Build Thread: Stans 57 Harmony Jazz project

Hey Pesty, did I read that you have a busted stop piece on your Epi?

If so, let me know the centre measurements of the posts and I will have a look in the man cave to see if I have one lurking in a dark corner..

I meant tail piece.... Half a bottle of excellent Merlot and several beers in.......

Hi Stan

came across this today. I thought it may give you some clues on the fingerboard

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SZ-yZ5G09pU

One thing I noticed is that they use Tite-bond for ALL glueing. none of this airplane glue or superglue.

PK

Wot PK said.

When you get to the glueing down of the fingerboard, dont forget to place a length of sellotape over the truss rod :)
It also helps with alignment if you cut the ends off two small screws, drill a few shallow holes in the neck at nut end and heel and insert them pointy end up so they stick out a mill or two.
Then line up your board, clamp it down so it punches a few holes. These become your registration points and also stop the board slipping out of alignment when you glue it.
It is easier to get a nice even spread of glue if you use a small foam roller, these can be found in most $2 shops or art supplies.
I run an even coat of glue on the neck and board then line it up and clamp.
You can use your radius block as a clamping caul.

havent updated here for a while, and will soon.

Thanks for the excellent tips DB and PK.

Sorry guys, but this one will have frets

have done a bit more...

slots cut for fingerboard. don't mind the cheapo mitre box, they're square and straight. Same scale as the original, more on that later...

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/j...ject/009_2.jpg

Truss rod in and some sellotape went over the top as per DB recommendation. Blue tape is for centre line, ends of finger board have one marked as well.

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/j...ject/012_1.jpg

Titebond smeared on and clamps, and some clamps and a clamp or two...

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/j...ject/014_1.jpg

well it seems to have stuck, dried overnight with the clamps on;

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/j...ject/047_1.jpg

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/j...roject/048.jpg

the original had a wood packer under here, will probably do the same, but the gap looks kind of cool

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/j...roject/049.jpg

yet to be trimmed/sanded flush.
just realised that the overhang at the body will be hard to get right.... oh well

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/j...roject/050.jpg

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/j...roject/051.jpg


using the very awesome CS Guitarcraft fret ruler (thanks Pabs, it rocks - get one guys, they are great) , you can see there is a tiny bit of relief, and a bit more, I'm sure, when I string it up.And perhaps a little less when frets go in, who knows...

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/j...ject/052_1.jpg

you can see the fret board is quite thick, but the neck is thin, and I routed a truss rod slot where there wasn't one, and I bet its pretty thin in parts. So it was left beefy for feel and strength.
Disadvantage will be needing a tall nut and height of the pickup when I do that. It will have a floating bridge, so it should all be fine.

So, about the scale... Tape is to highlight the 12th fret:

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/j...roject/054.jpg

or for metric:

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/j...roject/055.jpg

so scale length is 25 1/8 inches, so in between PRS and Fender... so the floating bridge should simplify intonation (or knowing my luck, turn it into a nightmare...)

nice work Stan good to see some progress on this. The fingerboard at the bridge end will need some support won't it ? Thats if you have Hendrix sized fingers to reach the high frets.
Will be a job to clean up the fingerboard edges without damaging the neck finish. Nice looking fret saw. The fret slots look nice and uniform. Well done.
If you own more clamps I would have used more clamps gluing the fingerboard to the neck but sounds like its bonded well.

Stan....
I am impressed :)
Keep this up and I will be posting pain in the butt fretboard and headstock repairs!

You are nailing this because you are taking your time and investing a heck of a lot of passion into this refurb.

thanks Wokka, yes I think it will need support. However, if you look at a violin fingerboard they overhang by miles. Instead of a block underneat I might just put a dowel at the end in the centre - it will be supported but look floating.

