SG-2 by Nitroburner1000

Waz, from the Warman web site, they only make one version of the pickup, so it's not bridge/neck specific. http://www.warmanguitars.co.uk/produ...hybrid-pickup/.

But they do have this picture of the pickup on the website with the lettering such that it looks like a bridge version.

Attachment 15518

So, it's down to the user to decide which way fits/looks/sounds best. But if you are going to rotate the bridge pickup, then it might look a bit funny with the name on backwards compared to the other one - which is mainly why I suggested removing the labels.

Just been looking at the SD site, and looking at their humbuckers with slugs and screws, the cable always comes out of the left-hand side of the screw bobbin (if the screw bobbin is uppermost). So on the neck pickup, it comes out on the side furthest away from the controls; on the bridge it comes out on the side nearest the controls. This is the same as on a set of Toneriders on a guitar I've just been working on.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Simon Barden

Waz, from the Warman web site, they only make one version of the pickup, so it's not bridge/neck specific. http://www.warmanguitars.co.uk/produ...hybrid-pickup/.

But they do have this picture of the pickup on the website with the lettering such that it looks like a bridge version.

Attachment 15518

So, it's down to the user to decide which way fits/looks/sounds best. But if you are going to rotate the bridge pickup, then it might look a bit funny with the name on backwards compared to the other one - which is mainly why I suggested removing the labels.

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Yes removing the labels would be a good idea, but im still not quite sure which way up they go, when i asked warman guitars about them he said that you can use two g rails in the one guitar. Would it make much difference polarity wize which way up they are?

No, there's no polarity difference by simply rotating the pickups. The outputs would still have the same phase. You'd need to flip the magnets over to change the phase.

Apart from taking the strings off to do it, it's easy to rotate a pickup after the guitar is completed. I'd wait until then before deciding on your final configuration. You just leave enough cable spare to do this.

Hi Nitro, Simon is right in that it is easy to flip the orientation provided there is enough cable length and the PUP rout is deep enough to bring the cable down from the low E side.

Hmmm, Multimeters? I am no expert either but there should be a section that measures impedance and on mine I just kept flicking the rotary switch until it started giving me a reading and then moved it a couple more notches until I found something that gave a set of numbers that made sense - anything from 6.0 up to 15.0 or maybe even higher on these bad boys.

Edit: when doing the coil splitting on Entwistles and Toneriders they specifically mentioned splitting to screws on one and slugs on the other as this gives slightly different sounds - Slugs on the Bridge & Screws on the Neck. When I did the Splits on the EX-5 humbuckers it did not like the opposing wiring and ended up doing them the same. You may be in for a bit of experimentation before you get the sounds you want and which way they are facing may not have as much of an impact to their sound.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Simon Barden

No, there's no polarity difference by simply rotating the pickups. The outputs would still have the same phase. You'd need to flip the magnets over to change the phase.

Apart from taking the strings off to do it, it's easy to rotate a pickup after the guitar is completed. I'd wait until then before deciding on your final configuration. You just leave enough cable spare to do this.

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Thats cool, i dont usually cut the cables anyways, makes it easier to pull apart if need be.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wazkelly

Hi Nitro, Simon is right in that it is easy to flip the orientation provided there is enough cable length and the PUP rout is deep enough to bring the cable down from the low E side.

Hmmm, Multimeters? I am no expert either but there should be a section that measures impedance and on mine I just kept flicking the rotary switch until it started giving me a reading and then moved it a couple more notches until I found something that gave a set of numbers that made sense - anything from 6.0 up to 15.0 or maybe even higher on these bad boys.

Edit: when doing the coil splitting on Entwistles and Toneriders they specifically mentioned splitting to screws on one and slugs on the other as this gives slightly different sounds - Slugs on the Bridge & Screws on the Neck. When I did the Splits on the EX-5 humbuckers it did not like the opposing wiring and ended up doing them the same. You may be in for a bit of experimentation before you get the sounds you want and which way they are facing may not have as much of an impact to their sound.

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ok, cheers. Im going withe warmans standard 3 way split wiring diagram first then i might experiment. will leave out the phase reversal switch though.

That makes sense.

Linear taper for Volume and Audio for Tone is odd as it is usually the other way around? I tend to use Audio for everything (volume & tone) as the roll off is not as savage and feels more progressive plus if you cook one when soldering not such a big deal if you have plenty of the same on hand as backups.

Yes, I think that diagram is wrong as well. Doesn't matter about what the pickups are, it's the matching of the output level changes to the way the ear hears volume changes that's important, and for that you need a Log/Audio pot (the 'Audio' in the name gives it away).

Definitely log for volume, linear for tone.

Here's the Warman G-Rails pickup spec sheet. This gives the coil resistances.

http://www.warmanguitars.co.uk/wp-co...man_G-rail.pdf

I'm not sure if your pickups already have some wired twisted together, but the Warman diagram lists six wires (plus a ground wire) coming from it, whilst their diagram only show 4 wires plus what must be the shield, and seems to be missing the red and white wires - which must be pre-connected. The spec sheet says that the brown wire is pre-soldered to the ground/shield, but to implement the wiring diagram as shown, it must be separated.

This pickup is actually more complicated to wire than I thought. Because the twin rails is a humbucker in it's own right, adding in the single coil can either be done in parallel (thinner sound), or in series (thicker sound). Neither of these modes is likely to be fully hum-cancelling, simply because you've got three coils (and you need pairs of balanced coils to cancel hum). In theory the output from the humbucker rails should already have any noise cancelled out, so when added to the signal from single coil, there's no opposite-phase noise signal to react with. Because the overall output signal is stronger than the single coil on its own, the noise level will be reduced, but not fully negated.

I'll ask my mate Max if he has any suggestions (though he'll probably just say to stick switches everywhere so that all combinations are possible).