Andrews tla

there should be a song written called 'the earth blues' DO DOO DOO DOO haha. Look forward to a sound demo, what are the pups Andrew, toneriders ?

Yeah man, then halfway through the guitar cuts out, some mumbling, and then carry on. They are gfs blades.

The printer is off but still conneected to power, yes? Does it stop tiggering the sound if the printer is unplugged from the power point? What wiring layout did you use and can we see some pics of your wiring? And, just out of interest, are you testing it with a modelling board/amp?

Wokks, how about Hendrix's Earth Blues?

Hey weirdy yep printers off, but connected to the same power board as the amp, which is a peavey vypyr modelling amp. The schematic is used was from guitar electronics, 2 humbuckers one volume one tone, 3 way lever, coil tap for each pick up. I'll post some pics when I get home tonight but I have a feeling something is earthing against the control plate. It was a pretty tight squeeze to get the coil tap pots and all associated wiring in.

Before you re-open the control plate and start re-wiring, do a few tests first just to narrow down what's going on:

1. Does the USB lead trigger the sound with the printer still plugged in but switched off at the power point/board?
2. Does it trigger the sound if the printer is physically unplugged from the power point/board?
3. If you can, try testing the guitar with a standard amp (non-modelling, even just a headphone amp), does the sound stll cut out or is it just very low volume?

Hey weirdy, so the guitar doesn't work through my tube amp either, or with a different lead. I unplugged the usb lead from the printer and it won't trigger the sound through either amp, same story if the lead is still connected and the printer is unplugged from the board. Another thing I noticed last night, leaving all controls alone the guitar will make noise for about 10 minutes then shut off, touching the lead to a metal part won't make it kick off again till I unplug the guitar lead for a few seconds, then plug it back in, touch with the usb and it's making noise. I might try taking the control assemble out of the body and seeing if it works. When the leads are in the cavity, maybe something is bending and earthing where it shouldn't.

Can you check it with the printer plugged in to a switched off power point? Need to see if it is somehow being triggered by a DC voltage through the USB when the power point is on.

I'm thinking your cap could be the area to focus on.

Yeah mate tried that too. Moved the amp to a separate wall outlet with nothing in it, and switched off the outlet that had the board with the printer on it. Did not trigger sound.

Ok, so it is an active USB that's triggering it. I'm guessing it's a cap related issue.

Ok sweet. I'll do some further investigation tonight.

Thanks for the help mate.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...a6c92586a1.jpg

Wiring grumbles part 2. So the volume knob now is buzzing it's face off when I touch it, and to a lesser extent the neck pick up when I touch the rails. I have pulled the volume knob earth's off, cleaned the earth points and resoldered again and still the same issue. The pots are cheap ebay items and it's not the first time I've had one be a bit shite so will rewire the thing again tonight. I was using the guitar electronics diagram initially, but after reading sd and gfs wiring are interchangeable, I downloaded this one. Question is, it seems the neck pup is switched at the tone, and the bridge at the volume. Is this correct? I would rather have the neck tapped at volume and bridge at tone.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...929f023188.jpg
This is the sd diagram.

GFS colour-coding doesn't match SD. SD has black as hot and green as ground, whereas GFS has green as hot and black as ground. They do have the same pairs, black-white for one coil, red-green the other, but you'll need to convert the diagram to use it.

And yes, that SD diagram has the neck split on the tone and the bridge split on the volume, but it will be easy enough to swap them. I think from memory that the SD pups use the red-green pair for the south/adjustable coil and black-white pair for the north/slug coil, so the splits in diagram above is taking the slug coil from the bridge and screw coil from the neck to give you a hum-cancelling pair in the middle position. I'll have to check how the GFS rails are setup (will add link here).

To wire up your GFS's like the above, but with the volume splitting the neck and tone splitting the bridge, do this:
Bridge pup green to the 3-way (instead of black) and black to ground on back of pot, red & white to tone push/pull.
Neck pup white to the 3-way (instead of red) and red to ground on back of pot, black & green to volume push/pull.

I think that will work and give you a hum-cancelling pair in the middle position. Make sense?

