koldo2552´s ES-3 (The WorkHorse)

Where do you plan to put the piezo disk? There's a reasonably thick wooden block under the bridge area (to take the bridge posts) with a wooden support post underneath that. So it's not easy to stick the disk right under the bridge - normally the best spot. Anywhere else and the sound could be very bass-heavy. This may be less of an issue if you want a jazz sound.

I had an ES-1 to set-up that was fitted with the Tonerider Alnico IVs. Supposedly very close to the IIs they were very powerful - couldn't get a clean sound out of a Fender Blues Jr without turning the volume controls down to 4, as both pickups were overdriving the input. But I believe the IIs are a lot cleaner.

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Originally Posted by Simon Barden

Where do you plan to put the piezo disk? There's a reasonably thick wooden block under the bridge area (to take the bridge posts) with a wooden support post underneath that. So it's not easy to stick the disk right under the bridge - normally the best spot. Anywhere else and the sound could be very bass-heavy. This may be less of an issue if you want a jazz sound.

I had an ES-1 to set-up that was fitted with the Tonerider Alnico IVs. Supposedly very close to the IIs they were very powerful - couldn't get a clean sound out of a Fender Blues Jr without turning the volume controls down to 4, as both pickups were overdriving the input. But I believe the IIs are a lot cleaner.

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I have to make some trials, i've got a prebuilded piezo disk with a connector and I use it to put it on diferent places to see how it reacts.
I've been seeing where goes the block, and it lefts space close enough to the bridge.
I really like the sound of piezo disks, they are extremely cheap and they can give a sound pretty close to a mic. But the location is very important and they need a preamp, at least for impedance matching. When i play with my acoustic i mix the sound of the soundhole pickup with the sound of the disk, i cut the bass frequencies of the disk and it gives very beautiful mids, highs and every percussive sound you make on the guitar. Actually as a real mic, a contact mic. Will try the same with this guitar, it worths the effort.

If you want clean sounds coming from a humbucker try the 50's wiring, you can clean the sound with guitars volume without darkening the sound. My brother's LP kit has this wiring and works incredible with my tweed style amp. It's an easy mod, you can try it. Also, coil taping, everything gets cleaner with singles...

That is looking good. A star!!

this is looking great!

Great job on the headstock, it's different anything else I've seen on a PBG before.

Nice head-stock, matches the guitar style perfectly

Yep, loving that head re-shaping. Really does suit that style. Wonderful work Koldo!

That's a very nice looking headstock. I love the asymmetry on it - works surprisingly well with the 3+3.

Thank you all for the feedback!
Tru oil did not arrived yet, so yesterday i made the wiring harness.
First of all, i made a cardboard template of the guitar to measure necessary wiring and avoid seeing wires thru the F—Holes.
http://i63.tinypic.com/2ihpfuh.jpg

Not good looking, but it has the necessary holes and measures.

http://i64.tinypic.com/34shrev.jpg

And here some of the elements.
- Tonerider classic AlnicoII set with Allparts humbucker rings
- DiMarzio pots for tone
- AllParts CTS pots with push pull switches (they are alpha)
- Switchcraft jack connector
- Stock selector switch. Seems to work fine.

I used 2 Mallory 150's .022 caps. I have them lying around, they work fine.
And as this guitar has no electronic cavity witch can be shielded, i used shielded wire for conections. Bare cooper wire for ground.... well here a pic
http://i66.tinypic.com/38041.jpg
Before insertin the harness to the guitar, i have to make the piezo disk and i have to mesure the wire that connects everything to the bridge post.

See you!

Looks neat, but you may have created some installation problems for yourself as you really needed to leave more slack on the pickup cables. Are you planning to fit the electrics before or after you glue the neck on?

If after, then the first thing to do will be to push the wiring harness in through one of the pickup holes, then fit the pickups into their mounting rings and attach them. You'll need to pull the pickups a reasonable distance out of the body to do this - which is where some more slack would have been useful. Fitting the springs over the height adjusting screws and screwing them in isn't the easiest of jobs, even when you have all the free movement you need.

If you fit any of the other controls before the pickups, then you may not have enough slack to fit the pickups. Remember that you'll have to pull one of the pickups back out of the body through the other pickup hole to fit it, so don't forget to feed some string in through the pickup mounting screw holes to allow you to do this.

If before the neck is attached, then you've got easier access through the neck cavity to help push things up from inside - though another pair of hands is always useful here. But i wouldn't fit the neck pickup in securely until the neck is glued on - then you can push it up tight against the end of the neck before screwing it down.

Whatever you do - DON'T forget to fit and solder the bridge earthing wire (you've got it marked on your template but it's easy to forget later). Others have used an in-line bullet connector for this, so it's easier to remove the harness later if necessary. It also allows you to solder one end of the wire on to the harness whilst its out of the body. But leave enough length to fit the two halves together easily.