Hey Nitro yeah that's a bummer the pup routes are so big
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Hey Nitro yeah that's a bummer the pup routes are so big
time to learn how to make custom ones
i have bought stuff from a guy on the electric guitar resource page on FB, US based, excellent work and nice guy - he could do custom rings and his prices are pretty fair, PM me if you want to know more
You could always top mount the PUP's and chuck the mounting rings as I did on my EX-1?
Hi guys, ive just got round to checking all the parts of the guitar and i think im missing some. Can anyone tell me how you bolt the neck on with the SG-2?. The strat had a neckplate and 4 big screws, but i cant find anything in the kit to fix the neck on with. This was an unclaimed kit with a few mods btw. Gold hardware, bolt on neck thats why i chose it. Thanks for any help.
Hi, the SG-2 has a set neck, so it is glued on.
Think DB is reworking our Video for this process, but here's a good one from Precision Guitar Kits you could refer to in the meantime. Also plenty of advice in the FAQ and How to build your Pit Bull Guitar threads on getting the scale length right.
https://youtu.be/cyXOPq1KW4I
EDIT: Ok, our stock SG-2 was actually bolt on, but I have a feeling this Custom Order was set neck.
If you can take a photo of the heel and pocket we can see which it is and send you neck plate and screws if it is bolt on.
Hi Nitro/Ads,no the SG-2 is a bolt on neck. The SG-1 and SG-1F are set necks.
Nitro if there was no neck plate and 4 screws included Ads will have to send them out to you.
The photos on page 5 show it is definitely a bolt on neck
Ive looked at the pics of the 6/12 string SG and it has 2 neck plates for bolting on the neck, but even in the
SG-2 pics on the site no neck plate can be seen.
Yeah, I just had a look through your thread and definitely a bolt on, so we'll send you a plate and 4 screws on Monday. Gold right?
no worries Nitro, between myself and my 4D buddy Popeye we have built a good percentage of the PBG kits so know them pretty well. All these new models Ads keeps bringing out and bridge upgrades got me keen on a flame tele with Billy Gibbons Babicz bridge !
once again outstanding customer service from Adam
Just ordered the Warman triple G-Rails and 2 on/on/on mini switches. Im very excited about building this one, im going to try mods that i didnt think id be game enough to try before building the ST-1.
New changes........ Walnut veneer to the body and headstock face, finished in high gloss clear, back, neck and back of headstock stained in golden teak, 2x black triple buckers, part modified pickguard in gold pearl, (already ordered), gold hardware, modified volume and tone controls so i can fit in the mini switches without drilling more holes, moving the main bucker switch to where the les paul guitars have it located, and moving the mono jack to the bottom edge below the tone controls. Gold metal trussrod cover and gold Brian May strings. The mini switches will split the humbuckers.
sounds good Nitro, some pretty big mods you are doing. Should be a wicked axe !
Yes hope so woks, will take my time on this one, do a lot of reading and ask for lots of help again from you guys, so im cutting down the mistakes to a minimum. Although i think half the journey is fixing your mistakes and working out any problems you encounter along the way.
haha that's it Nitro, as you say take your time and ask lots of questions and you should minimise any problems with the build. Probably hardest part will be gluing the veneer on the body and getting it nice and flat
Next question...im going to upgrade the plastic nut again but this time i want to upgrade to a black Graph Tec
link.. http://www.realparts.com.au/graph-te...or-gibson.html
The only problem is the size, most SG, gibson compatable nuts are the wrong size, correct shape. The width of my nut is 42mm, most are 43,43.8 and 44. The width of e string to e string is usually 35mm, mine is 34mm. So could i trim a bit off the edges and still have the e strings not fall off?
btw the depth 6mm and height 9mm are always correct...
I wouldn't try that nitro, the wrong string spacing will cause tuning issues.
You could always get some nut files and a blank and shape your own........
I don't know, at the end of the day you are talking about 1mm difference, so that's 1/2mm either side
Well think ive got it sorted, found a black graph nut on guitarfetish site that is 42 mm, so i will order that thanks guys @andy @dedman, that wouldve been a real problem for me.
Pickups arrived last week, been out of it for awhile due to sickness and work back injury, not serious just painful.
They look pretty meaty
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Veneer was a bit warped so i did some research and wet them and sandwiched them between two bare bits of timber then weights on top of them, it worked, nice and flat now.
Measured them, lapped them and cut them, taped the edges together ( credit to youtube) then cut them out to guitar body shape.
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thats gonna look SWEET
next set of pics and question please, will i have to cut out the humbucker holes before i glue on the top??
Thanks again in advanve guys...
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Cut a veneer for the headstock, but dont know whether to use the one ive cut or do a full one...
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Very nice I like the veneer. Not quite sure how you deal with the pickup holes but I remember seeing a Crimson guitar pewtube video where they built a kit tele and added a maple cap. They located pup holes through tapping then drilled through and routed out. Maybe a bit of overkill for a thinner veneer ...
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looks like this is going to be a very interesting build nitro look forward to see it finished, where did you get the veneer from have looked around everywhere for a maple veneer but could find any
My blank pickguard sheet arrived today, looks awesome, im very happy with it, now for some new learning curves cutting it...
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Ok everything was going ok, emphasis on WAS..... Broke a small edge of veneer off, dont think it will show when i glue it back fingers crossed
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Theres 2 ways i can go here to overcome the too large pickup cavities
1) Fill the cavities with timber and sand it flush then cover with the veneer or
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2) Cut out a pickguard to go over the cavities (btw i have to have some sort of pickguard as im changing the position of the 3 way switch and its much easier than me trying to drill through from the back without damaging the front, and then having to make another rear cover for it.)
Any suggestions or advice guys???
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I'd with option 2 because I like the design of the pick guard you've drawn