Nah Wokka, she's 90% cured.
With hindsight, I should've left it laying flat instead of hanging it.
I reckon it's going to be near impossible to flatten it without going through the colour somewhere. All advice/suggestions eagerly welcomed.
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Nah Wokka, she's 90% cured.
With hindsight, I should've left it laying flat instead of hanging it.
I reckon it's going to be near impossible to flatten it without going through the colour somewhere. All advice/suggestions eagerly welcomed.
I have no idea why, but DingoTone doesn't seem to like this guitar.Quote:
Originally Posted by dingobass
At least the DT on build #2 is behaving.
wow Muzza you must have applied it way too thick to get those runs.
I usually inspect a build if I have hung it up to cure within 5 or 10 mins to make sure there are no runs.
Think the only way is to carefully sand back the dark burst, it will be much harder to hide where it has run onto the nullarbor ochre section so I think it will need more staining after the sand back
I wonder if you could, very carefully, scrape the worst of the runs semi-flat. Risky, but may be worth a try.
Hmmm. That doesn't sound too un-doable. Might give that a crack. It would mean less sanding, therefore less chance of rubbing through.Quote:
Originally Posted by WeirdBits
Muzz,
I got some runs on my last intensifier coat because I applied it too thick and hung it like you.
I gently sanded it in one direction on the runs with 600 then 1200 then re-applied a very thin coat.
So far its drying fantastically! fingers crossed.
Hi Muzz, agree that this beast seems to have a DT curse hovering over it. All prior suggestions should work but easy does it as it might not take much effort to completely stuff things up from here.
Well I took Weirdbits suggestion to task and it seems to have knocked the worst of it off. Luckily it was only about 80 - 90% cured, so it was still softer than the underlying coats.
I did, unfortunately, put a few light scuffs/scratches on the surface, but it feels a million percent better under my fingers than it did this afternoon. Looks like I threw it in a tub of water with a cat though!
Tomorrow I'm going to hit it with some 600 wet, then 1200 wet. Then two more THIN coats of intensifier. Hopefully start applying finish coats before say, August?
How the heck do people finish their builds in two weeks?
Cheating! I think the quickest of my three builds was still about 4 months.Quote:
Originally Posted by Muzza
To answer the question of how do folk finish in two weeks?
Rush through, take no care and end result is a crap guitar that is only useful as a cricket bat.
Well not ideal, but considering my frame of mind yesterday, it's come off better than expected.
Attachment 10884 Attachment 10885
The Nullabor Ochre seems to have come through pretty much unscathed, but I've gone through the Black Stump pretty thoroughly in a few places.
I've put on another THIN coat of intensifier to ascertain how well the Ochre fared, but I'm going to have to break out the Feast Watson on the black.
The weird thing is, I've put on heaps more coats of black than ochre, but I only sanded through the black...
Hey, no fair! Both my cricket bats took months and months to finish! ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by dingobass
cheers,
Gav.
looking good Muzza hang in there
haha your cricket bats Gav both come up a treat, shows you it's worth taking your time with the finish
I mentioned the neck humbucker mount rings not fitting the high arch on this model. (Page 2 post #16 & #19)
I manufactured one using the supplied ring and adding material with strips from a spare ring with acetone, but I'm not happy with the result, so I bought another 'bridge' mounting ring, as it has enough 'meat' to reshape it.
I used the one I manufactured as a template to scribe the arcs and these photos show just how high the arch is on this model - higher than an LP.
This first image is taken from the bridge side - the supplied mounting ring on top. The bottom one shows the arc scribed on a bridge mounting ring, ready to shape.
Attachment 11059
This image is taken from the neck side. Again, supplied ring on top.
Attachment 11060
I'd be interested to know if anybody has built a PBG version of a PRS-1TS to see if they had a similar issue.
Hey Muzza that is a lot of curvature going on there.
I have seen all sorts of Gibbo style PUP rings on eBay and also Realparts website here on the Sunny Coast but not sure if they allow for that much of a curve?
