looking fantastic H !
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looking fantastic H !
very slick result
No you haven't missed the point, yes I only sand the binding.Quote:
Originally Posted by UpperCaseH
try getting an eraser putting double sided tape on one end and sticking some sandpaper onto it. verrrry accurate.
I also sand my inlay dots with it;)
That makes sense, I'll give it a try! I was picturing trying to sand a tiny line with the paper held in my fingers.
Took the masking off the front of the head, eventually got rid of all the tape residue, and am just about ready to try staining it. The stain should wipe off the clear neck final coats on the sides, right? I'll mask off anyway, just wondering.
Hi H, worth masking the sides of the headstock, the stain may wipe off the clear but if not done immediately may not !
Plugged the holes with earplugs so nothing ran through, taped the sides, little bit of bleed through the tape at one corner wiped straight off with a damp rag.
Ended up with nice crisp lines. Colour's fairly different from the body, hope if comes up a bit with the intensifier, but I'm not sure I want to do more stain coats as it's already pretty dark.
I guess the body veneer and neck are different kinds of maple? Colour difference would bother me if they were right next to each other, but since they're at opposite ends of the neck I'm not worried.
http://i.imgur.com/kSlXlaF.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/kWNY1f1.jpg
looks great H. Wow that's a new tip earplugs to plug tuner holes ! I'd say different types of maple will take the stain differently. See how the headstock looks after couple of intensifiers hopefully will brighten and match the body closer.
great idea. You just can't avoid learning things here :)
I was gonna cut some corks down but I found the earplugs first and they looked about the right size.
How do you guys normally do it? I thought if I just taped the far side of the holes and managed to get a run it'd bleed through pretty easily before I got a chance to take the tape off and clean up.
I've not had to do it , but I now know how I will do it when I need to :)
good job on the headstock, nicely masked, and genius tip with earplugs
I had run through on my application of timbermate. I ended up using some cotton buds squeezed into the holes for the stain. Worked well.
Got some intensifier on the headstock, and while it's getting more vivid, it's not approaching the body colour. Gonna look good though :)
First final coat on the body today, I might have overworked it, but we'll see how it dries.
http://i.imgur.com/BqAYJG8.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/7Rj4vIV.jpg
That's really looking nice H well done
Have to agree that is looking pretty good.
A bit more stain & intensifier should darken up the headstock and don't worry that you have already applied some intensifier as it will still take more stain.
Not sure I want to darken the headstock more. The mismatch is in the actual colour rather than the depth, the head looks a little "bluer" than the body, if that helps describe it. Photos aren't really showing what I mean, but it doesn't look too bad now when it's in the assembled position, only when you hold the head up right next to the body.
If I do a similar thing again, I'll have a go at veneering the headstock. For this one I think it'll be OK as-is.
OK, the face of a headstock has grain that is very tight and also being very hard and shiny would not have helped either.
I have done 3 necks the same colour as the body and it worked well on all but the Tele where my headstock came out darker than the body, but probably more noticeable to myself than anybody else.
In the better light this morning I managed to get a picture that shows the difference (although they look a little less different in person)
http://i.imgur.com/hGv88pc.jpg
It doesn't seem to me that adding more stain to the head will bring it closer to the bright firetruck-y red of the body, but if it will, I'd be happy to have a go at it.
Edit: also, I noticed that I've got stain on the plastic nut that won't easily come off. I was gonna leave the plastic in place on the grounds that it was cheaper, but since this one's "ruined" now I'll just "have" to get something else :)
Damn, don't you hate it when you just "have" to have something else. That really sucks!!:rolleyes:
Its quite a slippery slope isn't it? A plastic nut becomes a bone one, the PBG standard tuners get changed out for Grovers or Sperzels, and before you know it, you've changed your fretboard for enchanted ebony, the fretwire is made from recycled Stealth bomber, you've fitted pickups hand wound by Gypsy maidens under a full moon and all of your wiring is gold, wrapped in push back sheathes of braided unicorn hair. At least that's what my other half assumes when she sees the receipts.Quote:
Originally Posted by Zandit75
That's gold Washie!
The Gypsy Maiden hand wounds would probably still be less expensive than a standard set of SD high outputs.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dedman
Back on topic, are you going to cut your own bone nut H or have a DB special done up?
