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Thats exactly what I did on mine... flamed maple trc... it came out pretty sweet.. itll look better on yours since you have the same material on the body.. cant wait to see it!Quote:
Originally Posted by geddyfan
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Wow, that color is amazing! Can't wait to see my quilted top in practically the same color :) And I can't wait to see yours with some coats on it. Beautifull!!!!
like Simon said, this will gloss up a treat, looking great already
So...sanding sealer over the stained quilted maple? I'm finding a lot of conflicting opinions...
I bought the StewMac guitar finishing kit and a couple extra cans of black lacquer for the back, neck and headstock...it comes with sanding sealer in addition to all the other stuff...
I wouldn't, unless you knew the sanding sealer was only thinned lacquer and didn't have any filler in it. If it has, then it can be a bit cloudy. Fine for spraying over with solid colours but not so good for clear only. Plus you don't want to sand the top now, except very lightly with maybe 1200 or 1500 grit to take off any stray wood fibres popping up. Even StewMac strongly support just using clear lacquer only rather than sanding sealer.
It will take a couple of coats before it stops sinking in, so I'd leave more time between the initial coats than usual to let them soak in and dry. Then proceed as normal. Even then you'll still get some sinkage, but you just need to add enough coats so you've then got the depth to sand it back flat.
Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
I'm getting close to that point, and am going to apply it to the back and neck (all the black parts)...just need to tape everything off well, then...
Well...I had a minor black stain disaster, so while I was correcting it, I sanded back a bit to tone back the black a touch:
Attachment 18506
Which gave me this:
Attachment 18507
A bit more subtle, but actually, the pic doesn't truly capture the intensity...it's still pretty dark in person.
I then did four coats of sanding sealer on the back, and four coats of clear gloss lacquer on the front to seal, and sanded lightly with 400 grit to level...smoother than a baby's butt.
Then I taped it off and applied four coats of black gloss on the back and got this result:
Attachment 18508
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Attachment 18510
Came out pretty clean. I can see one spot where I need to clean up some black that got past the tape (Frog Tape is good stuff). Now moving on to clear for the entire guitar...8-10-12 coats? As many as I can get out of these three can's I think...surprised by the result...I actually sprayed this on my front porch. Had one tiny, fairly flat-ish run that I'm hoping will disappear with the clear (can barely see it), but there is one spot inside one cutaway that I don't know if it's going to fill...we'll see...
The end grain on the maple isn't quite what I wish it was...too saturated with stain and dark...it's picking up a weird reflection here that makes it look brown, but it's really burgundy-ish...I'll just have to live with it...
looks unreal Geddy you got to be happy with that. Clear coats I apply as many is required to protect the finish. You may get away with 3-4 coats. What is the clear you are using ?
Thanks!
I'm using the StewMac stuff...I bought the finishing kit and two cans of black gloss...surprised by how easily it's going on. Almost no real orange peel. Think I'm just getting lucky so far. Funny tho...I wasn't wearing a mask for about half of it and I definitely started to feel it, so I went and got a mask...I was a house painter years ago before and during college and I know better...
it would be nice to get by on less...but I want as durable as I can get without just being dumb about it...
If the clear coats go on evenly and you don't get any runs you should get away with 3-4 coats. See how it looks after that and a wet sand. My last build I got away with 2 coats was enough. I got 2 fairly thick even coats on and that was enough
Nice refinish, looks much better
Well...lacquer if applied, giving it time to cure before wet sanding:
Attachment 18650
Attachment 18651
Hmmm...to stain the fret board black, or not to stain the fret board black...
So in the mean time, I followed through on my wife's suggestion and made a custom truss rod cover:
Attachment 18652
Whatcha think? I think I need a cool decal...
Hmmm...lighting is sheite...I need to take some better pics...
looking awesome Scott. What is the truss rod cover made of ? You definitely need a cool logo on there
same wood as the 1/4" maple top I put on the body...just planed down a 1/8" piece and finished it like the body...
Yup...need a logo :)
really getting there now Scott, looks great
Looks great!
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Well, this has proven to be a learning experience...wet sanded and started buffing/polishing...
Couple of small defects that I need to fix, and I sanded through on the heel like a dumbass, but I am happy so far:
Attachment 18760
Attachment 18761
Attachment 18762
I stained the fret board black and lacquered it...don't know if I'll polish...kinda like it how it is...
