Getting one with a large enough chuck is the problem. If the recommended hole size is 10mm, I'd probably use a 9mm drill to start with and then widen the rear side of the hole with a reamer.
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Getting one with a large enough chuck is the problem. If the recommended hole size is 10mm, I'd probably use a 9mm drill to start with and then widen the rear side of the hole with a reamer.
Yeah, I was considering a brace and bit set, they usually do up to about 1/2 inch or slightly over, though angling might be a concern. Worst case scenario, I could always attach it to my drill-a-Ma-jig.
Handy bit of gear to have in the tool stash in any case.
I found that laying some coarse grit on the neck pup position and finessing the neck pup ring across that gave me the curve I needed for that one, but i had to use a profile gauge, masking tape, a sharpie marker and a dremel type tool with a cutting disc to get the Bridge one to co-operate and conform to the top profile. It worked pretty well, though as you'd remarked Simon both routs are on the upper tolerances in size, the pup rings fit the PUPs well, bit only just cover the routs.Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
This is where you now decide to make your own slightly-oversized wooden pickup rings..
No need, they cover the holes, and there is sufficient corner in each rout to host the mounting screws. There's other work that need doing before i really need to worry about that any how. Some more sanding is on the horizon.Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
Attachment 16848
waiting for sanding, unfortunately
Attachment 17157
Just an idea I am playing with. The silver standard adjuster screws are going to get replaced probably with Black low head allen screws sourced from work.
Hi Frankie, liking the veiled mesh look.
If you replace the screws you will still have shiny slugs and reckon it looks good enough with the mesh.
Cheers, Waz
I had a plan for that as well Waz, the mrs has a heap of really thin backing fabric in black that I can appropriate some scraps from. This'll go under the mesh to do the full black out.Quote:
Originally Posted by wazkelly
Hope it doesn't smother the signal.
You could maybe use black nail polish to paint them instead.
It's still primer grey. At some point it will turn Black.
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I reckon it looks pretty cool in that stealth bomber grey.
Nope, it's going black. At least it will do if I can ever get the damn undercoats flat.
I know how you feel. Going through a bit of that myself with refinishing the Swampy after it fell on it's face a few weeks ago.
Well this one is going back in it's Box for a while.
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I have other projects going on that require less frustrating effort to complete, and haven't yet pissed me off as badly as trying to get this thing flat.
We shall reconvene once I can be arsed sanding this back bare and starting again.
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Ow.
I hope you've tried swearing at it very loudly so that it's quaking in its (virtual) boots, and now knows who's boss and will comply to your every whim in future.
Mmm, yes. Bad Words. Many bad words at high volume.Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
was it only bad near the cavity edges? ..
would painting (sealing at least) all cavities help? . possibly excluding set neck? ..and maybe bolt on too? wouldnt bare edges best be coated?"
not to question the lab, just curious
cheers Guv
Guvna I’ve only myself to blame. I should have take more note of the brittleness of the edges. There is a thin skin applied to the back of this and that is what has caused the issue. It has bubbled in the corner of the control cavity, and it is what is causing the chipping at the edge of the switch cavity.
I should have just sanded the bugger off and gone “thin line”.
no worries Fraken. hope it keeps gettin a look at in the lab now an then, for us to all watch it come good!
I’ll get back to it. I just need to consider how to get around it’s little issues.
Is there a veneer on the back? Pretty annoying. At least with a painted one you can sand back and refinish until it's right. Gets old fast though :)
Oh FUNK yes....I went through enough of that with the EXA-1. Hence it's back in its box for a while.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain
Only just caught up with this. What a bugger.
Stuff happens JH, I have plenty enough to work on while I cogitate on the failings of my black guitar finishes thus far.Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnH
This is true, and surely it gives Igor and yourself a bit more time to write tunes for the Conundrum EngineQuote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
Yes, but I'm playing Metal, Blues and Jazz and he's writing polkas and Oompah music. It's very frustrating.Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnH
In a sense I kind of like seeing the expertise of FW and Igor struggling a bit cause it gives the rest of us "it's not just me", feeling.
Quite humbled by that statement JB. Thank you.
Both black builds seem to have been cursed in some way? Is that why you have reverted to natural on more recent builds?
It’s as if the guitar gods do not wish me to craft a metal weapon in black 🤔🤬Quote:
Originally Posted by wazkelly
Have you tried pink, with a fluffy bunny motif? At least it might prove or disprove the gods theory.
Maybe if you added a silver fern the gods may approve and allow you to achieve a smooth finish, eh bro?Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
Cheers, Wax
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If I do that, I will lose the guitar to my Daughter LOL!Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
Hey frank haven't been on the forum too much since xmas nothing on tonight so having a catch up it looks to me if the paint isn't sticking to the wood and quite a bit and of swell and shrink going on, black is the most pain in the arse to get it flat and to get looking beautiful and real easy to have it look terrible, it certainly requires attention to detail but looks killer when it done right what paint are you using, what are you using as primer and what are you using to fill the grain or sealer. is it a ash or basswood Are you wanting a super flat glass shiny black or a smooth arse matt?Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
It's not the paint, Phroz. The back for some strange reason, came with a veneer on it. It's the veneer that's chipped off on those edges.
Hi phrozin,Quote:
Originally Posted by phrozin
It’s all done in rustoleum rattle cans, 4 undercoats over timbermate, about 4 colour, rubbed back, then 2 over the top of that.
The issue at the back is that there was a seperate single piece veneer across the rear, and this is the bit that is bubbling and chipping.
The paint on the front is sweet as, but this on the back will Sh!t Me up the wall if I don’t fix it.
I have used the same paints in the SV-1 build with no issues, so I think it’s just prep and bad luck.
oh ok veneer on the back that's a bit strange Frank, 1 thing i will tell you and others if your doing a paint finish don't use timber mate for grain filler as it will swell and shrink back as it sucks up the reducer specially if your using rattle cans as they have a retarder in them, which make them idiot proof with shine but take longer to flash off giving it time to soak in to the timber mate and will give you headaches when its polishing time, there are a few things you can use better than that, something i did come across with Ashton guitars they paint on fiberglass resin and sand it back to only leave the grain filled. I am going to try it myself on a Strat i have here after i finish the one's i doing atm you guys know you don't need a grain filler on basswood, maple or any tight thin grain woods
are you thinking on yours the glue is the issue, if its just a thin veneer can you just grab the sander and sand it off or maybe squirt a bit of supa glue around (pre undercoat)where you think its going to chip off but i hear you mate spending the time to get things just right and some thing stupid buggers it up been there done that lol Ill folow this build to see if you get i sorted if you need any help just let me know 😁
Thanks Phrozin, there’s a few issues with it.Quote:
Originally Posted by phrozin
1. The back veneer is pretty thin, a single piece and I dont think it adhered properly in a couple of spots.
2. The timbermate probably hasn’t helped things from what you’ve said.
3. The cover routs go through the veneer and the exposed glue edge seems to have been affected by the repeated applications of paint.
4. The veneer itself seems as if it is pretty delicate.
I’m thinking that I may Bondi the chipped edges, and try to wick some C.A. glue under the bubbled section and see how we go.
The fibreglass resin idea sounds good, I might try that on the vee kit that I have as it’s all mahogany as well.
I have still got no idea on what to do with this one.
I am also not looking forward to sanding it. I'm thinking of stripping the whole thing back and goign with the resin coating idea Phrozin proposed.