You could always go top loaded like I ended up doing on the EX-1.
OK, question time.
What can I use to remove masking tape residue and not affect the DT intensifying coat right next to it?
No idea what is best but it could be worth a shot at using a fresh piece of the same masking tape placed over the top of the residue and then lifted off. Repeat a few times and you might just be surprised at the results. Works the same with Blue Tack too.
Thanks Waz, but that was ineffective.
As there were no more suggestions forthcoming, I just took to it with some turps. It worked a treat - didn't affect the adjacent DT intensifying coats at all.
Even BETTER news... the first finish coat has now been applied!
Woo hoo! I'm on a roll. I should be playing this thing by September!
Naptha (lighter fluid) works a treat as well
I'm BAAAAAACK!
I finally got around to moving my builds a tiny tad closer to completion.
The burst on this build has gone completely tits-up after it was looking so good back in April. Sometimes you've just got to accept that it is what it is and move on toward finishing the bloody thing.
Here are the the latest pictures.
The body...I'm really disappointed with the burst, as mentioned above. I'm just going to continue to apply a few hundred coats of finish until it's so shiny you won't notice the crappy burst.
Attachment 15763
The headstock... again, lots of disappointment with the veneer and the way it took the stain. Disaster after disaster. But... it is what it is...
Attachment 15764
Finally, a positive - the only one...:-(
I really like the pattern in the wood on the back of the neck. Ironic that the best feature of the guitar is on the back...
Attachment 15765
I hate to say it but it might look a lot better being all black. Or else do what I did on my ES-3 build, where my first sunburst top ended up looking rather like yours and so I took it all back to bare wood and started again.
Headstock doesn't look to bad in the photo to me, especially once you get some tuners and a logo on.
I'd drill your tuner holes before you apply any clear finish, just in case something goes wrong and the finish cracks round a hole or the drill bit slips etc.
I hear ya!
I'm going to try to take it back to bare wood first. If I don't go through the veneer, I'll try the burst again. If I do go through, it's a black guitar.
Dude, I've no idea. The EXA-1 build has been going nearly a year, the SV-1 since August and the LP kit has 2 weeks on it so far, which has been nothing but sanding and pondering.Quote:
Originally Posted by Muzza
At least you will be able to see that best part when playing it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Muzza
Very fine wet sanding should strip the DT off fairly quickly and not harm the top except for too much moisture perhaps? Wiping excess water off every couple of passes should help. Probably just need to work mostly on the areas from 3cm to 4cm in from binding edges through to the brown middle bit rather than strip all the way back to begin with. Is it the same on the back? If so, start on the back first to test this theory or do a bit of experimenting.Quote:
Originally Posted by Muzza
Good luck mate and keen to see how it turns out.
Lucky I've still got some sandpaper. And I thought the majority of the heavy sanding was over... (yes FrankenWashie, it WAS!)
Oh well. Still got a way to go.
Attachment 15899
The back is solid black Waz.
None more black. It is hard work, I know, but it will be worth it in the end.
Hi Muzza, good to see you are back on the tools.Quote:
Originally Posted by Muzza
If the back looks alright probably best left alone to save you from even more sanding. How far are you planning to go on the top?
I never had any intention of touching the back Waz. I've gone as close to the edge as I intend to. Just got to get the orange out of the flame and try to 'pop' it a little better this time.
I'll see how the refinish on the top goes... I may have to redo the headstock face to match.
Looks like it'll have to go in next year's non PBG GOTY...
Good to hear Muzza. For the popping maybe more & more layers of the middle colour might work rather than reintroducing additional black.
If it takes until next year all good as there is no race on here.
If its any consolation on the sanding, I feel your pain.Quote:
Originally Posted by Muzza
I have an LP body and neck to grain fill then sand, a base colour coat on an SV body to wet sand, A sticky resinous mess to sand off The FrankenWashie and an Ash TLA body to prep sand before I see how badly I can outsmart myself with it. You will be finished sanding well before I am.
Don't bet on it...Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie