Need moar pics Maxy, that's looking amazing!
Printable View
Need moar pics Maxy, that's looking amazing!
Please do DB!!Quote:
Originally Posted by dingobass
I'll second that!Quote:
Originally Posted by stan
If only I'd known the vid was wrong before I started . . .
Might need a bind off between the Gavmeister and DB - I know both have different techniques. Have seen the Gavmeister's - keen to learn from Guru DB.
I'd like to know the whys and wherefores about it being bad technique, it seems to work ok....Quote:
Originally Posted by maxaxe
Stan, I think it's a case of many ways to skin a cat. The Gavmeister's solution involves a glue that is not on the DB approved list. It may be a situation where with a couple of options, you can learn from everyone and come up with a hybrid that works for you.
oh for sure mate, I was just wondering why DB doesn't like this method
Ok, I will try to keep it short...
Firstly, you will notice burn out caused by two things, one is cutting the channel full depth first time and the second is using a blunt routerbit.
The burning will severley compromise adhesion as the carbon acts as a barrier.
Secondly, using acetone as a glue is questionable. Acetone effectivly melts the ABS plastic but not enough to effect a strong bond to the timber. (It is fine to join two or more layers of binding together using acetone)
Notice how the guy melted binding in acetone to use as a bog? If you use either a weld on type glue (such as Tarzans Grip) or CA glue you will get a much stronger and consistant bond to the timber and thus will not need to bog up areas where the binding did not adhere to the timber.
Thirdly, not enough tape used to hold the binding in place whilst the glue dries.
And this is how it looks after a quick scrape and buff with 0000steel wool :)
great stuff DB, thanks for the lesson and clarification