Attachment 18347finally got the last coat of clear on yesterday morning, starting to
look finished
Printable View
Attachment 18347finally got the last coat of clear on yesterday morning, starting to
look finished
Attachment 18348Attachment 18349i was going through the photos i have taken since i started and after each coat of clear goes on it seems to have taken some of the blue out of the finish.
It certainly does look more yellow in the unstained sections.
I was hoping it was just the lighting conditions that was giving the colours a slightly washed out look.
It seems the whole thing has yellowed off, shame, but it does still look great
The colour actually makes the guitar look like its 30 years old
What a lovely looking guitar. Very unique aged look :-)
I wish i could say that the look was deliberate but its a complete accident its not what i was trying to do but i do like how it has turned out, there must have been some reaction in the finish coats and the humidity or something else who knows. Its still a bit tacky so hopfully by the weekend will be able to solder pick ups and string up.
Hi Adam, I think we can all relate to your experience here as each layer of finish is applied it can quite often give the build an unexpected different look or dimension where most of the time it ends up better than what we may have initially envisaged.
In this case it certainly looks great and if anything the slight yellowing gives it some warmth.
Cheers, Waz
I have noise, final coat was dry enough to start touching today so i wired the pickups and put the switch and pots in, strung it up and tuned. Pluged in and both pickups worked. Kids are asleep so could only have it on very quiet and clean. Action feels good no real rattles in the strings. Just need get the harmonics right once the strings settle in. Im just stoked that it worked Attachment 18429
You still have a couple of days to get it finished and enter in GOTM.
Thanks waz, dont think its going to happen. €ŁĄ₩ĄŁ€#@% it pluged in and sounded great for 60 seconds then nothing taped the body and it started agian, did the same on both pickups so id say ive got a loose solder joint going to have to pull it all back out and try again. It took over an hour to get it all in. Did sound great for the short little sound test through my marshall 40w valvestate. The final coats still feels like it would scratch easy if i tried to play it
2 more days left and not too many entries.......
Attachment 18464 my quiver of axes
Did a bit of a demo today but having trouble uploading the files, has anyone got any tips on how to do it?
What do you want to upload?
Normally you'll have to upload the files to somewhere like Soundcloud or a service like Dropbox where you can host publicly accessible files and provide a link to those files.
What's it like for feedback with volume and drive, Adam?
Use MS Movie Maker to edit file into a format that can be uploaded on You Tube. Mark the file for public viewing and then click on share the link.
In the tool bar within these quick reply boxes the 3rd in from RHS looks like a roll of film - click on it to then paste the URL for the You Tube video and remember to drop/delete the 's' from https in the link so that it shows up ready to play.
Hopes this makes sense and is easy to follow.
Cheers, Waz
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/qni0kming...hqq9Wd5hvO3pga
I dony know if this will work
Works for me!
Both demos where done with a loop pedal, there's 3 loops on each one using both pickups, and recorded using a tablet in front of the amp, my playings not the best first time using a loop pedal.
Thanks for the help https://www.dropbox.com/s/kpdz3e5sua...12-11.wav?dl=0
Attachment 18568 finally some sumlight to take a good photo
Such a cool build mate.:cool: the first recording worked but not the second. I like the marshall amp too
I do have a rattle in the bridge on the b and g strings its definitely something in the bridge loose you can really hear it when not pluged in to an amp
The kit bridge saddles are rather loose, so need a bit of tension on them to stop them rattling. On a good quality bridge there's vary little play at all. What gauge strings are you using and what's the string break angle like on the bridge? With a stop tail you can lower it to increase the break angle, but with a floating tailpiece, there's not a lot you can do to increase the angle, though you might be able to bend the rear of the tailpiece assembly so it sits slightly flatter to the body.
You've got the saddle position adjustment screws facing backwards. Just make sure that the strings aren't touching any of the screws, or are really almost touching, as some transmitted vibrations may allow the rear part of the string to buzz against the adjustment screw (or the screw against the string). If so, turn the bridge round.
Otherwise it might be time to think about upgrading the bridge.
even Gibson change around which ways the bridge screws face. More importantly, are the saddles oriented properly - with the flat side of the saddle facing the headstock and the bevel towards the trapeze
There is certainly no 'right' way for the bridge to sit. The ABR bridges tend to have the screws facing forwards as they often foul the strings at the rear, or stop the tail piece from being screwed down closer to the body, whilst the redesigned 'Nashville' bridge has the screws lower down and less prominent, so they often get set facing the rear.
The saddle orientation is generally a question of what's required for intonating the guitar depending on the strings you are using. Gibson send them out with the three plain string saddle slopes facing the rear and the three wound string saddle slopes facing the neck as the intonation setting generally requires the bass string saddles to be further back.
I've occasionally had to swap saddle orientation to get a string to intonate properly, but it shouldn't be necessary to turn the saddle round to stop a string buzzing. If you do there's a bigger underlying problem that needs solving. It's a lot easier to change the saddles round on an older ABR style tune-o-matic than on the Nashville type ( I'm not sure I've ever worked out how to do it on a Nashville), so they normally stay 3-forward, 3-aft on those.
You can shake a proper Gibson ABR bridge and hardly hear a thing and it looks solid. Shake a PBG kit ABR bridge and you can hear the saddles rattling and you can see them moving, both back-and-forth and side-to-side. If they (the PBG kit saddles) are held down with sufficient tension, then they work OK, but too light a downward pressure and the strings vibration can make them move.
While upgrading the bridge is the best option and it will make the guitar play a lot better, there is a way to get rid of the rattle. It might not be exactly "good practice", but it has worked for me in a pinch.
Grab a flat bladed screwdriver or something similar and kink the retainer wire in between the screws. Like this
http://guitarless.com/wp-content/upl...-Rattle-LG.jpg
Start with the saddles that are loose and work out from there. Try not to go too hard though.
Thanks guys, turned bridge around last light and seems to have stopped the rattles, re wired a few joints and was still working this morning
Good news.
Had a jamb this arvo with Skillzys LP lefty, both guitars sounded great, shame about our playing though. We used a mates 100w peavey stack and my 40w marshall interesting that the 40w marshall had heaps more punch and grunt, the other thing was the amount of feed back when i pluged into the peavey i got hardley any from the marshall
Hard to beat a pommie made guitar amp for tone.
Never been a fan of Peavey guitar amps however did like the sound of their TKO & TNT Bass Amps from mid 80's.
It's been a month or two since i finished, the guitar playes and sounds awesome. had a week of work and spent it in the maldives surfing. Now i need a project to keep me occupied and take the mind of work, i was originaly thinking an RC-1, but saw something similar to an ES-2V being used at a pub the other day and it looked sweet, so im a bit unsure of wich way to go.
haha Barnsey you might have to order both kits if you can't decide !
I used to do the same thing with the bridge on an Epiphone SG that I used to own before moving to Darwin in 2000, if you loose the wire retainer clip you can easily make a new one from an old unwound G-String, the saddles on the Nashville bridge on my LP studio guitar are a bit loose too, I managed to tighten them up a bit by bending the saddle screw retainer clips but they still move forwards and back, later on this year I'm going to go all-out and replace the existing bridge with one of those Chrome Babicz ones, haven't tried them before so it'll be interesting to see what results I get.