(If you've got some clip leads it would be a good idea to test the split hum-cancelling pair by clipping the bridge green together with the neck white and connect that to the lead's tip and clip the bridge red together with the neck black and connect that to the lead's sleeve/ground.)

Makes perfect sense. Thanks a bunch mate for all your help.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...95a6965cdb.jpg
So this would work?

Just unsure of the switch wiring. Also to note, I tried to earth the pots to each other last night, just ran a piece of solder from the tops of each pot, and that killed all sound.

Yep, looks pretty close to me. The control plate itself will provide the ground link between the pots, so that's ok, but your sketch is missing the wire linking the switch output to the outer lug of the volume pot. Other than that, it looks fine. It should mean that when both pickups are split in the middle position you'll have the inner coils active as a hum-cancelling pair.

Ok got it. I'll give it a cracking when I get home. Thanks again

Couldn't help myself... GFS colours with push/pull splits (volume splits the neck, tone splits the bridge).

I used the volume pot as the common ground point, but you can use the tone pot if you want. It's for a CRL style lever switch, so if you're using the stock/import switch it'll be different. Let me know if you're unsure.

Attachment 760

The pickup bare shield wires also connect to the pot's common ground point.

Mate you are the biggest legend ever!

yeah where would we be without Weirdy the electronics guru !

I reckon. The dudes a genius.

Totally unrelated, but please pray to the gods of gas. Some fella is selling a 6505+ 1x12 for $350, some guy reckons he may be interested but I'm next in line! New tubes, biased professionally, only used in a studio. Hole e sheet.

I have one Andrew and it's awsome

Ermegherd if I can score this amp I'll be the happiest dude ever.

They have huge tone. Balls to the wall metal.

It's hands down the best combo i've owned.

Super jealous. Dude hasn't responded to his post to me or the other guy or hasn't seen my Facebook pm.... He's on the Gold Coast, going away for chrissy, flying out of Brisbane so will hopefully have an 6505 in the boot along with my bass amp and the 9 tanglewood acoustics I bagged at auction.

Just so the world knows, my first born will be named weirdbits. It's working!

hehe we'll believe it when we hear it.

It's Bits...

Weird Bits

Hi this is my daughter, weird bits.

Good luck scoring the amp, man ... it'll be screamer!

Just a suggestion ... its always a good idea to get any amp serviced and properly set-up when you get it (especially 2nd-hand amps!) ... if you're in Sydney I can thoroughly recommend the absolute genius of the "silent guru of amplifiers", Martin Kell (near Bexley I think?) who does truly incredible work ... can supply contact details if you want

Thanks Scott, unfortunately I'm at the other end of the universe, North qld.

So, how's the sound with that wiring? Is it hum-cancelling correctly when they're both split and it's the inside rails that are active?

Yeah mate it sounds great. I accidentally put it a. 22 cap instead of the 47. Would there be a tonne of difference? Also, when I touch the rail closest to the neck it buzzes a bit. Nothing else makes a peep when I touch it. I will never touch a pup in a playing situation anyway so no big deal, but on the rail on the neck pup closest to the middle, when I touch that one, no buzzes.

I think GFS recommend using 22's with their rails, so you're probably good with that. An 047 would make it noticeably darker at max tone, but it depends on your personal tastes. As for the buzzing, does it only happen when both coils of the neck pup are active, or when it is split, or always? if your grounds and bare shield wires are connected correctly then it may be something internal in the pickup. Does it ever happen with the bridge pup (either rail with any setting), or is it specific to the outside rail of the neck pup?

Nah just specific to that one rail when it's in hb mode. No drama though, I don't touch the pups when playing, I was just touching everything to see if there were any weird noises. If I'm touching the strings and touch the rail it won't do it. I think is stick with the 22, it's nice and snappy, the pups sound huge when drop tuned so that little bit of zing helps it stay clean.

If you ever take to fondling that outside rail and the buzzing does become an issue, there is one thing you could try... but it would involve re-wiring how the neck pup is connected. You'd need to alter the neck pup's connections to the lever switch, volume push/pull and the grounds to change the sequence of the coils, but I'd be surprised if it actually made any difference. If all of your connections are currently correct then it may just be an internal quirk of that neck pup.

If you do want to try it let me know and I'll do another diagram for you with the modified connections.