with water and then heat it up, so it's a bit messy. But it does form a hard join that is supposedly better at transmitting vibrations than Titebond.
Doodling, doodling, doodling!
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/u...psut5eqry5.jpg
I'm not too sure about this design because of it's width.
I'll do another slimmer version tonight. I also want to play around with the lower part of the cut out.
The more I look at it, the less I like it!
You might also want to consider how easy it is going to be to tidy up in and around those tight corners. It may be less fiddly to go with a more open radius in there and that may change the whole visual dynamic of the lower curve.Quote:
Originally Posted by Zandit75
With the angle of the strings to the pegs over the nut, is that curve going to create interference issues?
Yep, all of those things are going through my head right now, especially the string interference.
I'll try addressing all of those things with the re-design.
I'll look back at the designs I originally posted for more inspiration!
Draw it up on Tracing paper over the top of your Paddle Headstock, you can overlay other sheets of tracing paper and make tweaks to the base design to see what you think.Quote:
Originally Posted by Zandit75
If you had a 4-5mm radius on those corners and then ran your curve between them it would look pretty schmick I think. You could also look at turning that curve into a bevel, to avoid any string clearance issues. But that might not play well with your pointy design cues.
Yep, understood. I actually have some tracing paper, so I'll give that a shot too!Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
The bottom curve is going to change completely I think. A bevel would be hard to do on the existing curve shown there, especially around the nut, and getting a smooth transition.
We'll see what tonight brings!!