Toshi that is a seriously gorgeous deep purple. really like how that is turning out!
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Toshi that is a seriously gorgeous deep purple. really like how that is turning out!
well done Toshi love the purple stain. I am still going to vote for you for SOTY competition if it ever eventuates - sander of the year haha
Sander of the year, I love it! I second your nomination!Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
The neck is looking great.
Great work Toshi really nice purple. RE: Sander of the year - who would have thought that guitar building would also be a healthy pastime 'exercise-wise'!
Looking good Toshi.
Reckon a Black Scratch Plate with Black screws would provide a better contrast than using the kit supplied white one. Chrome screws would still look alright as there will be other chrome bits on top so if you cannot find them it should still look ok.
You can get a black scratch plate from PBG, here is the link... http://www.pitbullguitars.com/shop/u...ckguard-black/
good work Waz spot the salesman hahahah
Thank you all! I am very encouraged. SOTY - definitely i will nominate confidently, if there is. :) any way i feel become healthier and good sleep since this project. thanks to 'exercise-wise'.
Waz, actually i have been thinking to replace Pickguard though, my thought was White Pearloid. but black plate with black screws sounds nice too.
If you like perloid and black, try black perloid????
Hi Hobastard, yes, that is also good option, black Pearloid with black screw.
it has been long and winding road. over this month, just kept repeating work on the neck and body sanding, coating clear, waiting for drying out, wet sand over and over again... and it was painful experience when i found something wrong on coating, "Burn through"... not once, but several times.
however, i am sure this is the way i learn how much need to build up coating and how sensitive to sand it down it with huge patience.
i wanted texture of tru-oil on neck, so i applied 3-4 coat of TO and applied with Urethane water base varnish with brush to build-up thickness on it. finally finished by a few coat of poly urethane spray easily to make flat surface for polishing.
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And I have blank bone nut block, so i tried to make one, following StewMac instruction.
again, sanding sanding sanding...while refering to instruction, i imitated the stocked nuts attached to the kit.
next will be installing machine head...
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excellent work Toshi and great to have an update ! Neck is looking very nice and the bone nut looks good too. Bet you have learnt a heap so far with the build. Keep up the good work.
Very Nice work Toshi!
Great work, Toshi. You'd gone very quiet for a while and I was hoping you weren't ill or anything.
Lovely work. The art of patience!
Very impressed :) Keep up the good work!
The purple looks great and awesome gloss on the neck.
Love the headstock logo - Pineapple Kingdom - love it
Thank you all for the encouraging message. so far still struggling with body finishing though, I will keep it up till the completion!
Wokka, thanks.Yes, will continue. I saw your beautiful red JB with nice black grain. It is really nice!
Simon, thanks for msg. I've been well, just didnt get nice update for a month. hope i can update with completed body and neck soon.
Stan, thank you. hope body will be finishe nicely. pineapple kingdom, just joking but pineapple here is excellent and cheap so much, that i named it.
finally neck has been done, except string guide. Bushing rings were very tight to push in the hole that I was afraid of crack around the hole. fortunately there was no crack though, I wonder I should have widen the hole a bit more before i started installing them... it was really fearful experience every stroke i hammered bushings into the headstock. Actually i made one small dent on backside, i didnt realize there was small debris behind the headstock. so many thing need to be paid attention... so many wonders i have in all steps. How thankful i receive advice and instructions from Mentors here!
After placed the tuners and carefully marked the center of holes, then drilled out them for screws.
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to finish neck part, i polished fret with cloth polisher. I think this one easier and less mess than using polishing compound. But i feel compound has stronger effectiveness.
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good work Toshi the neck and tuners look great. If you do another build and the tuner bushings are tight you should have got a round file and filed it out a bit, all good they are in. Make sure the cloth/towel you work on is free of debris. I have laid the body on a ball of solder and put dents in it. It is very easy to do !
Thanks for the compliment on my red jazz bass
Thank you for advice, Wok as always. I have learned many things to build guitar as first step. Surely I am looking forward to the next project once current one is done.hope it will improve as i progress.
good stuff Toshi, glad you have learnt alot with this build. Sure your next one will be better, as long as the minister approves another kit haha tell your other half you can build her a lovely bass or guitar !
I will still vote you as sander of the year (SOTY) if we ever get a chance to vote for the award haha
I often use a liquid metal polish on my frets for the final polish after using the micromesh on them. It's not usually noticeable on the fretboard, though I normally do wipe the board down with lemon oil again afterwards, which normally removes any white residue left by the polish in small gaps in the wood. The cloth polisher you have is probably an even finer grade of polish than the liquid polish, so great for an even shinier final polish.
Hi Wok, I have told my wife for next project and had already approval :) looking at IB-5 or MMB-4 so far, since dont have 5 strings bass and MM type. so excited. and SOTY, hahaha, hope there be. This time, i seemed to miss out some convex on front and back body. and this caused "Burn through" on them, when i wet-sanded. so maybe i do not deserve SOTY. however i have learned how critically important to sand out body and neck completely before moving forward.
