that orange looks excellent Pabs, can't beat orange and black theme like the hemi Chargers !
@ Andy you would have to sand pretty heavily to sand through a spalted cap are probably 2-3 times thicker than these paper thin quilt tops
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that orange looks excellent Pabs, can't beat orange and black theme like the hemi Chargers !
@ Andy you would have to sand pretty heavily to sand through a spalted cap are probably 2-3 times thicker than these paper thin quilt tops
Just received a Flame Maple Top Tele from DIY closing down sale and the cap looks as thin as two sheets of paper, maybe not even that thick. After seeing how easy Pabs went through I am considering just staining the top without sanding and then load it up with plenty of TO acting as a clear grain filler and then wet & dry sand with 1500 grit wet after about 6 or more coats. Just did same Wet & Dry sanding on both Explorers on the weekend and at that grade grit you don't lose too much of the finish already laid down. Came up like glass and ready for a few more layers building them up towards a final polish.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy40
sounds like a wise plan Waz, I wouldn't sand the veneer at all
Thanks Woks. Everywhere I read it all seems to end in tears as the caps are so thin.
Seems someone might have cleaned up (thrown out) about $60 worth of pickguard blanks I had stashed at my workshop. Bugger. :(
EDIT: Oil stage is done and curing. If I can sort a pickguard alternative, it should be going together this weekend!
what Pabs, one of your co-workers through out pickguard blanks, has the bin been emptied ?
so aren't you using the provided pickguard ? is it black or do you want another colour ?
That's about it Woks. Bin was emptied over a week ago. Long gone.
I just wanted a plain 3 ply black/white/black, alas I got the bare bones option kit therefore no supplied pickguard.
bummer Pabs, hope there was no mirror pickguard blanks tossed out. Hope you gave that person a right bollocking !
nice, black/white/black pickguard will look cool
http://i.imgur.com/9mtif5Z.jpg
That'll do.
looks awesome Pabs, did you need to route the bridge pup cavity north 5 or so mm on this kit ?
you going the speed dials on this one ?
mmm... Jaffa.
Oh Pabs, that looks killer! Great colour combo
I just love orange Teles. Great job Pabs, it looks sensational.
shame the quilt didnt work out but damn that looks hot
Nice save Pabs, that looks really good.
Yep it was about 5mm, and those are top hats. Like this...Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
http://g03.a.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1PkxxI...ent-guitar.jpg
Cheers guys, but it seems I might have been a bit hasty. I was trying out DB's suggestion of going with fewer coats of tru oil, but that has come unstuck.
Yesterday, I had some spare time, so I got stuck into matting the finish down with steel wool. Everything was going well, I was very happy with the result, it looks great. A bit later I started shielding the cavities, and let me tell you it was a stinky hot and humid night in Brissie last night, so I was sweating quite a bit. Finished up and looked down at my shirt, it was orange. Then I looked at my arms....orange. And my hands and a big streak across my forehead, all orange. Fail. More top coat required. Back to the drawing board so to speak.
spewing Pabs, how many TO coats had you applied and how long did the last coat cure for ?
good lesson hey not to work on an almost finished axe when you are sweating badly
I just checked the Brisbane weather observations lastnight and it sat on around 90% humidity all night and peaked at 92%
6 coats with one week cure.
And if I can't sweat on a guitar, it is no good to me. Lol.
ok Pabs, they must have been thin coats then. These days I take DB's tips and let the body and neck hang and cure for minimum 2 weeks preferably 3 weeks. That's why everyone needs at least 5 builds on the go LOL
Last one I did 20 coats with one week cure and it was fine. I do do very thin coats. Must have burned through too much with the steel wool. Shame really because it looks ace.
I would love to have 5 or 6 builds going, but I have neither the space or the money to be doing that. :P
yeah ok Pabs, maybe in humid weather the TO needs longer to cure. I thought 6 thin coats would be enough.
20 coats is a bit overboard. Can see DB shaking his head hahah
Nah it's been pretty nice the last week, it's only been humid for the last 2 days. Just need more.
It was a stinker last night, Pabs! It's not good if the guitar is sweating on you!
Indeed, Swanny. Basically swimming today. Hopefully we don't get smashed by this 'supercell' that's been predicted this afternoon!
She's looking really amazing Pabs. Nothing like an orange Tele! You and Andrew have given be the bug ;). LOve the contrast with the black too. Looking forward to the final unveiling!
cheers,
Gav.
So, over the weekend I was doing a bit of work on the neck and as I was fitting the nut I noticed how far out the radius of the nut was to the radius of the fret board. After some checking, I have measured the fretboard radius to be 20"! Don't know if this is a mistake, I know 20" radius' exist on some guitars and they are more suited to "shred" style playing. This worries me a little, I have never played such a flat fretboard. Any advice?
Got djent?
Edit: did you use a home made radius guage?:confused:
Pabs, I have never seen a PBG kit with such a high and flat radius. Is it 20' radius the whole of the fretboard ?
How does it feel when you finger a chord ?
might take some getting used to I'd say
Andy: Yes indeed, I make my own radius gauges! I don't even know where to begin with djent...
Wokka: 20" the whole way along. Feels fine as just a neck, won't be able to tell for sure until the strings go on. Gonna have to reshape the nut though. :(
classical fret boards are essentially flat, so you'll have to get your neo classical metal on!
just make them match, i think you will be fine, in the end it's just a number, go by feel
You make a good point, Stan. I guess I'll just have to wait and see.
Hey Pabs i am about 2 seconds off an orbital sander and 80grit on this non PBG 335 thing me bob.
Cant win a trick
I'd be a little worried about what you'll find under that veneer Tones. I at least had a good idea from the back side.
Pabs you're freaking me out. I've been layin down the TO coats in this warmer weather but haven't had an issue as yet, mind you I sand down and polish using micromesh in the aircon because I don't want to go outside :eek:
I know that in some of the 0000 steel wool DB says that it contains bad stuff, could it be that reacting with the TO?
Wash the wool and the oils should come out, leaving a nice clean wool afterwards to work with!
I reckon you could be right there as it might just sand through to some daggy ply wood underneath the thin cap.Quote:
Originally Posted by pablopepper
6 more coats of tru oil. 2 more weeks of curing. Same result. :( Still not colourfast. Grrrr.
I have caved and bought some acrylic clear, so now I have to wait for an appropriate day to paint, it's been way to hot and humid recently.
Another 3-4 weeks of waiting afterwards though... This has been the most frustrating build yet for me, constant setbacks.
Plus, as the clear coat on my gold bass ended up turning the gold patchy, I decided to get a bit funky with it and try a gold sparkle finish. Looks awesome, but I misjudged and put a huge run right down the front of the guitar. Now that has to be sanded off and started again...It really wasn't my weekend.
http://i.imgur.com/6u0MZJd.jpg
bummer Pabs, you have had a bad run, hopefully luck comes your way soon !
All good clean fun pabs haha, i just stuffed up 2 pickguards, might have to buckle and get a palm router, the expenses just never stop.
And i am still fighting with the heel join on my 12 string neck not taking colour, because of the insidious glue they used, hopefully i have it filled this time and can move on
Hope you turn the corner soon, nothing is insurmountable, its just a pain.