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Hi Brendan,
How I managed to mount the tremlo in the wrong spot? I forgot to measure first. When I re-measured and re-drilled I reckon I went about half to 1 mm too far forward, but as I'd wound the bridge pieces forward I have plenty of adjustment. I am used to setting up Gibson styled guitars with their offset bridge. I guess I was so focused on the tremlo that I completely forgot the scale length.
Adam, If you read this I still have the other strat to send Back, Bones didn't put a mailing slip in the box. Oh and it's now Cherry Red(Shellaced). :D actually looks nice. But has no holes drilled. Never quite got to that.
part.
Cheers PK
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This is the original Strat with three seam cracks. I was bored so I shellaced it with Stew Mac Cherry Red. Actually think it looks pretty cool
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...-STRAT-003.JPG
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Pitty Paul - the first one was looking hot!
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Hey Paul, please see my email response. Cheers
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For those interested in the Finish on the Red Strat above, this was achieved by applying Stew Mac Cherry Red Coloured Shellac directly to the bare body of the Strat. The result is that you retain that wooded texture as the pores of the wood are not filled with Filler. This is a process I have used before but with Tung oil over a brown water wash. In that instance the Water wash raised the fibres of the timber and each wash the surface was sanded down. I did this process about 5 or 6 times, before applying tung oil. The tung oil was applied with a rag the same way as you apply Wudtone. This aplication is totally different to how you apply Shellac. To apply Shellac you need to make up a rubbing pad. You use two 170-180 mm square squabs of 100% pure cotton. you fold up one of the sections of cotton into a flat squareish pad. you then place this at the centre of the other piece of cotton and fold up the sides. I use a piece of copper wire to bind around the squab to hold it to gether, or you could use a plastic tie. When applying the Shellac you apply it with the grain in a sort of swooping motion, just caressing the work with each pass. If the work gets to sticky you will need to squirt some metho on the squab.
It is important to note that the use of cotton is to stop threads pulling out of the squab. I've used a host of different types of material and they pretty much have all ended up blowing a hole in the squab and getting fibres all over the work. If this happenes with Shellac all is not lost as you can wipe all teh shellac off with metho and a clean rag. As to what type of shellac to use. I found White Shellac produces a harder and glossier surface, but if you want that aged yellow look then standard shellac is the go. you can buy Shellac flakes or premixed shellac from Bunnings or any big hardware store.
The application of the shellac should be three coats about half an hour appart, then leave for 24 hours then repeats coating step. When you are happy with the amount of coats you should leave the work for about a week before finishing off.
When finishing off the Shellac I use 0000 steel wool as it gives a nice smoothe surface. AJ recommends MacGuires polish to bring up the shine. I am yet to give this a try.
Cheers PK
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That's a cool guide to using shellac, Paul. Detailed enough that I reckon I could even do it.
It's a pity the Strat's going back because it looks great.
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Hi Lawry thanks for that. Yeah that Strat does look good. But that's the way things go sometimes.
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Tung oiled Guitar. It looks and feels a bit like leather.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...gle-11-003.JPG
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The front of Tung Oiled guitar is clean oil, no colour added.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...gle-11-002.JPG
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This one is made from African Mahogany(as best as I could figure) it has of course the Bigsby, two Kent Armstrong Vintage P90's, the scale is standard Gibson 24.75. Tuners are Kluson deluxe, the Bridge Gotoh(I think). strings are Ultra Light D'Adario. Wiring is standard Gibson. Set up and fret leveling done by Jimmy Oastler at Underground Music in Weribee.
Cheers PK
