I like the idea of pinstripes not quite sure how i would Pull it off though I need to think it through a bit.
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I like the idea of pinstripes not quite sure how i would Pull it off though I need to think it through a bit.
Those plastics and knobs are a perfect match for it I reckon, it looks great.
You can buy pinstriping tape. Used to be able to get it from super cheap/autobarn.
Cut a length slightly longer than what you want. Stick one end down and hold it with your finger. Applying a bit of tension to keep it straight, lower it into place then pull the backing off while using a credit card or similar to push it down and keep any air from getting under it.
Ahh Super cheap of course my second favorite store. I'll have to check out what they have. I think pinstripes would be the easiest solution to fix my stuff up.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain
The stick-on pinstripes will obviously sit proud of the rest of the top. If you want it flush, then you are going to have to add several coats of clear on the top to build up to the same thickness as the tape, plus then some more to cover up the tape as well.. I doubt if you'd do that with DingoTone, so you'd need a clear lacquer spray that was DingoTone compatible.
You'd also need to add some furry dice hanging from the headstock.
Hahaha true and a fluffy strap with lots of chrome as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
I'm not 100% sure how the clear would work on the Dingotone. In saying that i used a few coats of acrylic clear over colorless DT on the headstock of my JMA without any issues. I think it would be something that would need to be tested first on some scrap timber but over a bigger area to see how it reacts.
While the pinstripes seem like a good idea and an easy fix im not convinced that they would fit in with the look im trying to achieve. I do like to take on board suggestions and advice its always good to consider all the options when faced with these kinds of issues. Cheers Simon [emoji106]
Glue lines did not look too obvious in mock build shots with the cream plastic bits. If mine I would leave them alone as adding anything will draw attention and also create more work too.
Your right Waz i had another look at it last night and the glue lines are only really visible at a certain angle so i think just carrying on and leaving them is the way to go.Quote:
Originally Posted by wazkelly
Live with it for a while and see if it gets to you mate.Quote:
Originally Posted by Grubsta
Yeah i think I will. If you were playing it you won't notice it.Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
Sensible choiceQuote:
Originally Posted by Grubsta
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Final coats started on the top this arvo and intensifier on the back. It's looking good so far. I'll make a start on the neck finish tomorrow if i get a chance. I also need to do a little more shaping on the headstock im not completely satisfied with the shape at the moment.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...db40b94922.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...92864f1179.jpg
Nice colour on the back/sides.
Yeah it is looking pretty nice its left over from my JMA build. Hopefully theres enough to stain the neck as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
Nice colour tones on top, sides & back.
It's always the case you plan to get so much done but never get there. All the plans i had for the weekend went out the window after spending a day moving my sister in law into her new house. And another day at Werribee zoo with the family.
So I got limited time to put into the lp.
I managed to rework my headstock design and I'm a lot happier with it now.
And I also prepped the neck and got a coat of stain on. Unfortunately I only had enough stain for 1 coat on the neck which is a pain because i used 2 coats on the body. My only saving grace is that i have half a bottle of intensifier left so i still may be able to match the body color with some extra intensifier coats. If not I'll just have to get another DT kit.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...85af7d2a1d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e90f87b676.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...fd8fa069e2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...de339f6f36.jpg
Looking good. A few more intensifier coats on the neck should add more colour.Quote:
Originally Posted by Grubsta
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Another coat of intensifier on this arvo after the first coat it looked quite orange but it has started to darken up ill see how it looks tomorrow.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...65e9394eb3.jpg
Many bad words were uttered this afternoon when i got home and went to inspect the L.P body.
I decided to spray a light coat of clear over it yesterday after some wet sanding and the clear i have used has had a reaction. Now I know there's a few reasons why this could have happened but im leaning toward improper cleaning after the wet sanding. In any case ill have to sand away the clear and start again. A frustrating experience but also a good lesson in paying attention to what you are doing and the results of being impateint.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f52506f752.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d0fccc38c0.jpg
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What kind of clear are you spraying? Haven't you been using Dingotone?
It's just the sca brand clear which I have used plenty of times.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain
I have used the clear in conjunction with Dingotone on the JMA with no issues but its also very possible that it has reacted with the Dingotone. In saying that it hasn't reacted on the top of the guitar and despite a very small run it has turned out pretty nice.
