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Welp
Looking at it again today I missed something when I first tinkered with it.
When I'm pressing the left switch, it's turning the clean channel off/on (A only) however the right switch is turning both on (Y).
Any ideas why the left switch isn't going between A/B?
Your right (Y) switch is working as you get both channels, and the A part of the left switch seems to be ok too, so it's probably the B switching on the left switch. Check the left-most centre lug on the left switch, as that sends the input signal to the B output.
It could also just be a dodgy switch with a bad contact, so either check it with a multimeter... or, if you're desperate, swap the left-most connections on the left switch to its unused middle pole lugs.
got the multi out and opened her up. Definitely that far left middle lug.
Will try resoldering the joints but if that fails - do I have to move the whole line across to the middle lugs or just the dodgy contact?
That left-most set of three lugs is one pole, so if a contact is bad you'll have to move the wires on each lug to the middle set of three lugs (pole).
It may just be a bad solder join, so try re-soldering those connections first before you start moving wires.
Alright I re-soldered the joint and now have continuity between the left middle lug and the mono jack tip.
Plugged it in and no luck. Just switching channel B on/off
Am I doing something stupid with the amps? Plugging into the wrong input? A/B mono jacks are for the amps right? and the far right jack is for the guitar because both chains lead to it (hot/ground)
"... switching channel B on/off" or was it channel A?
I'll post up some pics a bit later with a testing sequence for you to work through.
Ok, I've just whipped these up quickly to show which points should be hot and ground in each position (red = hot, white = ground). You'll have to click the switches to get the 'bar' contacts on the correct side for each state before testing. That's assuming you have the switches oriented correctly so that the poles (sets of three lugs) are running across the switches/images. I've numbered the lugs so we have a common frame of reference.
The 'bars' represent the active switch contacts between lugs, the little squares just show if the other lugs should be hot or ground, and the large circles show the hot and ground on the selected jacks. To test, get the switch in the matching state, then put your multimeter probe on the red 'IN' circle and the other on the red A or B circle, as appropriate. If you don't get signal then move the A/B probe to the highest number red 'bar' lugs, then next highest etc until you find where the signal stops. Repeat with the white dots.
So, for this 'A channel on' state your hot signal should be going: red circle IN -> 4-5 -> 10-11 -> red circle A. Make sense?
Attachment 1798
As it's your 'B' channel that's the problem, this is the state you'll want to check. I think you've already checked the 2-3 lugs, so it may be the 7-8 contacts. Signal path: red circle IN -> 3-2 -> 7-8 -> red circle B.
Attachment 1799
The 'Y' states ignore the A/B switch and just use the Y switch to bridge the signal across both the A and B channels, but I've drawn it up showing the 'Y' from both the 'A on' and 'B on' states just in case.
Attachment 1800
Attachment 1801
Does that help?
I am really stumped now. I followed all of the signal on every single mode and it all had continuity. Plugged in - no bueno.
Tried again - followed the whole signal chain again. Plugged in - worked perfectly.
I'm not sure if the wiring fairies have worked their magic but either way - thanks for all the help Weirdy.
I'll post up a demo when I get a chance of it in action.
hehe at least it's working.
Maybe a dodgy tip arm on the B jack not making solid contact with the plug? Give the plug a wiggle with it plugged in a see if the sound cuts out.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6o0A...ature=youtu.be
and a demo is live
sorry for the wanky playing - just wanted to show the tones I'm running atm