Headstock re-shaped
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Headstock re-shaped
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Tru oil over nitro
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Oh....and new reading material
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time to start a book review thread Andy
great progress Andy, you have really learnt alot of new skills since your first build. New headstock shape looks great and MOP fret markers. How did the tru oil go over the nitro no drama ?
I've got a copy of that 1001 guitars book, great read and will give you some great ideas for a new shape for your future scratchy axe !!
Hi Andy, wondering if you ever work at your day job considering how many axe projects you currently have on the go.
Looks like a great book, and naturally they put one of the best ones on the front cover. A 12 stringer Riccy is on my wish list and may just be the number one reason I have slowed down on builds whilst trying to stash some coins aside to afford one.
Amazed, surprised and delighted that TO over Nitro worked for you on this makeover.
Well about that TO over Nitro. I got a bit eager in testing a patch, It buffs up nicely, however, i forgot how thin the coats are and ended up sanding right through in places. it was alright though because i was using the higher grades of micro mesh and it didn't hurt the nitro underneath. The second pic is after a quick polish and buff on that horn. then I went and sanded through :(
There are some absolutely stunning guitars in that book...most of which I have never seen before! Why am I not surprised that you got that book Wokks!
@ Andy40 That Strat of yours is looking good, the headstock shape looks 70's-ish, can't wait to see it back in action again, my Marshall amp should be back home from being fixed today so I'm in a pretty up-beat mood, will post some new pics of it later on today, also, I might be getting the new bridge for my Headless Guitar in the post today too, if not, definitely next week, so I'll be able to make some more progress in finishing it off.
sanded down MOP dots prepared fret board and Dingo Waxxxxiness
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Nice job and a very effective visual upgrade
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Looking really nice.
Why the tru oil over nitro, interested ...
Hi stan, Good question. As it was my first build I botched the nitro job. I love the colour but disliked the finish. It was bumpy, weak (as nitro is) and not very glossy.
I had good results of tru oil on my LP-1SS and used the layers to smooth out the bumpiness of the spalted maple and gave it a flat smooth glossy finish.
Don't get me wrong, it took the better part of 4 - 5 months.
Though i could replicate that here.
Pabs was right...Tru oil...no good...botched it up
I tried to fix it with poly.....stuffed that too...
Ended up burning right through into the nitro colour....
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Damn, oh well time to sand down and a re-paint (going acrylic this time using Phrozin's suggestion from supercheap)
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oh man, nothing hurts like having to refinish - i know your pain
:( bummer Andy. I'm glad you can see a bright side about the new colour.
bummer Andy, been there done that many times. Oh well a lesson learnt the hard way. New auto paints should come up nice
Ah yes, fun with finishes. Attempt three so far with the EXA-1 back to bare wood and start again. I know your pain Andy, you are not alone.
Hey Andy,
What kind of acrylic paints did you get from Supercheap?
I guess white is the primer, blue the colour, and then a clear top coat. What kind of primer did you get?
They don't really mention spraying on wood on their product description! :-)
Cheers
If it's any consolation, I'm going to be doing some re-finishing work on my Gold Standard Strat this fortnight cause the finish I had on it can be easily scratched-off with a fingernail, I'm going with my original plan of spray-painting the body a solid gold colour, then clear-coat it with White Knight Clear Gloss Lacquer, feel free to check out the updates I posted in the thread mate.
In the words of Elton John (almost)...I'm still sandin' yeah yeah yeah!
Fist load of sanding done, timbermated and sanding of timbermate ;)
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nothing to see here, move along
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ps1620643b.jpg
I bet that girl is just following standard operating-procedures as set out in the 00 field manual....hahahaha.
Ha ha good one deddy.
mmmm rich creamery timbermate
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i am not sure the enamel will respond to polishing very well on a guitar enamel can be a real bitch to get it looking like a acrylic or a 2k refinish, spray can can give a real doggy look if your not on your A game as the fan on the can sprays a little too narrow and can promote runs be interesting to see how you go with that DR
I'd probably agree with that phrozin. I put enamel on my semi-hollow body, its lookin ok but its a bit hard to get out all the little polishing scratches.
These auto paints (which i think are the same ones you used on that cash converters strat) are acrylic and the nozzle spray is awesome.
Quick Update
Managed to get the undercoats done, color coats done and a couple of clears on!
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Wow, that is a much lighter blue than before. Looking good.
Gotta love those early 1980's floor tiles in the background (or were they late 1970's?)
Yeah its metallic blue waz.
I think the previous owner (there was only one) put them in probably early 90's
Someone's had a makeover :o
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Ooooh, so sexy now.
nice, it looks grreat
@ Andy40 That Strat is looking great now mate, the Metallic Blue you used looks a bit like the Metallic Blue I'm going to be using on my HotRod Strat.
looks sweet as Andy good job, I need to revisit about 50 odd of my builds should keep me busy for a while hahah
Thanks guys. all set up this morning and intonated. For me, I think I have the entire set up as near perfect as i can. That Wilkinson bridge is a dream to intonate.
Only one issue, (mainly for Ponch) once the tremolo springs are in place, they protrude about a .000015mm where they enter the block, the guitar body is slightly not thick enough. you can play no worries without the back plate, but I just did a makeshift "gasket" with some electrical tape so that back plate doesn't interfere with the strings.
More photos to come!
There's another way you could fix that, what you do is you use a needle file to file a slight groove over each of the holes that the Trem Springs hook into, this will enable the springs to sit below the surface of the sustain-block (the big piece of metal that the springs hook into) and this will increase the clearance between the springs and the cover for the trem-spring route, I'll post a drawing to show what it should look like shortly.
Here we go, hope this helps:
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Alternatively you can cut out that section of the back plate to accept the trem block that is protruding which is what I do on all strats to make things easier to reload strings anyway.
I think Docs idea might work. Whenever i can put it down for a sec I'll take the back plate off and post a photo.