If I had it to do over, I would work the cutaways and neck heel more (grain isn't completely smooth/filled), might go back and redo at some point, but right now I'm itching to wire this puppy...
I love it man! Thumbs up!!
That looks really super.
Depending on how 'rough' the lacquer is, you might want to polish it once you get some strings on and start to play it. Because of the much thicker strings, you don't touch the fretboard with a bass as much as you do with a guitar, but I know I don't like fretboards that feel scratchy to my fingers.
Superb, looks brilliant
this bass is a thing of beauty ... love your work!
Okay...so this project started about a year and a half ago. It started out pretty quick out of the gate, and then slowed a bit as I tripped over my own feet and child-like enthusiasm here and there, but overall I was pleased and excited. All the mods, the maple cap, the finishing, etc. But then...
Attachment 27768
But then I had to figure out (1) the wiring, and (2) all the fine-detail stuff like the setup so it didn't play like a chunk of butcher block (which it did when I first tried to play it).
I honestly took a year to just ponder just the wiring. Hell, I've never wired a bass. I know how to solder, but come up with a wiring design? ...whatever. The bass just sat in it's case while I dealt with my feelings of intimidation and inadequacy. Every once in a while I would look at it...and look at it some more. Eventually people stopped asking about "the bass project" and my wife even stopped throwing me dirty looks every time she walked by the unfinished project in my office.
Finally, I decided to just go for it, and this past week I finished the beast.
Attachment 27769
Wiring-wise, I combed a wiring diagram from a jazz bass (it was simple enough that even I could figure out how to add the third pickup) with some info I found on using a on-off-on SPDT switch for coil tapping. The goal was to get 3 volumes (one for each pickup) going to a single tone, with a switch for each to make it possible coil-tap each GFS MM-style bass pickup. Of course, I had to deal with some issues I'd made for myself.
First, the cap I'd put on the guitar was about 1/4 inch thick. Way too thick for the cts pots and switches I bought from StewMac. Buy new pots and switches, or make the wood thinner? I decided to make the wood thinner. I was using a little Bosch Colt router, and given the size of the cavity, this meant a lot of that routing was more "free hand" than I would have liked. I was shooting for 1/8", but I ended up with 1/16". Yikes. I could have probably broken it with a finger if I really tried. So, I spent about a month trying to figure out what I should do to make the wood over the cavity stronger. Solution: Bondo fiberglassing kit. I ended up doing about three layers of fiberglass and resin in the compartment, which worked great. Super strong now. Re-drilled the holes and everything looked great...except now one of the pots and one switch no longer fit because it changed the clearances a bit. Bust out the Dremel, start grinding. Eventually everything fit as planned. Painted the inside with conductive shielding paint, installed the pots and switches, and wired it all together.
Next, I had been putting off dealing with a problem with the bridge that I knew I had. When this all started, I really thought hard about getting one of those black Hipshot Rickenbacker bridges, but I just couldn't swallow the price tag. In the meantime, I found a bridge that I liked pretty well on the All Parts site for $35.00. Solid...modern-ish...nice-looking...but one problem. Mounted, it was about 1/8" too...short. As solid as it is, the profile is just a lot lower and it couldn't be adjusted high enough to provide the correct clearance over the fret board without things getting really wonky. Solution: I had a piece of the maple cap I'd planed down to 1/8" for the control cavity cover and truss rod covers I made left over, so I made a spacer that I cut to size, sanded, and finished with the same black finish I used for the guitar. Slipped it under there, screwed everything down, and honestly, it looks like it's part of the bridge...and the height is perfect now...
Attachment 27770
So then...the moment of truth before moving on to the final setup...I plugged it in (with my wife cowering on the other side of the room, convinced I was about to electrocute myself)...and believe it or not, it worked ON THE FIRST TRY.
Unbelievable.
Then I moved on to the setup. I found a really easy to follow 4-part series by Elixir strings on Youtube. It turned out that straightening the neck, making all the string height adjustments, etc. was pretty darned easy (it helped that the neck was pretty good to start with). I've been playing bass for 38 years, but never bothered to learn how to do a proper setup (just paid for someone else to do it). Looking back, I've thrown away a ton of money just being lazy all these years. The only real issue I had was the nut. The nut height was off by a mile and it took me a long time to get the slots filed down to the proper height with the files I had (next time, I'll order some proper nut files). Overall, It was an interesting process in that you can actually feel how each adjustment makes the neck easier to play on. Wish I'd learned all this when I started.
