or over it........Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
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or over it........Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
Yeah, over the edge is more like it!
I decided to make a fret board smoothing block. First attempts were not great:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
With the pine block I was using a 50mm round bit and I guess I forgot to secure the depth. That 2 inch bit has a lot of mass and once it gets going its a bit of a wrecking ball. The second attempts I used some scrap from the neck blank, laminated some extra thickness to the bottom, got through the side routing ok, but didn't do a very good job securing the piece when doing the radius. The piece leaned into the bit and got spat out.
Third time lucky, one Rickenbacker smoothing block:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
Ok technically not a Ric block, Ricks have a 10inch radius, and this is 12. Here we have Mapleglo:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
and Burgundyglo:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
It was a good opportunity to check the colour on a larger piece and see how it would look with the centre stripe, which is why I painted it rather than just clearing it.
Nice work Rabbit. (well, on the third one anyway... :p)
How long are those? They look shorter than commercially available ones I've seen.
Thanx :D . It's 150mm long and will have a velcro backing stuck to it so I can use 150mm ROS pads. What you have seen, the long ones are used for shaping the radius from a blank. Since I use a jig to machine the fret board radius, all I need is a curved block with a finer grit to smooth any machine marks. Doesn't even have to be curved, it could be flat and still do the job. I just went through the exercise because lockdown :p .Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
Longer is always better for levelling things out. That's why smoothing planes are the longest type of plane. If you can, I really would use a longer block.
yeh, smoothing, not levelling. 150mm is long enough and still nice and manageable for it's purpose, which is why I don't use a 150mm file instead of a 600mm levelling beam when levelling frets :p
And levelling. Same thing. You want to keep the surface flat and smooth and correctly shaped, you go as long as you can.
More goodies arrived.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
That's about all the bits, except the truss rods ( I have the material for that, just need to make a jig to cut it to something usable.), and the jazz pickup bezel. I have the 0.9mm stainless sheet to make that from. Since I can't press the part I have to cut and weld pieces. Initial attempts were promising.