YB-4 'Bad Girl'

All sanded up.

Attachment 17026

The stock nut and end of the fretboard looked a bit dodgy and needed some attention. Not just due to a malformed nut face.

Attachment 17027

The nut is hollow for a start, as expected, but shelf has been cut at an angle and the end of the fretboard is actually curved and needed to be tweaked. Had to double-check with a fret calculator to ensure the 1st fret distance was correct, it was except for the bulging curve upsetting the nut.

Attachment 17028

Attachment 17029

It took some time but I eventually got it cleaned up as best I could without cutting the nut shelf any deeper on the bass side.


cont.

My plan was always to stain the fretboard black, not necessarily super black but certainly darker and with a more even colouring on the grain. It's an unbound neck so no barrier between the rosewood fretboard and the nice clean light maple… which made me very wary of stain bleed/creep.

I was planning on two stain coats so as a test I masked up halfway along the fretboard edge so I could gauge the bleed potential of the stain and how well the tape would work for protection.

Attachment 17030

Attachment 17031

Fiebings oil based dye, it seems to stain pretty much anything it touches… wear gloves and don't get it on anything you don't want black. I apply it just using a cotton tip, works well for fretboards.

Attachment 17032

1st coat on.

Attachment 17033


cont.

Time for some inlay 2.

DB, avert your eyes…

I'm going to use black epoxy for the inlay. I know it's condemned by some, but I've never tried it on an actual build. I did some tests on scrap wood a few years ago and that's still intact and looks ok so I wanted to give it a try on at least one build.

I had already masked up the headstock as part of the fretboard black prep.

Attachment 17034

Yes, I know, Araldite but it's what I had on hand. And, the very potent stain powder.

Attachment 17035

Only a tiny amount of stain needed, this is actually a touch too much, sitting on top of the resin component. Mix thoroughly, then add the hardener and mix again.

Attachment 17036

Quickly scoop and spread the epoxy into the inlay rout, be very careful of air bubbles as if you take too long they'll be trapped in the mix. You need to mound the epoxy over the rout as it contracts as it hardens. If you try to fill it just flat with the surface the inlay will end up dipped/recessed and will need re-applying.

Attachment 17037

Attachment 17038


cont.

After a few minutes, remove the tape before the epoxy hardens too much. Even though it's listed as '24hrs' it can take 5 days to a week until it's thoroughly hardened all through the fill. Don't rush it. I usually apply any left-over epoxy in a similar hole on a bit of scrap and that becomes my test piece for hardness. If I can mark it with a fingernail then it needs more time.

Attachment 17039

After another 5 days drying and light steel wool, I applied the 3rd and final coat of Dark Tease to the body.

Attachment 17040

Attachment 17041

Attachment 17042


cont.

Again, my favourite, the top edge of the body.

Attachment 17043

Attachment 17044

Attachment 17045

The main tear mark on the back is still pretty visible, but that's not surprising.

Attachment 17046

Attachment 17047


:)

What a great build. I have read every step. Thank you for sharing. More more more. 😎

Great thread Weirdy and an awesome read. Bass is looking really nice. Some great tips here and thanks for sharing in such detail.

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Damn! Information and photo overload!!
This looks awesome Weirdy!

This is a fantastic thread and the results are very inspiring!

What's the plan for the wiring? Phase reversal, etc?