Good call, Barge. I don't like using stripper, because it's messy and smelly, but for a small job like this it's probably a good option.
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Good call, Barge. I don't like using stripper, because it's messy and smelly, but for a small job like this it's probably a good option.
Is the nut also 83mm? Seems the strings run at an angle, so perhaps that 85mm bridge spacing is closer to what you need than it appears. To strip your bridge, I would look for a glass bead media blaster, as its much less aggressive and leaves a finer finish on the part.
The string spacing at the nut is more like 43 mm. Yeah they run at an angle. The 24th fret though is only 81.5 mm. I think the provided 75 mm bridge is probably about as wide as things can go.
Of course, looking back at the gallery at Lawry, wokkaboy and dallasn's IB-6S builds; they all had an A type bridge such as is shown in the photo on the IB-6SL store page - while I've got the B type shown on the IB-6S store page.
Just for fun, theirs looks like it could be string through body as well. The extra holes are there, not used for mounting.
So I'd ask what their string spacing turned out to be... but it's not the same bridge. Still it might show how much wider is possible, if the A type is wider.
Starting to think about preparing the body for the stain and finish. Using wudtone stain.
Here's what I think I need to do, hopefully someone can pull me up if I've gotten it wrong.
Sand the spalted maple veneer gently, starting high with say 400. Just get it smooth.
Sand the back and sides of the body, starting 220, then 320 and finish at 400.
No grain filler on the spalted maple veneer. Would change the look too much.
No grain filler on the basswood body. Apparently basswood doesn't need it, grain is tight?
Then start the stain coats. One colour on the top, rubbed to the edge. A different colour on the back and sides.
sounds like a fair plan Sam. You can probably start the cap on 220 grit but only sand lightly. Then move up to 240 and 320 grit should be high enough.
You could grain fill the cap but I'd choose a darkish colour. If you don't grain fill the cap the surface won't be flat but I left it that way looks nice in a natural state. Run your fingers over the cap and you will see what I mean
I'd seal the basswood, and I have. Whoever told you it was "tight" was on acid.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tindrrel
Seems to just as flat in either direction with or across the grain, just a bit rough.Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
Hi Sam, sorry I used the wrong word, I meant there are little channels that flow over the cap so small dips and high points.
I actually figured that's what you meant. I can't feel them.Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
Definitely felt them on my IB-5, before and after the oil coat. I don't mind it so much on that one.
Starting on the mods needed to the body before doing any sanding.
Checking the fit of the Tone Monster SBK-3 preamp.
I managed to get all the pots flush except the mid with the large PCB on it by some elaborate winding of the leads.
Attachment 4303
Neither PCB is near the edges so I'm pretty happy I can copper shield the cavity.
The areas marked in pencil will need to be carved out to allow the mid pot to sit flush.
Attachment 4304
Checking that the pup leads reached to the small PCB on the balance pot I noticed the bridge pickup sticking out much too high. I hadn't noticed when I did the original parts layout.
Turns out the hole from the pup route to control cavity is misaligned.
Attachment 4305
The normally the pup would have to lift a little to let the lead out from underneath. This lifts it another 3mm.
I filed down the hole to let the lead run flush to the floor of the pup route.
Attachment 4306
Pencil markings are considering creating a channel for the leads giving even more flexibility in the pup height.