Hey Zandit, the ferules are pressed in but they have about a 1mm thick lip that sits ontop of the body surface.
I think they look super sexy, think about a string through for a future build
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Hey Zandit, the ferules are pressed in but they have about a 1mm thick lip that sits ontop of the body surface.
I think they look super sexy, think about a string through for a future build
I'm going to be using them on my Silent guitar build. I'm just a little worried about drilling the thickness of my body which needs to be wide enough to handle the acoustic pick up. I have access to a drill press at work which will make it easier.
I'm also wondering what to do with the top of the body. Since I'm using an acoustic bridge to take the Piezo UST(Under Saddle Transducer) do I use ferrules top and bottom on the body?
Sorry for the thread jack Dave!
hey Zandy, yes you can get ferules for top of the body or have a look at the FV-1G kit it has a cool string plate on top, of course in a V shape !
Or, you can go for old school Flush Fit Ferrules.
I already have the ferrules, 12 in total of the ones that sit proud slightly. I'll have them top and bottom.
I guess they could really go in numerous patterns. They don't have to be perfectly straight do they?
When you say "12 in total" is that 6 rear and 6 top mount ferrules? Just checking.
Missed page change!
On the ferrules ...
Normally just proud. The traditional versions have a small lip on them to keep them on top of the body. I'm sure you could get some flush-fitting ferrules, but you'd have to be very careful drilling your insert holes. Too shallow and the ferrule ends poke out (and would be very difficult to remove), too deep and the string tension would pull them into the body (unless you also glued them in place with epoxy).
Haha, Yes, I guess it does. What I actually meant was you could do it in multiple configurations depending on your final design. You could ZigZag the holes, put them on a slight diagonal, or a V like suggested earlier by Wokka!
I actually bought 12 of the rear mount ferrules not thinking/knowing there were different ones for the top. Do you think I need to get proper top mount ferrules?
I had a feeling you were going to say that, hence my question.
Yes, you definitely need the top mount ferrules. They're smaller, use a much smaller hole and their edge is designed to take the string safely. If you tried to use a rear mounts on the top you'd not only have the unecessarily oversized ferrules ruining the looks of the guitar but their edge would probably instantly cut your strings under tension. They're just not designed to be used on top.
I've seen ferrule in a couple of different layouts on Fretking guitars and in a V on a V
Finally a minor update, after doing a bit of sanding and drilling the string through & ferrules finally marked out what has to be removed for the bridge pickup.
Just need the rain to stop for long enough to set up the bench outside and do some butchery with the multitool, chisels & Dremel.
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The 3 saddle top loader kit bridge Vs the correct style Wilkinson 6 saddle string through bridge.
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A break between showers so I thought DK why not get into it, so out with the weapons of war
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Cut with the Multitool done time for the chisel
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The end result, pretty happy with that ( put the blue & white apron away now :D )
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good work DK, love your outdoor workbench !
just be aware the Wilkinson bridge you won't have as much saddle adjustment. Think others have replaced the screw on the stock bridge that sets the position of the saddle if they need to be set more forward than the Wilkinson screws will allow. When you get the pup in maybe check the intonation measurements.
Looks like you didn't do any damage to the quilt top either !
Yeah there isn't as much travel but don't forget the length of the pressed saddled make up the length difference.
I set the bridge position with the E1 saddle at 80% extended is there is adjustment in it and the rest of course are incrementally closer to the backing plate.
Swapping the kit screws for the Wilkinson screws was what I did with the first non PB Tele but in both cases they were 3 saddle bridges, this Wilkinson is a six saddle and the kit 3 saddle so not enough screws or springs
ah yeah of course need 6 screws/springs for your Wilko bridge but may only need longer screws for E A D saddles. Sure it will be fine to intonate as you moved the bridge forward a good 6-8mm by the looks
Yep about 6mm forward
Hooray for good weather! Looking good.
Thanks Simon I am happy with the way it is coming along
Didn't last long, started to spit as I was packing up then the sun came out hot and bright so a couple of loads of washing went on the line, 15 minutes later we had a massive storm.
Very weird weather this year
Just fitted the Tonerider to the bridge and sat it in position, buggeration still need to excavate a little more from the front lower side of the cavity to get it to sit in place.
May yet get the 1st coat of CG on the quit this weekend if the weather holds
Nice progress Dave, did you manage to get any CG on today? The humidity dropped briefly to 70% but quickly shot back up to 95%..... sure is a bad season for any type of finishing...
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Nope nothing done today, I have a regular jam with some locals on Saturday afternoons and today I was on bass so took the PB-4H and pretended I was one of the Funk Brothers lots of fun but that's the longest I've spent on bass for many years.
I should get the pup route sorted tomorrow and maybe slap a bit of jam on
Finally got the bridge pup route sorted and slapped the CG on the top, doesn't look have bad
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Pity it didn't come routed for a standard neck pup, I'd have used a gold surround plate instead of a scratch plate to expose more of the quilt.
looks very nice DK, the CG has really popped the quilt nicely.
Yes, that is nice.....
mmmmm this is starting to look sweeeeeet. Really looking forward to the progress updates of this build!
Hi Dave, when you add the intensifiers that quilt will pop even more.
Agree about the neck PUP rout being too big but as this is being built as a tribute suppose the pearloid scratch plate was always going to happen.
Very true Waz, always going to have the pearloid scratchplate
Started slapping the Black Stump on the bits that are meant to be black today, seem to have gone through a heap more of it doing a single coat on the back and sides than doing three coats of the CG stain on the top.
Given that it needs to be as close to a solid black as possible I think I'm up for another Black Stump kit.
Also decided against doing the CG skunk stripe on the back, I was worried about removing the glue from the masking tape
No pics today as the weather closed in and I may have got into a bit of bother for stinking the house out with the CG effort. :D
haha good one DK, tell the other half DT has a nice citrus smell, much nicer than acrylic paint smell !
I have found sides of a body are as thirsty as a laborer on a hot day arriving Friday to a pub with happy hour !
I would order another black stump kit if you want the stain almost solid
2nd bucket of Black Stump ordered :)
The first tub of Black Stump is now fully depleted doing the back and sides, now waiting for the next batch to do the burst
Wow that is a nice Tele, this will looks great
Thanks Stan, I certainly hope it comes up as I wish
The dog is on the move.
The Black Stump has been fully used up on the back and sides and a new lot is on the way for the burst and a bit of a diversion I have in mind.
Didn't get the solid black on the back but with a stain I guess that was never going to really happen and also decided against the CG skunk stripe on the back because I was worried about the glue off the masking tape affecting the stain
Another coat of CG on the top tomorrow and then the burst probably on the weekend followed by the intensifier all over and then add very thin top coats until I have the depth I want.
And somewhere along the way an hour or so with a steady hand to scrape the binding where the BS has bled under the masking
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