Ponch you may have to auction the Kwaka to fund all these future projects hahah
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Ponch you may have to auction the Kwaka to fund all these future projects hahah
its just not fair that someones first build looks this good, nice work Hugh
Wokkaboy, I guess I'm just trying to work out what the best options for finishing off the guitar are. I'm pretty happy with how the DT finishing coat is turning out to be honest, but just wondered whether it would be better or even necessary to finish with tru-oil?? Just garnering some info really...
Thanks for the feedback, I really appreciate it.
Attachment 9293Attachment 9294Attachment 9295Attachment 9296Attachment 9297
Another layer (possilble the last..) of neck finishing coat to the headstock/neck.
Unfortunately couldn't seem to get a good focused pics today, it was very sunny out and I reckon there was too many refective light sources? ...once i moved to the shade the pics were a littke better though..
I'll try taking a few pics inside when I get the chance..
Lovely work mate, that headstock grew on me, looks good and the finish is tops
Attachment 9429Attachment 9430
Ok, I need some advise.. Some motling or spotting has developed in the finish.. I'm not sure exactly what it is.. whether it's something in the air thats settled on the wet finish or whether it's fibres from the cloths I used to stain it?? It had been humid here of late? Could that have an effect maybe??
Or something I've done in the Preperation/satining process??
Anyway.. HELP!!! haha... What do I do??
Looking good Hugh
Not sure about the finish, but humidity always seems to cause havoc with most finishes.
Perhaps a gentle sand and reapplication?
Attachment 9463
A closer look.. What do you think guys?
Hi Hugh, so that's the clear coat ? I'd rub it with fine steel wool (if it's been at least 3 days since the last coat) and re-apply. If you can find out what the humidity is probably not worth putting on a coat if it's around 70% or higher.
Also try using a lint free cloth to apply it. Lower grade rags/Tshirts I'd say some is coming off the rag and sticking to the finish
I recognize this kind of stuff on a finishing...when i did my first nitro sprayed project i collect every mistake that its been writen on a list of "bad preps and finish methods"
Humidity upper to 60%, bad sanding level, not clean surface (or insufficient), not stir the can enough, spray in a hot enviroment (over 38º) that causes the clear coat solidify before touch the surface creating white bubbles, spraying too far/near, too heavy coats...so many to consider.
After seeing yours, ¿it is possible that the surface its not enough dry and the dye reacts with the clear coat?
check out this guide
http://www.woodfinishsupply.com/LacTroubleShoot.html
Thanks guys, I'll rub it back and reapply the finish in very thin coats. The weather is meant to be a little cooler the next week or so and Ill try to keep an eye on the humidity ....hopefully things go well this time
G'day Hugh, this happened to me a few times on my EX-5.
Do not be in a hurry to sand back with steel wool as it looks like the last couple of coats were still green and not fully cured and if you touch it too soon it will end in tears.
Woks is right on the money regarding clean rags as old T-shirts have had all the crap washed out of them and you should aim to cut up about 70mm x 70mm squares and use folded over a few times as per DB's vid on the home page.
Patience at this stage is as crucial as timing any humidity.
Hi Waz
Why do say 'don't be in a hurry to sand back with steel wool'? What is the alternative to this? ..are you worried that it's not dry??
G'day Hugh, I have used 0000 steel wool a few times only to find the prior coat was still green after 7 days left to cure and it just rolled up into gummy little messy balls of crud all over the surface. This happened on 3 different occasions much to my disgust and eventually reverted to wet sanding as that didn't cause the surface to take on the resemblance of a pizza base once the topping has been removed.
Lately I have been using micro mesh pads wet that have grits 4000, 6000, 8000 and 12000 and you would be surprised just how much the 4000 pad can cut through. Same for 6000 but as you get up to 8000 this is where they act more in a polishing fashion. Secret is in keeping the surface slightly wet and wiping off the shite regularly with a damp cloth so that you don't drag it back over things and therefore create scratches or gouges in the finish.
Can understand wanting to rush in and finish things off but found DT needs more time once 3 or more intensifier coats have been applied. Gave up on DT top coat as it was no better for curing times either however some other folk have had better outcomes than me and suppose it comes down to overall humidity and the effect that has on curing times.
Ok thanks Waz
For now I have rubbed it back, basically getting rid of all the finish coats and applied a coat of DT intensifier. I'll give that some time to cure then give it a light rub then decide what I'll do next in a few days. It will be sure to be a light coating of either intensifier or finish depending on whether I'm happy with the colour.