It's a wax/oil finish you've been using. I don't know of any paint finishes that would work well with that. I know Tru-Oil goes over Dingotone from other's experiences, but all the spray finishes I know require clean, grease-free surfaces to work on. I'd suggest you either use Tru-Oil, or wait a month or so to see if the oils/waxes have then evaporated fully leaving only the stain behind and try spraying again.
Correct Simon i knew there were some risks in taking this approach and I did test the clear over Dingotone on some spare timber with no issues before going ahead with the body. Im a bit puzzled that there has been no issues on the top though.Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
It's possible the solvents are compatible but that in that patch they weren't cured quite enough before you sprayed.
Regardless, acrylic lacquer over an oil based product like dingo tone is not really a good long term recipe. My instinct is that it will craze in years to come, because the lacquer will fully harden before the oil does.
Different colour Dingotone will have different components in them, so it may also be something to do with that colour DT as it seemed to go over the clear DT OK. Or as Sonic says, it just wasn't dry enough.
Yeah I've had a good amount of time to think about it and the more I do the more I realise that it was not a very good way to go about it. Oh well a tad embarrassing but its still worth sharing this so others don't try the same hairbrained ideas. I haven't really lost anything except time and a small amount of pride.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain
I'm going to take it back to scratch and start over and do it properly.
DT can be very fickle stuff to use. I even had 2 completely different looking MkI batches of Coolangatta Gold that had me wondering if they were in fact the same colour? One was clear and translucent whilst the next batch was opaque and looked more like satay sauce.
That blotchy reaction happened a lot on my first couple of builds and reckon it is all down to weather conditions and lack of proper curing time allowed between coats. Also a big reason why I ended up using TO for top coats and continued using it on next 4 builds as it is so much more forgiving and easier to use with minimal "stuffing it up" risks attached. Might not be as environmentally friendly but neither is poly, nitro or acrylic.
Yes I've noticed it can be a bit fickle.Quote:
Originally Posted by wazkelly
Ordering some true oil today which I should have done in the first place.
I have learned a big lesson out of this and I certainly won't be so gung ho about my finishing choices in future.
I'm starting over on this one.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ee03f70b4a.jpg
For colours I can recommend Keda Powder Dyes. Round figures I think it was $45 delivered which included 5 colours and you can then mix your own custom colours.
I coloured this one with them with mostly red, a little black and a little blue in warm water.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b939821a94.jpg
Robbo
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Shame to see all the DT stain colour sanded off as if reverting to TO it goes on top with no issues at all.
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Thanks Robbo ill check it out.[emoji106]Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockfactor
Yes it was a painful thing to do I was intending to keep the Dingotone stain but it was to far gone so I decided to strip it back and start again still going to use DT again. [emoji106]Quote:
Originally Posted by wazkelly
All good mate.
As a base stain DT is good, just gotta watch how many coats and how it is thickening up and/or not curing properly. 3 or 4 coats would be max and same for the intensifiers too. I just couldn't get the top coat to behave which caused many wet sand backs and switched to TO to bring those 2 builds home (both Explorers). Even after a couple of years the finish feels quite soft and delicate compared to later builds and marks quite easily. In hindsight I always wondered if using the neck finish as final body top coats would have worked better as that stuff is supposed to set or go off harder and tougher.
I do like the DT there is a bit of a knack to using it. I used neck final coat on the top of this one. I don't know if that is why the top hasn't reacted but its possible.Quote:
Originally Posted by wazkelly
Yeah, the knack is to wring the damped in stain rag so dry that you think there is nothing in it and then start applying. Any wetter than that and it goes on too thick which compounds the curing time aspect.
It's been a couple of weeks since I have updated my threads and that's mostly due to having a few tough weeks and getting a little disheartened after the finish stuff up. In the midst of it all I just haven't done anything. Until today that is i had ordered a new DT stain kit and some true oil last week which arrived today.
So I have stripped the body back and am basically starting from scratch.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6126b44395.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...dbbe1b8a9c.jpg
Hi Grubsta, keep at it mate, I stuffed up our JB4-A and was spewin at the time, but everthing worked out ok, with hindsight I realised its all part of the fun and learned lots. i'll bet it comes up great, will be watchin with interest.
cheers
Guv
Have to agree with Guvna.
Amazing how things turn out on the 2nd attempt as you have a clearer vision as to what to expect and how you want things to turn out.
Cheers, Waz
I'm just taking one step forward and three steps back with everything I do at the moment. Just have to keep plugging on at it.