Thanks Waz, it was a good little exercise, tad bit nerve wracking though.
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The other little fix needed; when lining up the PUP two holes were in the right spot and two weren’t.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e931b81859.jpg
Errant holes filled, ready to be re drilled for accurate positioning.
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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...825701d13c.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a056584ed0.jpg
Well, we are committed to staying the course now! Damned Igor!
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Nice to see some movement on this one Frank.
Goddamn Igor!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...147260ae80.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d1f67e8f06.jpg
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Envy. You have a new hub cap for the body-snatcher cart.
cheers, Mark.
So we set up and went for it on the preamp mounting.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7046660624.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...19641aabb7.jpg
The template was attached on packers to the taped off body by the masking tape and CA glue trick. This is not an approach for the faint of heart or weak of bladder!
So we ended up with this:
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There are three cables that run off of this, the feed from the piezo, the battery cable and the jack cable. I toyed with the idea of running them straight down into the pup cavity and through the hole I’d drilled for the pup leads but elected to punch straight through to the soundwell instead.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d4da5ae061.jpg
Now I will need to sort out the cover plate and it’s mounting, then deal wth the battery box rout and all of the assorted electrickery that goes along with them.
Then, we will think about it’s headstock shape.
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always inspirational to see your projects Frankie.
Nice progress!
So the battery box rout was next on the agenda.
I jigged up for this, made a tight fit template as below
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...417bf4127c.jpg
The battery box needed a 1 1/4” deep cavity, so I started by hogging out with brad points to roughly the right depth. Then I went in with a 3/8” short follow bit. This got me about 3/4” in to where I needed to be
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b60ab44eb8.jpg
To get to the right depth I had to then change to a longer bit, so the first cut went fine, but then utter disaster!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...49a8a1e8d9.jpg
The longer bit grabbed, and due to the very fibrous nature of the timber it ripped up both the body and my template.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...66e0f9e378.jpg
Thankfully the template prevented the bit from ripping through the side of the body but it is going to need some serious bogging and filling to put to rights. The but that bugs me most is that I was only taking another 2mm out when it happened, and I still need to get that 2mm out!
So it’s back new template time, bondo up and try again.
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Nothing but a speed bump on a rough road.
This build will be something special, only hope I live long enough to see the end of it. Come on, consider we the older members :-)
So does it look like the body is solid then except for the cavity formed by the ply back?
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Ouch frankie
Makes my primitive no router multiple drill holes method seem not so bad after all.
Too many RPM's was probably to blame. Suppose a solid colour on the edges will be able to hide bog job repair.
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Yes the Center section is solid, but I am not sure of the wood species, I think it’s Pawlonia, it’s very stringy and fibrous. I have found it difficult to work with when cutting. You need to sharpen the hell out of any edged tools before you work with it. It seems to machine pretty easily with power tools though.
I know the router is the weapon of choice but in a situation where it has to be fine I use a multitool with a narrow cutting blade.
Disasters happen in slow motion and can be caught.
Just a thought for next time
Well I'm sorry for your current predicament. I hope you were planning on doing a solid colour on the edges....
Certainly good to know for when I start my build. I was also thinking of putting in a preamp which will need routing for the battery. Seems that the wood handles routing perpendicular to the grain better than from the ends. Maybe safer to drill and chisel.
Perhaps the fibrous nature of the wood might explain the odd shaped 'sound' holes too? Though the centre hole seems to be fairly round.
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well I’m doing a solid colour now:o
The router went okay on the end grain, it’s just that it caught a fibrous section and whipped as I was using a long cutter bit due to the depth I needed. I hogged out fairly extensively before hand, it was just one of those bad luck issues.
No one of these fairly harmless weapons
2nd pic in the first post in this thread http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=3085
Ah! A little recip/vibra saw thingamy gotcha
Well I don’t like working with builders bog. But it appears to have done the trick.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b07ad1373e.jpg
Some careful work with files and sand paper and I may yet get away with it.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5c82e28171.jpg
So a wee bit of fettling and some work on the faceplate for the preamp to go. Then a wiring loom build and test, and a shaping of the headstock.
This will give me a chance to test out my circuit and see what the balance between piezo and mag pup is like.
So stay tuned folks more FrankenLab madness to follow!
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Okay so Igor got loose in the shop this afternoon and got slightly medieval with the existing pre amp face plate.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e22000d0ba.jpg
While this is not going to make the final cut, it does now become a fairly handy template for making a final one. It all fits up as it should with barely any room to spare.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3f8d6f8d2b.jpg
The next job is to wire all of that electrickery together and see if it all works the way I want it to.
Athen we shall set about checking neck angle to saddle etc.
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Hats off for trying that pup mate
Cheers Andy, we’ll see how it goes. If it doesn’t work out, then it may be heads off for Igor!
Very slow progress,
Checked bridge height with the neck clamped in, if anything it was too low and too loose.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5c1fd97623.jpg
So I modified a StewMac Ebony/Maple one to give me a little extra height and allow for shaping.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e13a2865b0.jpg
Don’t even ask what’s going on here. Just a little more FrankenLab silliness.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1f0f502403.jpg
Hopefully get into masking up for pain soon
Edit: PAINT. Masking up for PAINT.
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lol masking up :o
Aaaaand sanding....and scraping....and planning inlay.
And a little experiment with inlay...
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b7c534cbc7.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...55e2865289.jpg
You’ll have to imagine the front face of the headstock black, as it will eventually be.
I plan to put a corresponding one on the TRC and then a script logo between the two.
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I personally prefer inlay over decals. Looks like MOP of some thickness? Will stand out nicely against a black background. Does this mean it will be black paint? I’m yet to figure out how to remove stain from on top of an inlay without making a mess of the headstock, and then clear coats taking up stain and going back over the inlay.
Headstock will be black, the overall scheme will be a burst similar to your ES 1. I need to make the edges da rk to hide the whoopsie that happened with the battery box rout.
The signature/logo will be a decal, just need to do some AI work to get it to look right for the guitar, my standard Hex logo won’t look right on this build.