SG-2 by Nitroburner1000

Max suggested having it so that you have it so that you get the rails in series, rails in parallel and the single coil on its own. Or you could try one of the blades plus the single coil for a mismatched humbucker, though there's no guarantee that it will be particularly quiet.

The single coil and the outer blade (Coils 1 and 3) would give a fatter humbucker sound than twin blades would, but unfortunately the north/south magnet polarity means that you'd need to use the inside blade and the single coil (coils 2 and 3) to get a humbucking configuration. This would give a slightly wider gap between the coils than you get with the blades, and for the bridge pickup, the sensed string area is a bit further away from the bridge, so the lower harmonics of notes will be a bit stronger too, making it sound a bit fatter.

The thoughts of having all three coils in non-humbucking series at a 20k-ish resistance filled him with horror (and he has designed a couple of pickups for Fender and Kent Armstrong).

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Originally Posted by Simon Barden

Max suggested having it so that you have it so that you get the rails in series, rails in parallel and the single coil on its own. Or you could try one of the blades plus the single coil for a mismatched humbucker, though there's no guarantee that it will be particularly quiet.

The single coil and the outer blade (Coils 1 and 3) would give a fatter humbucker sound than twin blades would, but unfortunately the north/south magnet polarity means that you'd need to use the inside blade and the single coil (coils 2 and 3) to get a humbucking configuration. This would give a slightly wider gap between the coils than you get with the blades, and for the bridge pickup, the sensed string area is a bit further away from the bridge, so the lower harmonics of notes will be a bit stronger too, making it sound a bit fatter.

The thoughts of having all three coils in non-humbucking series at a 20k-ish resistance filled him with horror (and he has designed a couple of pickups for Fender and Kent Armstrong).

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Cheers Simon, ill post you a pic of my wiring diagram and see if you can take a look at it and maybe draw me the variation that your mate max suggests, thats if its not too much trouble or just tell me what to do on mine and ill try to do the rewiring, thanks.

Edit..... Heres a pic, volume wires need correcting though
Attachment 15524

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Originally Posted by wazkelly

Hi Nitro, Simon is right in that it is easy to flip the orientation provided there is enough cable length and the PUP rout is deep enough to bring the cable down from the low E side.

Hmmm, Multimeters? I am no expert either but there should be a section that measures impedance and on mine I just kept flicking the rotary switch until it started giving me a reading and then moved it a couple more notches until I found something that gave a set of numbers that made sense - anything from 6.0 up to 15.0 or maybe even higher on these bad boys.

Edit: when doing the coil splitting on Entwistles and Toneriders they specifically mentioned splitting to screws on one and slugs on the other as this gives slightly different sounds - Slugs on the Bridge & Screws on the Neck. When I did the Splits on the EX-5 humbuckers it did not like the opposing wiring and ended up doing them the same. You may be in for a bit of experimentation before you get the sounds you want and which way they are facing may not have as much of an impact to their sound.

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Ok thanks will have a play around.

Seems that what my mate Max suggested requires more than a DPDT switch to do. He was talking about PRS style rotary selector switches. So unless you want to get very complicated, I'd probably stick to what you've got - humbucker, single coil and humbucker and single coil in parallel. I'll have a look at your hand-drawn wiring diagram as you seem to have some ground connections missing (or at least not indicated) and I'm not 100% sure about the colours tying in with the descriptions in the data sheet and the original wiring diagram you found.

No, your diagram is correct (I needed my glasses on to see it in more detail) - with the exception of your switch position explanation. Like any 3-way pickup selector switch, the middle position will be both pickups selected i.e. single coil and humbucker in parallel, whilst the outer positions will be humbucker only and single coil only.

If you are using the standard kit 3-position pickup selector switch, then you might benefit from some reduced noise pick-up by running a ground wire to the switch casing connection.

I've also just realised that the single coil pickup has staggered height pole pieces. So to keep the single coil sound balanced, you're best keeping the pickups the way you've got them in your photos.

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Originally Posted by Simon Barden

I've also just realised that the single coil pickup has staggered height pole pieces. So to keep the single coil sound balanced, you're best keeping the pickups the way you've got them in your photos.

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Cheers mate

a mega job Nitro, a very cool beast indeed

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Originally Posted by Simon Barden

No, your diagram is correct (I needed my glasses on to see it in more detail) - with the exception of your switch position explanation. Like any 3-way pickup selector switch, the middle position will be both pickups selected i.e. single coil and humbucker in parallel, whilst the outer positions will be humbucker only and single coil only.

If you are using the standard kit 3-position pickup selector switch, then you might benefit from some reduced noise pick-up by running a ground wire to the switch casing connection.

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The switch explanation is for the mini on on on switches not the main pickup selector, as that is standard on all 3 way switches

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Originally Posted by stan

a mega job Nitro, a very cool beast indeed

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Appreciate that Stan, enjoying every minute of it