Personal record keeping.
Neck and body 39 coats.
First 2000 grit wet sand.
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Personal record keeping.
Neck and body 39 coats.
First 2000 grit wet sand.
45 coats. I’d probably stop now, but I dropped my sharp edged metal rule on the face of it about six coats ago. With some spot fixing the gash is about filled now but I have to do some sanding and more coats to level the area.
Nooooooooooooooooooooooooo!
I dropped my PRS body on its back and put too big a dent in it. tried to tru oil it back but its just too big!:mad:
Still it turned out okay.....shhh only I notice it.:eek:
I’ve found this wipe on poly easier to spot fix with than Tru Oil which Seemed to take longer to harden. I guess this kind of thing happens to us all
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy40
Oooh. Bugger. That's the kind of ding that nags at you. I dropped the neck across the top of my Reso and left a line of shallow fret dents over the face near the horns. They steamed out mostly but Igor tells me they are still there.
Play it a lot and you can say it’s buckle rash.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy40
51 coats and I think that will be enough (I wonder what the Pitbull record is?).
I’m ready to stop now. I believe three weeks is the recommended waiting period before polishing. I have micro mesh up to 12,000. Is there any benefit in using a cutting compound after the micro mesh and before polishing? What do people like to do after the final 2,000 wet sand?
loving this thread. The guitar looks wonderful - All these terms that I have NO IDEA what they mean. I guess I'll find out on my own build. thanks Dark Mark
Much appreciated BuffaloGhost and don’t worry, you’ll learn the terminology. Feel free to ask about anything you don’t understand.Quote:
Originally Posted by BuffaloGhost
I didn’t think I could play a hollow body guitar without a scratch plate. Turns out I was wrong. I place my fingers on the body as a reference point for position and height and find my hand is in a more natural position/shape compared with resting on a scratch plate. My playing has improved as a result. Now I feel like I can’t play a guitar with a scratch plate...go figure.
Anyhow, I got myself a rosewood covered pickup ring and thought to myself, ‘using my remaining piece of rosewood veneer to make a scratch plate would really look the part.’ Of course I can’t do that now.
I did a semi mock build tonight and it just didn’t look right with the gold tailpiece. I checked eBay for wooden tailpieces, found one for $80. So, I’m thinking of making some kind of wood cover to sit over/incorporate into the gold tailpiece.
This is what I mean.
Does it need more wood? While I’m at it, I lemon oiled the fret board today.
Beautiful DM!
The wood is just speaking for itself, I only clear coated it. I think I’ve got a wood tailpiece idea happening.Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
I'd leave the gold tailpiece. It's less of a distraction from the natural colour IMO. But do what YOU like, it's your baby and it looks fantastic so far.
You mean something like this?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...938bf6003c.jpg
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
I must admit it doesn’t look too bad in that photo, but up close I feel like it clashes with the pickup ring as it it quite dark.Quote:
Originally Posted by ILRGuitars
I would think it ties the darker wood elenents together quite well, Fretboard, through to bridge to tailpiece.
if you can find a piece that mimics the grain of the board even better, id also be tempted to insure that the cap nuts on the trapeze are hidden behind the cover, if you go that way.
Yes, something like that. After losing sleep thinking about it all night I think I’ll do a rounded end, even though I like the harp shape very very much.Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
Missed this reply... I think we are pretty much in arrangement. If I had done a scratch plate I would of left the gold tailpiece... I think.Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
I love it, and that tailpiece
Ok, looks like I’m making a tailpiece. Good old Dad came over and helped me build a work bench out of an old jarrah pergola I pulled down years ago. Still got some waste jarrah (if there really is such a thing). Hello jarrah!
Enjoy sharpening your tools! I had an attempt at a jarrah sg body in high school, I spent more time sharpening plane blades and the like than I did building it.Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkMark
Two nouns that don’t belong together in a sentence, “Jarrah” and “Hand saw”.Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
I hacked my body blank out of recycled jarrah wharf stringers. I had to sharpen two chainsaw chains, a table saw blade and a bandsaw blade. I’m not going to quantify how many times I sharpened plane blades and carving chisels, it was a lot. If you attacked it with a handsaw and you made any progress with it, you’ve got my respectQuote:
Originally Posted by DarkMark
I could get about 3/4 of the way through with a hand held circular saw and finished off with the hand saw. Took me about seven attempts to get something I might be able to work with.Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽👍🏾👏🏾Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkMark
Watched a YouTube video of a guy talking about violin tailpieces. Apparently the ideal position for the string end of the tailpiece from the bridge is 1/6th the distance of the nut to the bridge. I did not know that. He didn’t go into much depth as to the reason apart for saying it deadens the string if the tailpiece is too close to the bridge. Just measured it on the ES-5V, seems to follow the rule.
Tailpiece idea pending on how I solve the hinge problem...and before anybody else says it, I’ll be using wood, not graph paper.
Hinge? Just nail it to the top. ;)
You could always cut down a flat metal hinged tail piece (not the rod type that you've already got), so you could glue + screw the metal piece underneath the wood.
But as you are going for a tailpiece where the strings drop in from the top, then you don't really need a hinge as such (as you won't need to lift the tailpiece to help slot the strings through the holes), just a metal bracket bent to an appropriate angle.
In fact, looking around for a suitable example I came across this, which might give you some ideas: http://www.victorbakerguitars.com/bl...tar-tailpiece/
Hi Simon,Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
I think I’ve come to the same conclusion. Last night I ordered brass 300 x 19 x 1.6 mm. I was thinking of bending and attaching as you suggested. With that length and width I might even be able to attach an undercarriage strip to anchor the string ends. It won’t take long to arrive so I’ll think about it some more when I see what l am dealing with.
PS I’ve been unable to source a brass hinge thick enough for the job.
Making good progress while I’m on leave and looking after the junior DarkMark and DarkMarkess during the school holidays.
Looks fantastic mate
Thanks, more work to do on it yet but phase one complete. It’s actually a little shorter than I planned, never mind.Quote:
Originally Posted by Richy17
Yes, never mind, I’ll just do it all over again. I took my measurements from the tailpiece but didn’t take into account that the bracket overhangs the body by a couple of cm’s. Got time and couldn’t live with myself knowing I had got it wrong. What a donkey!
These things are sent to try us, but this is shaping up beautifully. :)
Ha, thanks. Tested and failed I think.Quote:
Originally Posted by blinddrew
My brass was too soft to use as a bracket, I was able to bend it with my hands. Brought a heavy duty strap hinge, primer and shiny gold paint from the big green shed. Unfortunately the shiny gold paint will rub off onto my fingers on my test piece. Heading back there today to ignore their recommendations and buy the (much cheaper) paint I went to buy in the first place. Shame, the shiny gold paint was a perfect match.
Hi DM, I haven’t been on here for a while and just read your thread, I like that natural look. I was wondering what brand of wipe on poly you used and what’s the dry time between coats? I have done two guitars with rattle cans and thought I might give the wipe on a go.
Hi Wayne, I’m using Feast Watson wipe on poly. I haven’t got to the polishing stage yet so I can’t recommend it or discredit it at this stage, but it’s been good to work with so far.Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayne.Mumford
Drying time at 25 degrees and 50% humidity.
Touch dry 2 hours.
Recoat 6 hours.
Clean up Mineral turpentine.
I look forward to following your 12 string diary.
Next build I’m only going to do two coats of satin on the neck and leave it at that. It’s the perfect feel for me and hopefully it will be enough to protect the wood.
looking real nice.