Attachment 29075 now some white
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Attachment 29075 now some white
Ooooh, nice.
Attachment 29095Attachment 29096 ive sanded back the white wash and done anothe thin coat its made the hit and miss of the black sanding back really show
Attachment 29102Attachment 29103 the flash on the camera changes the look
wow it really does change the look! I like the white coming through.
I'm not really liking the look of this, thinking about sanding at all back and going black
I'd sleep on it as that weathered look is great, but yeah, sg's do look great in black as well.....
It looked best just before white wash was applied.
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I think mahogany being a harder timber doesnt really grain pop too good. Lesson learnt
Attachment 29115 back in black the white wash looked terrible
Good call I tried something similar on a telecaster good in theory but the whitewash just didn’t take
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sometimes you gotta go back to move forward. Loving this build btw.👍🏾Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam Barnes
Attachment 29133Attachment 29134Attachment 29135Attachment 29136Attachment 29137 I'm happy with the look now so first coat of tung oil this afternoon
Thinking about it (with obvious hindsight), it might have been better to do the white first, then try and grain fill with black filler over the top. You may then have needed another white coat after sanding back. There are enough small pores in mahogany to show the grain pattern and make it look interesting (like a Gibson 'TV yellow' finish), but it hasn't got the cross-grain figuring that flame or quilted maple has to take up a darker colour for 'popping'.
http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...5&d=1543138271
That looks great!
Thanks simon. After looking at my other builds i don't think mahogany is really suitable for grain popping Attachment 29157 same process on basewood Attachment 29158and the mahogany its all a learning curveQuote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
Attachment 29290Attachment 29291Attachment 29292 all polished up and shiny, ready to start work on the frets but ive got 2 frets that have lifted and need to be glued back down. Anyone got any tips
Attachment 29296Attachment 29297 now i need to decide between black or crome
Check your slot depth and the roll radius you used, I typically roll them a bit tighter than the board radius whic seems to help the seat tight at the ends.Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam Barnes
There actually loose i can push the up and down, ive seen a few you tube vids were tthe use super glue to re seat the fret, looking at the photo theres actually 4 sitting highQuote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
If they are that loose then you will likely need to use superglue to get them to stay put. It's not something I've had to do (yet) but it is fairly common. I'd imagine clean up would be a bit of a beeeatch after though.
So had a go at using dingo wax on the fretboard then super glue on the fret seems tohave held the fret and allowed me to scrape the super glue of easily
Attachment 29393Attachment 29394 installed some vintage style tuners with some black bushings
You always have an interesting style of dyeing guitars Barnsey. Its very unique:)
Thanks andy. I fitted some of the hardware tonight, im waiting on a black roller bridge to turn up Attachment 29398
Frets levelled and polished, first look at the red fret board with the black finish on the body Attachment 29456 Attachment 29457
Ahhh the wait.......actually postage has been pretty fast lately.
Attachment 29579Attachment 29580all strung up just the wiring to go
👍 This is a truly unique build.
So I'm having dramas with the wiring. I had it all working outside of the guitar then when i tried to fit it the thread on the pot and jack plug weren't long enough. Sorted that out and redid the wiring and now ive got no sound, the current tester is reading 15 plus from all active points to an earth point so I'm a bit stumped as to whats wrong Attachment 29659 the pic has te active on the jack tip and earth to one of the pickup slugs Attachment 29660
Working outside the cavity but not working installed is often caused by copper shielding shorting a hot. In cases where the pot thread only just fits through the body the underside of the pot lug board is a prime candidate to be squeezed onto the copper and short. Insulating tape over the copper under that area is a good precaution and/or cure.
May be worth a check.
Thanks scott, but no sheilding tape as the the body is semi hollow. Culprit has been found we played a gig just before Christmas and looks like ive fried my leads 😁, (my ears were ringing the next day) pluged in 2 other guitars and nothing found a pit bull lead still in the packet and everything works, so ive been pulling it apart for 2 weeks because of dodgy leads. Doh
That’s gold! Two weeks frustration because you rocked too hard and fried your leads!🤪😂🤣🤣 absolute classic!Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam Barnes
Oh dear Adam.. lol. Funny but sooo frustrating.
Attachment 29700Attachment 29700Attachment 29701Attachment 29702Attachment 29703 my first scratch build is all togather and working, im pretty chuffed that i built this from 3 sticks of timber into a playable guitar. Intonation is all good, pickups sound great, the on off on coil split switch works. The only fault is the neck is a bit thick but i can alwats tack some more off and re coat with oil when i get a chance. The wife was very happy to see it gone from the kitchen table after 3 months and hung up with the others.
I learnt so much on this, and its a great feeling to hear something ive made make sound
Great work mate. and accomplishment. Although a classic design, looks unique