Haha you've got it Woks. I think the kit pups are the size of.the old Flender Mexican JB pups. where the bridge pickup is same width as the neck one. I'm sticking in Toneriders that have the slightly wider bridge pup
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Haha you've got it Woks. I think the kit pups are the size of.the old Flender Mexican JB pups. where the bridge pickup is same width as the neck one. I'm sticking in Toneriders that have the slightly wider bridge pup
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Small update. I wasn't happy with the TO applied to the fret-board so have commenced scraping in between the frets with a Stanley blade. I'm over half way done and I've rubbed in and polished up the wood with Dingotone Guitar Wax where TO removed. Looks heaps better and the scraping has actually improved the look of the grain. Once I've finished I'll post a pick. Apart from that full steam ahead with the rest of the TO neck finish!
Eeek that sounds like a job and a half....glad you got it sortedQuote:
Originally Posted by andrewdosborne
What was the issue? When I did my first one I found 2 very light TO coats were good, although I did use DT guitar wax on my latest build.Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdosborne
I think I used a little too much - it looked too thick next to the frets.
No dramas all fixed.
Here is the back of the neck before next coat of Tru Oil
https://youtu.be/1Bf6UYFflsI
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Hi Ponch, nice grain showing on the back of the neck. Gotta be happy with that.
May be worth investigating the possibility of fitting the guts of the Tonerider Pickup into the shell of the stocker to save having to carve up the body unnecessarily. Ifvthebholes don't line up maybe go Bartolini style. About three bux on eBay.
That's and idea Hobastard, I'll explore that option.
Just so you get and idea of the issue, the screw lugs are just a bit east/west of the kit routed lugs
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Cheers Waz, I think I scored a piece of maple destined for something else...Quote:
Originally Posted by wazkelly
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And finally for tonight the earth wire hole is clear, yay! It looks.like I've pushed out a dead decaying insect from this one!
I'm going to keep the wire tucked in there to stop it blocking up down the track...
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The smaller sized pickups also tend to have slightly different pole piece centre distances, so a simple swap of pickup housings may not work. But it's certainly worth a try.
Arrgghhhh almost works but pole piece holes are out of wack. Kit pup shell over Tonerider...
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It's a tough one. No easy solution I can think of. A replacement scratchplate would probably have the correct dimension cut-out for the neck Tonerider and so cover up an enlarged pickup rout, but the bridge one is exposed, so enlarging the rout for the locating ears is going to be quite noticeable. Though as you are going for a solid colour spray finish, any filling and re-routing would be covered up.
Possibly cut the lugs off and reposition them on the pickup cover?
It could be done, but they are under a reasonable amount of stress as they are holding the pickup down against the pressure of the foam underneath it. It may depend on the plastic used for the cover as to whether you could successfully glue them back on again. Some are made from soft plastics, some from hard. If hard, an epoxy might do it. If soft, I'm not sure if it would work at all.
instead of filling the extra routed hole space maybe just build up the lugs with something like milliput or steel putty and then paint it black so the pup body fills the extra routed space on the bridge pickup and it looks like's it's supposed to be that way?
Use covers with no holes....
Hi Ponch, same issue with Entwistles I used.
Cannot remember if base plate had the locator lug holes because if they do maybe topless could be an option? Another would be to use the stock PBG shells and slightly enlarge the pole piece holes or open them up into one big slot?
Thanks for all the feedback everyone. Got some ideas to work with here. I have some spare covers from my last JB build to experiment with. Whilst researching some other options first up I'm going to widen the 2x outer pole piece holes to allow the PUP poles to fit into place. If I can get this symmetrical it may (or may not) look ok.....
There seems to be a few sellers on fleaBay selling covers with no pole piece holes. I'll have to make some inquiries into the screw to screw distance measurement.
Or Just get a Pair of Neck ones. They are available individually.....Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdosborne
This will mean the pole pieces won't line up at the bridge pickup as the string spacing tapers from bridge to nut.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hobastard
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-sets-Bl...0AAOSwTapV39AaQuote:
Originally Posted by pablopepper
maybe I wasn't making myself clear....
You get something like these, and use the Neck ones only...... cos they fit.... :)
Cheers Hobastard, I'll check the screw-to-screw measurement with the supplierQuote:
Originally Posted by Hobastard
So here's my first idea. Widened the pole piece holes of the kit bridge pup surround in the middle, joined at the edges so Tonerider pup fits.
Looks passable, I may be able to live with this and no major rerouting
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The pickguard route is an easy fix using neck Tonerider supplied pot cover
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Getting there ,mate. Some cool work around with the pups, I'm sure you'll nail it
I wasn't sure it was going to work - but it has. Because the cover is rough rather than shiny like most are, it's hardly noticeable. Well done, sir.
nice work :)
Thanks guys. I'm surprised it came out ok, the rough cover certainly helps camoflauge my handy work! I'm going to PDF template this hack to share with others who face the same dilemma
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Nice workaround Andrew!
Can I be really pedantic, and suggest widening the oval holes you have made fractionally towards the left and right, just so the two poles are sitting in the middle of the cutout?
It's just an aesthetic thing, but it's the first thing my eyes were drawn to.
Good workaround and quite surprised it looks OK and not too obvious.
Dude, great workaround!
cheers,
Gav.
I know what you mean Zandit. This is v.1 - I have another kit pup cover for v.2. I'm going to make a template from v.1, load into my vector drawing program and tidy it up a bit then use this as a guide for v.2 mod. I'm just a bit dodge doing by hand/eyeQuote:
Originally Posted by Zandit75
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Did a bit of sanding yesterday with 80 grit to remove the machine marks around the sides. I find its quicker to start with 80 grit then work up the grades. Machine marks are quickly eradicated this way
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Looks good Ponch.
Have to agree about starting with 80 grit as it makes light work on the initial sanding part of the job. Moving on to 120 next helps to smooth out the grooves sometimes left by 80. On my latest Tele build only went up to 120 before staining it and that was smooth enough. Damn shame I added some black after a couple of the science lab coats and stuffed it resulting in a full sand back last night and again this afternoon. Went to just 180 this time and it felt really silky smooth before it was given it's cold tea bath.
Thanks Waz that's a shame about the science experiment it was coming along so well
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Put another vinegar solution on it tonight and looking pretty good so far. Photographic evidence to follow soon.Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdosborne
Some upgrades arrived yesterday. Real Parts tuners and a Wilkinson vintage bridge. I've scaled back on the tuner upgrades (unforseen medical expenses...) but these fit well, bushings are nice and tight and they turn nicely
Not much else going on apart from sanding... Neck is ready for some wetsanding this evening.
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bridge looks good Ponch. The tuners look pretty well much like the stock ones, are they any better ?
Yes, they feel much better. If you grab a stock one there is a thin piece of metal pushing against the tuning post at the back- this seems to bind the post, also a better fit into the bushing
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