Hi Simon, thank you for suggestion. I have liquid metal polisher too, but as you mentioned, I was afraid of white residue remained on fret. so good to know lemon oil is the solution to clear out them all, i will try next time.
Yes, cloth polisher seems finer than liquid one, as the result i felt not effective enough to remove some scratches on fret. I may go for Liquid first then cloth, finally cleaning with Lemon Oil before final assembly of kit.
good stuff Toshi, I have built a IB-5 and IB-6S, next bass on my list is an MMB-4 and convert to 3+1 tuner config and put 2 humbuckers in it.
Oooh I look forward to that one. Anyone brave enough to make a MM5 out of a JB5?????
Hey Hoby have to compare the body shapes. Might be possible to widen the pup routes and if can fit 5 tuners on a MMB-4 kit 3+2 that may work. Or are the MMB-5 a 4+1 config ? That would work. As long as a 4 string neck is wide enough for 5 strings. Might have to fit a 5 string neck to it.
Sorry Toshi about the thread jack mate !
They are 4+1. They also have some nice sculpting on the body.....
Hi Wok, yeah, if i have an enough skill, that is what i really want to do for MMB-4, 3+1 tuner config and 2xhumbuckers. surely that is way beyond my skill. I really am looking forward to seeing it! I try to find your post of IB-5 built, but couldnt. if you could share the link or photo of your IB-5, it would be very appreciated.
Hi Toshi I found the build diary to my IB-5, I realised its not finished, I will dig up some finished pics.
It was finished 2013 so the stain is wudtone Amber, this was before Dingotone was available
http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=2059
here Toshi finished pics. I have since removed the speed bumps (frets)
Thank you for the link and photo, Wok. It is very beautiful and nice golden color, good works! Now feel i would like to try IB-5... by the way, is it your workshop? looks very nice.
thanks Toshi, I think if you put a active pre-amp in an IB-5 it will sound great. The build diary yes that is the workshop in 2013, it has evolved since then. Its just a pine and mdf workbench I built at the back patio of my house. Was 1.8m long when first built and we outgrew that so extended it to 3m long
If you've got scratches on your frets, then you are going to need a bit more than metal polish. Use the metal fretboard protectors and depending on how deep the scratches are and how soft the fret metal is, I'd maybe start with 320 or 400 grit paper and sand the whole fret until the scratches are gone. Then it's just working up through the grits, then moving on to Micromesh all the way up to 12000, before using the metal polish.
How much work is involved depends on the fret material. With stainless steel frets it took me around 90 minutes per fret on most frets to get them smooth after a fret levelling as stainless steel is so hard. I have just done a similar job on a Fender Telecaster and that took far less time, though still about 10 minutes per fret as the steel seemed to be harder than normal. On a PBG ES-1, I did a whole fret level, re-profile and fret polishing in about 90 minutes as the frets were comparatively soft material.
Once you've got any cross-wise scratches out of the frets (running a piece of hard thin wire across them is the best way that I've found to tell as you can feel the wire catching on the scratches rather than sliding), then it doesn't take long to go up the grits - normally just a few strokes with each one is fine.
Just did the frets on my Tele today and suggest masking up the fret board as even with those slotted metal guides/guards it is easy to mark the fret board. Also ran all the way up through the micro mesh pads to 12,000 and will hit it with some Brasso metal polish on the weekend as it does a fantastic job on sealed maple boards but could make a right proper mess on a rosewood one.
As long as you don't absolutely soak the fretboard in the Brasso, I've found it OK on rosewood and ebony. And if there is some residue left, then lemon oil seems pretty good at removing it (though for very deep cracks in the grain, you might need a small brush to clean it out).
If you are doing a lot of work on the fretboard, then it's probably worth masking the board up. I've got wide and narrow fret protectors, but even on the wide one it is possible to leave a small mark on the board if you aren't extra careful. Good for a few frets and higher grade grits, but if starting out with low grit numbers, it's overall quicker and more protective if you mask the board with tape.
Wok, PU replacement is exactly what i was about to ask. If i go for IB-5, I was thinking to replace with passive pu from EMG or else. but agree Active should be better option. Only complication of wiring might be issue for me. been looking for suitable replacement, but so far, not sure which one can be replaceable... Just in case you have any idea of brand or model, could you advise? The 3m long workshop sounds nice&cozy. i like your tool board with device shape line. easy to put them back their place! As long as i stay in singapore, not possible to have though, once i went back to Japan, I really want to build one.
Simon, Waz, Thank you for advice on fret works. I was not aware there are many ways and techs to take care of fret. every each step of building guitar, we need lots of knowledge... the scratch is very fine, so it may be good to start from higher grids. As advised, i will use masking tape or fretboard protector. as for metal material, i felt its relatively soft when i had done with fret edge. but i will take longer time to see the fret condition carefully. About Brasso, thanks for recommendation. maybe not possible to find at local shop here, so will check something similar, once my yamaha metal polisher finished. By the way, I skipped fret leveling, since it sounds very complicated and difficult. Is it important to do?