So, once I got the neck in shape, I started really playing around with it. It's fun to play. I like the neck, fret board, and the action, though I think I can tweak it a little more and make it a little better (and I didn't level the frets, which I need to do just for the experience, so that might squeeze a little more playability out of it, tho honestly, they're not bad the way it came out of the box).
I love the way it looks. The pictures don't really do the maple justice.
Sound/wiring-wise...I got about 90% out of what I wanted from the wiring in the sense that it works, and it mostly does what I wanted it to do. Lots of tonal difference between the three pickups in humbucking mode. I need the adjust the height of the pickups, but as far as getting three different "sounds" it certainly does. The coil-tap feature...meh...underwhelmed, and I doubt I'll really use it, but switches are cool :) Actually, this feature isn't working right on the middle pickup. It's either a bad switch, or I'm wondering if it's how everything is wired. The middle switch doesn't seem to tap the coils and in the "down position" it kills the pickup. This will require pondering...I'm also considering taking the switches out and installing red LEDs :) Or maybe 3-band equalization? the E-string really booms on this sucker.
When I started this, some folks questioned the wisdom of putting 3 MM-style humbuckers in it. I wanted something aggressive to the point of obnoxious...and that's what I got. THIS SUCKER IS LOUD. I like the sound of these GFS pickups, and they do make a glorious noise. When I first turned it on, all three pickups were turned all the way up and I thought I was going to blow the speaker in my GK combo amp. It's way louder than my active Ibanez five-string I usually play.
Take-aways on the project...many. This was fun and a great learning experience. I can't wait to do another one. First off, plan more. I had an idea when I started this, but I didn't really plan, and "winged" a lot of it. Have the right tools, too...I improvised way too much and would have avoided some pain otherwise. I almost ruined the whole thing at the start by trying to get around buying a router template for the pickups and making my own (notice that they'ere not perfectly aligned as it is) If I had it to do over, I would have approached the maple cap differently and gotten a better result. LEARN TO LOVE YOUR ROUTER. I was afraid of the router, but now I realize what an awesome tool it is for this kind of work. And do things in the right order. I just HAD to see the finish right way, and now, since this has taken so long, there are small imperfections that I either have to live with or I will have to repair. If I hadn't skipped around, I would have ended up with a near-perfect result...and I also wouldn't have spent as much as I did (I have all the receipts in a box, and am afraid to total it all up).
I'll post a video some time soon so people can hear it.
Really glad your enjoying it. It looks great!
Looks great and good to hear have finally finished it.
I have also purchased a GFS MM '3' wire HB pickup for my MMB4 build and having a hell of a time trying to find best way to wire it up with a blend pot on the Belcat pre amp that was bought on eBay. Agree that when in series as a proper HB it does sound good however a few of the coil tap variations done so far seemed to do very little. The DPDT mini on-off-on switch idea was another option but from what you are saying that might be a waste of time & money?
Cheers, Waz
Hi Waz,
Thanks!
Yeah...Part of my struggle with the GFS pickups was the weird 3-wire configuration and the lack of documentation for the pickup, but with the on-off-on spdt switch, with red soldered to top, white to middle, and black to bottom I get north coil in top position, full humbucker in middle, and south coil in bottom. It seems to work (at least for the neck and bridge - don't know why the middle isn't working as desired), but it doesn't really "do" much tonally (just makes it a little quieter to my ears). Having gone through it now, I'll probably pull the switches and do something different at some point in the future. It's cool to have all the extra "stuff" (lots of impressive-looking nobs and switches) and functionality but it's so subtle - I'm too much of a ham-fisted, rock-pounding clod to bother with it...and between the three pickup sounds and adjusting the tone, there's a lot of variation already. Might just be the nature of these pickups, too...be interested to test a different MM-style pickup with 4 conductors to see if it's just something specific to the GFS design.
It was cool to try, tho...and this helped me get over being intimidated by the wiring part. I'm scheming for my next build (I'm thinking tele bass on steroids, but what happened to the tele bass kit Pitbull used to sell?), and the whole process on the Gedenbacker has given me some cool ideas and better insight into what I want to do on the next one and how to achieve it.
Scott
Hi Scott, keen to know how you wired up your on-off-on mini DPDT switches.....which wires go to which lugs as I have spent about the last month trying to find enough spare time and patience to discover the best combination on a double stacked blend pot....best setup seems to be hard wired in series as all others don't do much or sound any good.
Thanking you in advance.
Cheers, Waz