Love it.Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
I reckon I'll have a go at cutting a bone nut. I've ordered a couple of cheapy blanks on ebay and I'll see how it goes. Can always get one made up if it turns out I can't do it.
Yeah, its one of the things that i've been meaning to attempt, but i have to get a satisfactory finish result before i get down to nitty gritty details. I have all the gear I just haven't got to it, yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by UpperCaseH
Haha, checked my email and apparently I've ordered a couple of pre-shaped nuts from China for about $6 each. Could have sworn I bought blanks. Supposedly they're bone, and I hope they're not terrible. Thankfully I'm only out 12 bucks if I end up with the wrong thing. Don't drink and ebay.
In better news, last night I got my horrible printer working long enough to pop out a page of decals to test with, and tested a couple out on some scrap.
http://i.imgur.com/cX8TYZJ.jpg
Quote:
Originally Posted by UpperCaseH
LOVE IT! You could get your inlay on and do some crossed axes or Norse Runes as fret markers
what a cool logo H, will there be enough room on the headstock for it ?
glad that Health and safety won't be on your case - tuner holes have adequate hearing protection still hahah
After I made the logo (after I remembered how to do vector graphics) I estimated the size I'd need and printed it out on paper in 5% size increments (so, 100%, 95%, 90%, etc) down to 70%, cut those out, and held them up to the template I used to cut out the headstock (made 3 of those in case I tore or lost them).
This is what I'll use - 80% of the size I estimated. It'll sit a little lower and to the left on the real thing, but it fits!
http://i.imgur.com/tFN7qb1.jpg
nice one H, I was worried your test logo looked too big but you have resized to fit, well done
It's the right size decal, I've just inadvertantly created a forced-perspective photo. The test piece is only about an inch across where the decal is, and is probably 8-10 inches closer to the lens than the neckl in the background (looks like it's leaning on the amp, but it's held in my hand).
Got some spare time today after lunch, so decided to try waxing the fretboard. spent half an hour going over it with steel wool, then more than two hours ragging the wax on and off. On wasn't hard. Probably 1 1/4 hours of rubbing with a clean cloth brought me to here:
http://i.imgur.com/hajCQrx.jpg
Little thick? I thought I'd used the tiniest amount, just barely enough that you could tell it was on there. Feels very slightly grippy on my fingers. Might need to get a buffing attachment for the drill, because my hands are killing.
looks good H. You will need another one or 2 applications of the wax closer to when it's ready to assemble so the wax really soaks in
Lucky it's not Rosewood as that literally drinks it into the open grain and still looks dry a few days later.
Know what you mean about the excess elbow grease required. Suggest going to Supercheap Auto for some of the micro fibre polish cloths for cars as that is what I mainly used for hand buffing the body and back of the neck plus a smaller one did the trick on the fretboard after having a round or two with bits of an old T shirt to take off most of the solidified wax.
Hey H what wax do you speak of...And where does one obtain such product??
One of my goals for this build was to (where possible) use only components and finishes from the pitbull website, so it's Dingotone guitar wax from the finishes page here http://www.pitbullguitars.com/dingotone/
Its a lot easier with the buffing attachment for the drill H. :)
Since starting the colour coats, every individual step has felt like it only brought me a very, very small way towards finishing.
This one was one of the smallest, but felt like a much bigger step. Decal went on, first clear coat on top.
http://i.imgur.com/iW8EIsG.jpg
With a name like Redbeard I have a mental picture of a Viking or maybe a Scotsman in my mind?
From that angle the red on the headstock face came out looking good.
Cool headstock logo
Looks like it's my day to ask a million questions!
This is the second final coat after a week and a bit of curing time. I don't even know what the marks are. They're more present around the edges, not so much towards the center of the guitar, and none on the back and sides, they're confined to the quilted maple top.
Did I put the final coats on too thin? Or did I not prep well enough? Either way, is there something I can do about these marks? I guess a grain fill at the start would have taken care of them?
Also, should I give it a light steel wool between final coats? I didn't between 1 and 2 and the marks became obvious on the second coat.
http://i.imgur.com/UVpELZp.jpg