Fret saw is a Stewmac one, bought a bunch of stuff all at once a while ago. Shipping is expensive so I made the best of it. Got their dremmel base at the same time...

the fretboard had a centre line and all the fret slots were drawn in place before the cutting began, than sanded off later with 400, 800, 1500. Will probably sand more before fretting

I agree about the clamps, but it does seem well bonded for the whole length. I am thinking about getting a mini block plane for the edges (cant have enough tools) and then final sand for the last bit. The neck is stained, but no clear, so I am not too worried about the process: slow and easy should be fine

Fret board is the same length and position as the original, I have no idea how the higher frets were reached. I have hands more like Humphrey B Bear rather than Jimi Hendrix, unfortunately

DB - thanks for the kind words.

I am learning a lot as I go, so going slow is the only way, haha.

Fixing lost causes seems to be a theme of mine...

You are right though, she is a great old girl and deserves to look and play well in the end. I love old archtops and jazz boxes, and this is as close as I am likely to get, so I'll do my best.

I am thinking of only having side markers on this, as the fretboard looks too nice.

I don't know how I'd go with block inlays , which I really like, but perhaps dots might be the best of both worlds. If I could get that gold/antique white MOP look, that would be ideal. I'd rather use the real thing and not a transfer though. The originals were badly stenciled blocks, which you can see in the background of the fret saw shot.

I reckon just side dot markers Stan. Keep the fretboard as it is with just frets will look cool. Or dot markers aren't too difficult you can get smaller than 6mm MOP markers

i think you are right wokks, i'll start with side dots and see how i like it. small dots near the edge but on the front might look good too...

Damn this is looking nice! Can't wait to see this one finished.

thanks crudes! you should see the hardware i have for this - had some custom stuff made....

Top notch job Stan, great seeing this come together.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

wow Stan I ain't spent too much time on the forum lately due too busy busy with my own stuff but mate this old girl is coming up a treat. Some great work your doing .

thanks Andrew, er sorry Chips

thanks Jarrod, yep, getting there slowly

Stan you don't want to upset Ponch or he will be around with a big ticket for you later !

one question Stan I assume this is a left hander, whats the deal does the bridge have a piezo pickup ? Are there any volume or equaliser controls on it ? probably weren't around in 1957 !

yes wokks , it will be a leftie

I have a kent armstrong full size jazz humbucker going into it - yet to cut the big hole... the stiffening rails inside seem to be the exact distance apart to fit one. if not, some fancy modding coming up.

it will be single pup with tone and volume controls - chicken head knobs mounted on the body

sounds good Stan, I got a Kent Armstrong mini humbucker to go in my tele build. Going to have to try a Babicz bridge for that !

that sounds nice, love babicz stuff

These have arrived : (for this resto and for my ES kit yet to be properly started...)

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/j...25764616_n.jpg

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/j...97535345_n.jpg

wow they look speccy Stan, where are they from ?
Looks like tinted clear perspex with some sort of dye or colouring ?

they are really nice.

they are molded, the colours are mixed as the plastic is poured into the mold, so every one is different.

they are hand made by a guy called Matt Haramis in the USA. He is on the Electric Guitar Builders Resource page on FB.

Great guy, easy to deal with, good prices, can do any colour and has a range of knob shapes etc.

He did the truss rod covers custom off a pic I sent him. I can PM his details to anyone who wants them. I was his first Aussie customer.

The knobs are to suit standard CTS pots and even have tightening screws. Very pro job.

nice one Stan, little touches like these can really set an axe apart from one with more stock hardware.

3 posts off 3k bro !

I just like things to look cool, i guess this is my idea of cool

what do i get at 3K ?

haha 3000 posts Stan you get 60% of an entry pass to the GAStronomist lounge !
100% pass gets you past security

3K posts, I guess I can look in the window!

well done Stan you are only the 2nd forumite to reach 3k.
Sorry mate its one way glass hahahha

gosh i must sure talk some crap then...

not necessarily Stan, it means you have helped alot of builders on the way !

Those surrounds and knobs look the Biz :)

they are nice DB, cant wait to get them on

Congrats on 3k Stan!!! Also the knobs and surrounds look amazing!

Can't wait to see this finished.

Hi Looks fantastic You've made a great job of removing the original finish. Look forward to seeing what you do with this
Well done

THis thread is blowing my tiny mind!