Not sure. It doesn’t say finishing on it but says compound. Not sure where to go from here though.
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Not sure. It doesn’t say finishing on it but says compound. Not sure where to go from here though.
I’ll have to google and have a look at the product description, but I think it’s a finishing rather than a cutting product. You won’t hurt anything using a cut compound now and then going back to this. You are fairly unlikely to polish through the clear by hand, assuming you have decent coverage. The surface looks pretty reasonable so you are only needing to take out the finer scratches. You’d probably get away with a cut and polish like Kitten No.2 ( but there are loads of different brands that are similar products)
I’ll look up ultimate when I get on my main computer for work.
Thanks SM appreciate the help.
Ok yes, Ultimate Compound is a cutting compound. So with a lot more elbow grease it should work fine. Those buffing pads you have are great, I use them in the final stages usually. As I mentioned before you really don't want to use any pressure, just the weight of your hand resting on the pad and a moving circular motion where possible. The pad and compound will do the work, if you push down you are likely adding abrasion from the pad (even though they are really soft).
You could potentially speed the process up by going back a step in the cutting grade, but there is nothing wrong with just persevering. I normally use a machine buffer and only do the final buff by hand which speeds things up a lot.
For future reference in this thread I have my current buffing setup, compound/polish/scratch X and a buffing machine. You can see the results pretty well, black is a bugger to get swirl free. There are better options for the buffer, I know Phrozin has a really neat smaller one with interchangeable foam pads which is better than my cheapy.
https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...?t=9001&page=4
Thanks SC. I’ll just have to give it more time by the sounds of it. I was using circular motions where possible but probably pressing too hard so will back off in the pressure and give it more time for the compound to do its thing and see how I go. Hopefully I’m able to correct any scratches I may have introduced. The guy I bought the compound from said there was no need for scratch x but it seems a lot of people use it at the end so not sure if I should buy that as well. Also a lot of talk around it containing silicon?
Wow that black came out nice! People on here do awesome finishes!
Yep goodo. I think with a bit of patience and correct technique it will come up fine. It is a heck of a lot of work by hand, so don't get discouraged.
I like scratch X but it is definitely different to other polishing compounds. I would just keep going with the Ultimate for now and see.
Not sure regarding the silicone, can't see anything on the packet. It seems strange, as silicone is a right pain in the arse if you ever need to respray, it's very difficult to clean off entirely and paint refuses to stick if there is any residue. So in an automotive setting, I can see people wanting to steer clear if that is the case.
I haven't had any issues, but I also haven't repainted anything I've polished with it.
Yeah I think I did the first attempt too quickly as I was so stressed about taking too much clear coat off but I guess that what the first build is all about.....learning.
I’ll work on it tonight or tomorrow and just see how it goes.
Yeah I saw something about it being the new scratch x (maybe 2.0) compared to the old formulae. Hard to know as there is so much out in the web it’s hard to know what to follow.
Thanks for your help...until I hit the next hurdle 😊
Hi a_novice, I’m currently using that Ultimate Compound on wipe on poly using cheap eBay sponge pads with a base that attaches to a drill. It’s come up like glass without a swirly mark to be seen. Paint maybe a different story, I simply don’t know.
Hey DM, I used sca spray cans for the paint job and maybe the swirls are I the paint not clear. I’ll find out tonight after another go with better technique. Sounds like user error! 😊 good to know though that others have used this product with good results.Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkMark
Bear in mind that once this guitar becomes the 'hard-to-put-down' instrument, the paint will start narrating a story.
Fender has a department that specialises in accelerating this appearance.
cheers, Mark.
that is so true...i have marks on my other guitars that i used to be worried about getting, but now they provide almost a feeling of comfort and familiarity that i enjoy. Its nice to pick up a guitar thats been used for sometime and see how it tells its own story just on looks.
Thanks SonicMountain and DarkMark, i've taken you awesome advice and run over the body again and loving the results. The scratches have definitely reduced and i am tempted to give it one more going over tomorrow but really happy with results after changing technique and keeping at it. I've attached a couple of pics...with the only thing i'm disappointed about being the small chip i managed just up on the edge of neck pocket after testing the neck out for how it may look. Will probably just put some white paint dropped on with cotton bud or something to make it less obvious, otherwise very happy.
Hey hey! That's looking mint
Thanks Backersdozen.
Looks unreal! Glad you had some success with a revised polishing technique, I'm sure your arms are feeling it.
Wax on, wax off :D
Shame about the chip, but honestly, these things happen. If it were me I'd push on with the rest of the build and come back to it later, but you'll get away with a small drop fill. I'd spray some of the paint you have used into the cap and then use something pointy and non porus like a clean nail to scoop up a blob and drop it on. If you do, resist the urge to fiddle with it. Get a decent drop on, hopefully just filling the chip and just leave it to flatten out and dry. You''ll end up with a better result. If you fiddle, you'll end up making a bigger mess.