If I went down the wet sanding, when is the best time to do it??
At least a week, 10 or 14 days would be better as that gives it more time to cure and harden up.
Attachment 9773
Ok so I rubbed it back with 0000 steel wool. I then applied a couple of layers of the Intensifying coat (I was all out af the stain coat thanks to the Darl getting her hands on it and doing a little craft work.. :( ).
I think I may have lost a little of the colour intensity, but it still looks ok. It's just put my build back 5 or 6 weeks however.. I've still got to reapply the finishing layers, so I am at least a month off putting it together sadly....
PS.. Happy and Safe Easter everyone :cool:
Bummer Hugh. I feel your pain. Its hard but sometime I say whats a few weeks when the finish is going to last forever.
True Andy, I'm fast coming to that conclusion myself..
looks pretty good to me Hugh
Hello Hugh, hope the missus left the intensifier alone as that will help darken thing up a bit if that is what you are after.
On the 2 builds where I used DT ran out of stain and almost ran out of intensifier too. Luckily still had a bit of intensifier left to do a little touch up recently where I accidently sanded back to bare wood (ouch). Not quite the same depth of colour as the stain but if you add enough it gets close.
Attachment 9908
First layer of finishing coat reapplied.... fingers crossed
Yes, Wazkelly.. I still had some intensifier and applied 2 fresh coats after rubbing back..
Looking good Hugh!
cheers,
Gav.
Hey Hugh looking sweet it's interesting for me to see the staining process, my spalted les paul kit is currently in Perth waiting to be put on a plane.
Can't get Dingotone overseas I will be using water based inks and tru oil.
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Attachment 10201Attachment 10202Attachment 10203[ATTACH=CONFIG]Attachment 10204
Ok, so I know this is lame but I've still got a couple of finish coats and some steel wooling to do but I'm hanging out to see what it's gonna look like when it's together..
Looking forward to seeing it finished!!
yeh once you get through to near completion, you start getting itchy feet to see what it sounds like.
Hugh, that is a sexy beastie you've crafted. Loving the black on the red.
Awww man this just makes me more impatient for my spalted paulie to arrive!
Keep it up she's looking guuuud.
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Yeah I totally hear you guys, I'm getting impaitent to see and hear it finished too!! That's why I resorted to just laying the whole thing out will the pick ups etc so I could at least get a look at how it will Basically look at then end.
I'm pretty happy with it.. think I'll nickname it "Jaffa" ..you know.. because of the colours.. =P
That's why you need more than one build on the go so that you are always occupied and have no spare time to get impatient.
True Waz, although I'm not sure I'd get the time to start another build ATM. Work and home life seem to be nuts right now!
Fully understand how too much work gets in the way of having a life.
HELP!! I have wired up my LP exactly how the guide and diagram shows but my pickups are not responding??
When I plug the output jack in I do get a buzz through the amp but then nothing from the pickups.. I have grounded the bridge one of the tone pots..
Not sure what to do???
Some photos of the wiring would help, as then we can highlight specific points to check.
Often no sound will mean that your hot/output is being shorted to ground, sometimes due to a stray wire strand or pot lug touching copper shielding etc. Another common issue is the output jack connections being reversed etc. Is it the same for all switch positions? Is the 'buzz' constant?
Hi Hugh,
don't panic mate, can you please post a couple of close up photos of the control and switch cavities ?
first thing I'd check is the output jack could be wired the wrong way around. The lug contacting the inner sleeve should be earth and the lug that doesn't touch the sleeve (plug tip) is the hot wire.
Also check if any stray wires on pots are touching another lug, or copper shielding if you put that in.
If you haven't put any copper shielding in then all 4 pots must be earthed to the back of the casing.
Also the 2 volume pots the 3rd lug needs to be earthed to the back of the casing
EDIT SNAP Weirdy you beat me by under 60 seconds !
Attachment 10866
The blue wire is connected to the middle lug on the pickup switch
The black wire is earthed to the bridge tone pot
Sorry pic is rubbish!
Hugh looks like you have the output jack wired correctly, but hard to see the focus is terrible.
Maybe please post a pic of the control cavity
You have run an earth wire from the bridge post to a common earth location ?
Attachment 10867
Green to top of neck volume pot
Yellow to middle lug neck vol pot
Blue hot white output jack
Purple middle lug bridge pot