No. 39 is on its way to me.

The SD diagram in your earlier post is the standard way of doing parallel/series switching. With the push pull 'up' the pups are linked in series and the neck volume works as a master, with the bridge volume having no effect.

The following layout is a little different. When in series mode the neck volume still works as the master but the bridge volume allows you to fade/bypass some/all of the bridge pickup giving you a bit more control over the series sound. The idea is to make it still loud but a little less boomy, and allow you to mix in some of the bridge treble without going full on. Essentially the bridge volume will control how much signal goes through the bridge pickup and how much bypasses it.

Attachment 39081
The 220K resistor is added in the series mode to reduce the pot's resistance across the pickup and flatten the taper of the pot. This makes the bypass/fade control a bit more progressive and less 'all or nothing'. I did some tests during the week with a 250K pot both with and without the resistor, and I definitely preferred it with. But, if you want you can just omit it from the layout and it will still work. (Note: the resistor image used in the diagram has 150K bands, but 220KΩ is correct value to use)

Just another option if you want something different.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by WeirdBits

The SD diagram in your earlier post is the standard way of doing parallel/series switching. With the push pull 'up' the pups are linked in series and the neck volume works as a master, with the bridge volume having no effect.

The following layout is a little different. When in series mode the neck volume still works as the master but the bridge volume allows you to fade/bypass some/all of the bridge pickup giving you a bit more control over the series sound. The idea is to make it still loud but a little less boomy, and allow you to mix in some of the bridge treble without going full on. Essentially the bridge volume will control how much signal goes through the bridge pickup and how much bypasses it.

Attachment 39081
The 220K resistor is added in the series mode to reduce the pot's resistance across the pickup and flatten the taper of the pot. This makes the bypass/fade control a bit more progressive and less 'all or nothing'. I did some tests during the week with a 250K pot both with and without the resistor, and I definitely preferred it with. But, if you want you can just omit it from the layout and it will still work. (Note: the resistor image used in the diagram has 150K bands, but 220KΩ is correct value to use)

Just another option if you want something different.

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Woo hoo...wicked wiring....off to jaycar I go.

The beige carbon film ones are okay to use?

Thanks again for you support of my tendencies. 😎

Quote:

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The beige carbon film ones are okay to use?

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I'll qualify this by first saying my depth of electronic knowledge is a shallow well, but in a basic passive guitar circuit, metal film or carbon film resistors will be virtually indistinguishable with our ears.

There are countless threads online debating this subject (just like "the great capacitor debate") and will probably continue until the end of time.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by McCreed

I'll qualify this by first saying my depth of electronic knowledge is a shallow well, but in a basic passive guitar circuit, metal film or carbon film resistors will be virtually indistinguishable with our ears.

There are countless threads online debating this subject (just like "the great capacitor debate") and will probably continue until the end of time.

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Thank you, jaycar has both the beige carbon and blue metal ones listed. I shall get my carbon film ones on Monday. :)

I actually tipped all three tru oil bottles I have with me upside down yesterday. This morning I found some non clumpy stuff in one......nice.

So the neck now has one coat of the Colortone Vintage Amber....light...and then one soak coat of Tru Oil. It can wait now until the ordered Tru Oil arrives from PBG next week.

I have to say that the light tint under Tru Oil looks pretty good.

I have been very picky this time with the body finish before I let loose with the stain/burst....maybe it is just nerves. :)

But it now has no scratch marks that I can get out nor see left behind. There are the normal ones in tight on the two cut out areas around the neck pocket. I have been over them five times and they are not moving.....so they can be character marks.

Looking good Ozzie.

I usually use 80 or 120 grit to get all the scratches and machine marks out and then 180 to take out any surface scratching done by coarse grits, particularly on stubborn areas like end grains and inner horn curves.

For what it is worth I reckon go the same colour for neck & body. Blonde nudie would look wicked. Really happy with how my MMB4 turned out as it was Basswood too but with Rosewood fretboard.

Cheers, Waz

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wazkelly

Looking good Ozzie.

I usually use 80 or 120 grit to get all the scratches and machine marks out and then 180 to take out any surface scratching done by coarse grits, particularly on stubborn areas like end grains and inner horn curves.

For what it is worth I reckon go the same colour for neck & body. Blonde nudie would look wicked. Really happy with how my MMB4 turned out as it was Basswood too but with Rosewood fretboard.

Cheers, Waz

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The shellac I made is way too strong. The stain did not have a chance to soak into the body. I did 180 and then 240 grit by hand this afternoon...but....

I don’t know it still looks a little shiny. The ubeat usage guide does not use a sanding sealer....rather sand to 400 with no pore filler either. But they recommend a wetting down process, and warming the dye/water mix before applying.

Hmmmm....maybe go back to 80 grit and start again for me. I do like the tone in the grain from timbermate....but I think the shellac may be left out this time. Maybe do as the instructions say and go to 400 grit....which seems awfully shiny and smooth itself.

Big D did say he went to 400 in one part of his video....but then said 320 in another.

Oh well trial time again I suppose.

Inset mad laugh.....ha ha ha .......I think it is alive.

This was tricky...thanks weirdy...I enjoyed the challenge.

We have two orange plastic covered earth wires hanging loose on top. One for the pickup cavity and one for the bridge.

The resistor was easy...but wow you popped in some multi wire joints in that push pull pot. I did cheat a little and use some capacitor leads to make a little jumper style connection. :)

Let us see if I got all the connections when I plug it in....no no no...no looking...no multi-meter. :)

EDIT:- Note to all....anybody fitting push pull pots, or as in my Tele with a Bigsby build, a non box style three position lever switch....the depth of the control cavity is not enough. I am going to have to dremel a little out of the bottom to allow both to fit.

i did shellac on my MBM build, i went for 10 grams shellac flakes to 100ml of ethanol, then added stain.
i let it sit for 24 hours with mixing and then strained it through mesh and sprayed it using a wall sprayer without a compressor

i did 2 coats of each color for the burst i wanted, and then i did 4 or 5 coats of clear shellac (some of them with a brush) all from the same batch.

this actually worked out quite well, and it was on an ash body that i grain-filled first

Quote:

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Originally Posted by arie_shapira

i did shellac on my MBM build, i went for 10 grams shellac flakes to 100ml of ethanol, then added stain.
i let it sit for 24 hours with mixing and then strained it through mesh and sprayed it using a wall sprayer without a compressor

i did 2 coats of each color for the burst i wanted, and then i did 4 or 5 coats of clear shellac (some of them with a brush) all from the same batch.

this actually worked out quite well, and it was on an ash body that i grain-filled first

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Nice work......I just want to get the hand rubbed water based dye finish I have seen so many others achieve.

I have used the shellac as a body sealer prior to alcohol based stains without any issue......alcohol is the key there I think.

I think I will have to sand the body pretty heavily and then reduce the ratio of the shellac to alcohol to even out the colour of the water based stain.