Very sage adviceQuote:
Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain
Thanks SonicMountain.
You be, my arms are still burning! I ended up with none of the karate skills as promised by Mr Miyagi either!
Thanks for the advice on the drop fill, makes complete sense to use something non porus now that you mention it. I'll come back to it like you said. I figure i'll start on shielding the cavities as well as installing the bridge posts and springs in the back. Hopefully by then the headstock will be ready to wet sand and polish and i can finally move onto the tru oil for the neck.
WOW! Yeah Yeah mate that is looking the business now! Great perseverance there Novice, you've done well.
Or did you???????Quote:
Originally Posted by a_novice
Thanks FW.
LOL....if i did, i certainly can't tell.
Just wait till he starts karate chopping planks into guitar body sized portions.Attachment 30115
Ah yes, the old Bruce Lee "Enter the Dragon" body suit. Now i just need to knock out a PRS style kit with my bare hands and numb chucks...STAND BACK! lol
Looking great. I did mine in all black, but white was a very close second - followed by fluorescent yellow or pink of course!
Hey Novice, don't feel alone with your sand-thru...was being super careful and this just happened tonight flattening some paint not clearhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1f16cf6174.jpg
Black was my second choice, lol.
I feel bad saying this but it’s nice to know I’m not alone with sand-throughs. Just looking at all the builds I have much to learn. Everyone here does such an amazing job!
Advice needed on crack! Started to tap in the first bridge peg and noticed a hairline crack appear across the grain! So I stopped, pulled the peg out and took the attached pic. You can see a hairline on the top bit it only goes down about 1mm so managed to stop before i did anything too major.
I did check the hole size by putting the peg in by hand and it seemed tight but started to go in so thought it would be ok to tap in, obviously not.
I was thinking of sanding a little just to make the hole slightly larger...but how to handle the crack and stop it from getting worse, especially if I'm bending the bridge back and forth when playing over time??
I also have a round file that i can use just to get a little extra room.
Thoughts?
For the crack, get some thin super glue and what they call a whip tail, it’s like a thin piece of plastic flexible rod that goes in the end.
you can use that to wick some of the super glue into the crack to stabilise it.
I’d be really careful about widening the hole, I’d be more inclined to get some wax and lubricate the anchor before putting it in.
Give the glue overnight to set and cure before you do it though.
Thanks for the advice FW, I hadn’t thought of that but will give that a go.
Also put the post receivers in the freezer for 20mins before tapping them in. Plus some wax and they should go in easily. Then the will warm up, expand and seat themselves.
Thanks SM. I definitely wouldn’t have thought of that! Just hope the hairline crack doesn’t worsen over time with all those dive bombs in hanging out to do with the FR!
UPDATE: I tried one of the pegs in the freezer and it went in! Tried without the wax first to see if it would work and i was able to put in by hand for half of it and tapped in lightly for the rest, with no crack (so far). I was looking at the other one and the more i look the more it seems to be a crack in the clear coat rather than the wood, but not 100% sure.
Like re-tuning do ya?🤣😜Quote:
Originally Posted by a_novice
lol...Being a fixed bridge guy all my life i'm keen to try something new, and with all that re-tuning ahead the excitement may wear off pretty quickly...hahahaha...out comes the whammy bar and the FR is just for looks....
Just after some advice on installing the spring claw.
1. Do i install with the screw hole side flat against the wall of the cavity? or
2. Do in stall with the bottom flat against the bottom of the cavity? or
3. It makes no difference?
Also should the screws go in straight / flat or on a slight downward angle?
You want to get the screws in as flat as you can. If possible, pre drill.
the claw isn’t designed to sit hard up against the wall, it should sit on the rear of the screw heads.
you might have as much as 15 mm of screw exposed once it’s all set up and then you adjust as needed against the string tension to get the trek level.
Thanks FW. Yeah i only put up against the wall to show the difference of where i would have to screw / drill. So is it best to just centre the holes in both directions and go from there? At least then the claw shouldn't be on such an angle as it pops through the top of the cavity?
Correct,, that’s how I’ve done it on mine and it sits nicely below the cover plate, which I also recessed.
Awesome, thanks FW. Get this in and i can think about lining up the neck and doing those screw holes.
Now that i have the neck installed, i'm not 100% happy with the fit. Its really nice and tight (super happy with this) but there is still a 1 to 1.5mm gap between bottom of neck and the top of the pocket.
Could this be because the screw holes in the body are too small and not pulling the neck into the body properly? Things seemed to be flat with no rubbish in the pocket so not sure if screw holes or i guess just needs a little sanding to cater for a slight slant??
Thought i might add a sneak peak at how its coming together...with next steps around fret levelling and cleaning etc before putting scratch plate back on and soldering. Bridge claw installed so just need to sit the bridge in when ready to string. Might put a string retainer in too.
You’ll really want the string retainer bar, it helps keep tuning relatively stable. Unless you are dive bombing like a Stuka Squadron!