Printable View
Wokks, I used titebond, that's what I had on hand, but DB said it's more common to use fish glue and warned of not being able to use water based finishes.
The Behlen poly isn't water based but the stain put on the mahogany might be, I have U-beaut and stewmac stains to play with. U-beaut mix with water only, stewmac's colortone mix with alcohol and water, but I only have a couple of those to mix a suitable colour with. Haven't planned that far ahead yet.
Oh poo bum wee......
It was worth a try though.
Deffo go with the alcohol based dyes. I reccomend Wild Turkey for the job :p
Bugger. Guess if you got it all perfect, first time, every time then there isn't a lot of room to learn and grow eh?
If it had been me, I probably would have stripped the veneer with the swearing alone.
Sounds like he may need to enlist the help of both Jack & Jim and possibly Maker's Mark too to get this job done.Quote:
Originally Posted by dingobass
Well, after some scraping, sanding and swearing (lots of swearing) the first veneering attempt has been removed. Might need to have some Turkey 101 on hand for the next attempt.
On a positive, have shaped and glued the veneer to the HS. Used the tape and super glue trick to stick the veneer to the caul I made and sanded it to shape, carefully, then used a putty knife to separate the pieces. Then used painters tape to mark the position for it on the HS, thought that if I used pencil to mark the outline it could be a problem to get rid of the marks after the veneer is on. Seemed to work well. Will look a bit strange if I don't get the body done as well.
Attachment 9383Attachment 9384
Question for DB; can I use titebond liquid hide glue (brown bottle) in place of fish glue?
I can get that locally but the only fish glue I've found is from stewmac and the postage is more than the product. Do you know of an Aus supplier I could contact?
Cheers
Grant
wow Grant that headstock looks totally sick, stock standard high standard again !
Hide glue is good, just be aware that it has a short open time so you need to be super organised..Quote:
Originally Posted by neverwas
I would only do one half at a time to make sure the glue isnt setting before you lay the veneer.
DB what is the stuff you recommended to me last veneer I glued ? there was a horizontal or vertical glue, can't remember the name. Think it was a Sellys product
Thanks Wokks.
If the open time for the hide glue is about the same as the titebond original I used first time around, shouldn't be a problem, will do one side at a time anyway. Thanks DB.
If there's another suitable product, I'm all ears Wokks.
More adventures in applying veneer. Got hold of some hide glue and had a go at the control side of the body. Trimmed the straight edge back to straight and taped into position. Applied the hide glue, lay the veneer in place, slid into the vac bag and used the vac bag to pull the veneer flat. Then a sheet of melamine on top, old socket set and bbq gas bottle for weight and left it for an hour and a half.
Attachment 9431
Took it out of the bag and the mid section wasn't quite flat onto the body. A layer of wax paper, some timber and clamped it all down. Left that overnight and looks to have worked.
Attachment 9432
Made a mess with the glue, cleaned up most with a damp cloth and what is left can get rid of with goof-off. Not sure if I need to do anything about the glue that came through the burls and parts of the flamed section. The burls probably won't be an issue, just where the flames are might have dark marks stand out when the poly goes on. The glue is still a bit tacky, will try to clean it up a bit more in a day or two.
Attachment 9433
Happier with the result this time around. Thanks for the advice, DB.
While that was clamped up, reamed out the tuner holes and trimmed the truss rod rout on the HS.
Attachment 9434
Grant