"maybe even with an optional extra twist."
Intrigued you guru of the wiring. :)
"maybe even with an optional extra twist."
Intrigued you guru of the wiring. :)
I haven't had a chance to get sketchy as yet, hopefully will find some time over the weekend.
Injured thumb at the moment, so my drawing/hand-writing is worse than usual.
I sacrificed a PBG P pup to double check their internal config and make sure the shielded blue wire was connected they way I suspected. Don't try taking the covers off or disassembling them, they're glued together big time and will self-destruct rather than come apart.
Essentially, the white 'core' of the yellow wire is your 'hot' out from coil 1 and its bare shield wire runs through coil 1, connects to the bare shield of the blue wire which connects to coil 2. The white core of the blue wire is the 'hot' from coil 2 which then connects to the 'in' of coil 1 completing the circuit... and you have a series linked P pickup.
The yellow/blue coil I'm calling coil 1, and the blue only is coil 2. To get series/parallel switching on the P pup you'll need to cut the blue wire. Coil 2 is then ready to go but to make coil 1 work you'll need to join the bare shield and white core of the blue wire stub and then insulate it so it can't short. This will allow the bare shield of the yellow wire to connect as ground/negative of coil 1, otherwise it won't work.
Hopefully this is clear enough to understand:
Attachment 28801
Neck Volume push/pull switches the P coils from series (down) to parallel (up).
Bridge Volume push/pull switches the bridge humbucker from humbucker (down) to split (up).
Master Tone push/pull switches the link between the pickups from parallel (down) to series (up)* [this is the optional extra twist]
* This is a variation on the normal bridge & neck parallel/series switching. When in series mode the neck volume still works as master but in this version the bridge volume becomes a sort of fader for the bridge pup. Essentially, it controls how much signal goes through the bridge pup and how much bypasses it. The catch is the larger the value pot the more 'switchy' it becomes, and it does affect how the pickup is loaded so will change the sound compared to a normal series switching set up. What I mean by 'switchy' is you may not get a lot of gradual change before it bypasses completely, depending on the pot value. I have a bass wired like this.
If you'd rather have normal bridge & neck parallel/series switching without the 'fader' (like on your 'The Lot' layout), then wire it like this:
Attachment 28802
Hopefully it all makes some sense.
Oops, made a boo boo.
I forgot that with the bridge & neck para/series switching the ground connection for C1- also needed to switch to match C2- rather than be fixed on the neck vol push/pull. Here are the corrected diagrams:
Attachment 28803
Attachment 28804
I really do appreciate your work mate. Thank you so much.Quote:
Originally Posted by WeirdBits
I am still at work for another four days.
Thank you so much....hope the injury heals quickly.
Weirdy,
One more day at work...home tomorrow. Parts order has been made.
In your wonderful wiring diags you mentioned the “the switchiness” being effected by the value of the pot. I have ordered three 250k push pull pots....trying Gotoh this time....as the bourns minis are out of stock....will these be okay?
The idea of a fader intrigues me....shall do this one....as I like the idea and it is different. Thank you for feeding my sound obsessions.....muhaha.
By the way thank you for dismembering a P Bass pickup of your own. The sacrifice is much appreciated. R.I.P. Chinese P Bass pickup.
This build is going so quick. I suppose bolt on necks and having a well learnt pattern of sanding and a random orbital sander helps.
This one was a lot better with glue dags....just a couple. The white line between sections of body wood was hard to remove....think I did well though...goof off...tiny wire brush....sanding.
One issue...the jack socket hole looks to have been filled with a glue or body filler after a whack of tear out. The resulting mess is too big to use my...and Wazkellys....favourite recessed TELE socket. This time I will use a switchcraft jack socket....but with a surface mount cover....bugger.
The wiring changes...thanks Weirdy....and a graphite nut shall be the only changes at this stage.
I was considering a Black with brass saddles Wilkinson fender style Bass bridge.....not a bad price either....but I will have to remember to measure to see if it will cover the existing three point bridge holes....undecided about filling the holes.....mmmmm.
Oh....I found an explorer Bass style truss rod cover.....black Gibbo bell shape style. The Bass t cover seems to use three screws.....one at top and two at bottom. Can’t find them outside original.....got a cheapie two screw one....black with white edge.
Naming.....was thinking something unoriginal and dull....DORA The Explorer.....but naaaahhhh.
The top is a golden yellow....edge is natural Tru Oil over sanded ebony timbermate....so quite dark....back of body neck and headstock is very red mahogany......so use the old name I had to apply to a double bound hollow body....the JAM SANNICH.
Any wonderful cheeky ideas accepted....need to make decals for her....they don’t stand out too well on dark colours....so I only have the little yellow banana headstock front. “Nothing Fl4sh” and handcrafted in Buderim and serial number plus a name to go on.
I'd probably also order a 500K push/pull for the bridge volume and start with that value first, as the humbucker will probably work best with that. It's always good to be able to try different values if you're not happy with the sound.
If the fader is too switchy you could try to smooth it out by adding a resistor across it that's only activated when you switch to series mode. That would reduce the effective value of the pot and make the response more linear, rather than log/audio. Like this:
Attachment 28846
If you're using a 500K bridge volume pot you could try a 120K-130K resistor, or around 200K for a 250K volume pot. That will then give you around 100K across the pickup at max volume. If you want to do some tests before committing you can use a spare 250K pot instead of a fixed resistor (a B250K would be best). Connect the middle and right lugs (as drawn, with no ground connection) in place of the resistor and then you can vary the resistance to see if it helps and what value works best with the bridge volume. Clips leads are your friend for stuff like this.
Attachment 28847
Weirdy,
I made the wiring harness in a piece of measured cardboard.
I did get a 500k push pull pot for the humbucker pickup.
The coil 1 and coil 2 split was easily done....ended the circuit on the blue wire...and extended the other wires....all shrink wrapped and ready to go.
Thanks for you ideas yet again. Love how your mind works and the sounds it enables me to produce.🎼🎸🎶
I have sanded the body and the neck through to 1200 grit with Tru Oil as the lubricant.
The back of the neck and the body is the Mahogany Prooftint stain from Feast Watson....nice deep cherry red....nearly plum on maple.
The edges of the body are natural with just the timbermate filler.
The top has been sanded back as the golden teak prooftint was very yellow. But it is sanded back prooftint over ebony timbermate.
Still have not had the guts to play with the binding yet....job for after xmas I think.