Second intensifying coat applied today.
Attachment 2965
Starting to wonder if that's ochre or blood... :)
If it dries evenly I think it'll be ready for the top coat (next week).
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Second intensifying coat applied today.
Attachment 2965
Starting to wonder if that's ochre or blood... :)
If it dries evenly I think it'll be ready for the top coat (next week).
So I've done this thing with previous builds where I make a logo in a style similar to what the guitar is modelled after. For example my fretless jazz...
Attachment 2970
So this time around, again using waterslide paper:
Attachment 2969
It's an IB-5, so it gets an IB style logo.
I've applied it already, waiting for it to dry before applying the top coat over it.
Attachment 2968
Also waiting for the top coat test I did of a couple of decals on a bit of pine to cure and see that it really does seal the decal in.
I did notice the neck seemed to have gathered some gunge while hanging in my sunroom drying.
It's had two dingotone colourless stain coats.
The gunge is mostly around the edges, the curves of the foot and the head - and along the edges of the neck near the join to the rosewood.
Feels like what you might get left on a surface after you peel a sticker off.
Some 0000 steel wool cleaned it up though.
I really like that logo. Is that a font or did you draw it? If it's a font, do you mind sharing which one it is?
Really looking good Tindrrel, love the colour and the headstock logo.
rob
A bit of both.Quote:
Originally Posted by pablopepper
My attempts to find a proper loadable font mostly just found websites that wanted to install software on my computer.
I did find this, a guitar fan's attempt at completing the font in the same style.
Cutting and pasting their letters, creating the T based on looking at other fonts and adding some dabs to join the letters together gave me something in the style I wanted.
hey Sam (finally found out your name), the build coming along really well and love the colour intensity ! Headstock logo looks great too. Think your stain got mixed up and you were sent Karijini red
It does seem to be much redder than the ochre on your ST-1.Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
yeah I'm pretty sure you got Karijini red. It's a great colour and it really suits the IB5 !
First top coat of Dingotone Colourless went on the neck today.
Had to clean up the surface with some steel wool to get rid of whatever had gathered on it.
Then had to clean it again to get rid of the steel wool dust.
Looks shiny at the moment, only a thin coat. I expect to apply a couple more and maybe thicken the coat on the face of the headstock to make the decal edges invisible.
sounds good Sam, got any pics to post ?
Yeah ok. Wasn't going to. Didn't think it was thaaat interesting. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
Attachment 3009Attachment 3010
And one without the flash to show some of the real colour. Attachment 3011
looking good Sam
Coming along nicely. Always good to see some piccies!
all pics are good Sam, nice to see some progress
Time for another intensifying coat on the body.
The last one seemed to streak a little.
Attachment 3073
The streaks seemed to originate at the edge of the cap. Perhaps I overlapped and built too much up when I did the front and then the side.
I sanded the streaks off with steel wool. Gave it another coat.
The coats don't seem to be leaving an even colour. The bottom half seems lighter than the top half - and there are some patches that are much lighter.
Attachment 3074
Looking at the photos of the body before sanding I don't see any obvious reason for that patch to be coming up lighter.
Also, another neck top coat done.
Attachment 3075
Not really seeing anything build up here yet. Still just looks like the bare wood.
You can go over the lighter patches again Sam on the next coat, dunno about the neck!
hey Sam, sometimes different parts of the ash wood take more stain than other areas. Might be worth rubbing it back lightly with about 600 or 800 grit paper and try and even out the colour a bit more.
Also DB recommends you wipe over the body once and don't over work the stains.
How many clear coats are on the neck ? I'd just keep applying and steel wool in between hopefully will build up over more coats.
Also keep the coats thin and allow plenty of curing time about 4+ days in the cooler weather
I only gave it a single wipe for each coat that I've applied, except I think I may have overlapped at the edges. It's also possible it gathered in the join of the cap and ran from there. I'm all out of intensifying coat now, so hopefully I'll be happy with this latest coat.
It's only the second clear coat of the neck.
Letting them cure until after the weekend before doing any more.
Wasn't really a problem I was raising about the neck, I was just commenting on how it can't really be seen. I expect to do a couple more coats there.
ok Sam. Wait a few days. I've found the oils take time to cure and it may darken a little over the coming days.
One thing DB stresses about Dingotone is you need to be patient !
Hey Sam, looking great. As wooka said I would just keep at the neck coats. The clear coats can take a few coats to soak into the grain and start to create some definition in the maple. In the end though the clear finishes really do bring out the maple's natural beauty. It's just gotta soak in there some more.
cheers,
Gav.
So it's been a week and then some since I applied the last neck top coat.
What I notice is that the feel of it is very rough. There are lumps as well.
The 0000 steel wool doesn't seem to have much effect.
Should I be trying some super fine wet and dry to smooth it out between coats?
Or perhaps leave that until after the coats have built up a hard shell?
When I'm finishing neck (I have been recently using truoil) I usually find it takes a few coats to build up. It then, more often than not, starts to feel rough and looks dull. I knock back with a very fine wet sanding (at least 800 grit) then build up coats again very very thinly with a fine steel woolling here and there.
I've found that temperature/humidity combos and possibly over-working can cause the coat to go a bit rough in places while it's drying, almost like a sharkskin feel. I used some 1200-1500 grit (dry) *very lightly* to knock back the high spots and then a light rub with 0000 steel wool to finish up and the next coat turned out nice and smooth again. I think you're probably better off smoothing any rough DT coats before progressing otherwise you'll end up amplifying the problem.
Yep. I do 4 coats without sanding in between then I'll start steel wooling between each. Never had an issue with rough neck feel with this method
So I gave it a very light wet 1500 sanding. Just enough to take out the bumps.
If the finished neck ends up anything like how it feels now I'll be very happy with it. Minus being wet that is.
It still needs a few more coats though.
Second coat of the body top coat has been settling for 4 days now. (Dingotone final coat)
From it's appearance I'm wondering if there's something I'm doing wrong.
Attachment 3213
The shiny sections are smooth like one might expect a top coat to be. The duller parts feel like wood.
This was applied with a cloth, swipe following the grain, then swipe next to that and so on across the body.
Am I putting it on too thin or are the shiny parts too thick? Are they what I should expect as the finish?
To be clear, the dull area far surpasses the shiny area. This is the back, most of the front is dull.
it could be just a combination of thin coats and varying permeability of the timber: it is soaking up differently across the body. You might simply need to keep going.
DB recommends fairly generous curing time too, as there are no curing agents in Dingotone
I'm with Stan, I would keep going with maybe superfine wirewoolling in between coats and see what happens (with ample curing time between each coat)
The shiny part seems quite hard, I think it's curing ok. It's just the gaps. I guess the thinking is that I may have wiped those too thin or even wiped them off when I did the wipe next to it.
More coats it is. Not in a rush.
Yeah I'd go for more coats Sam, but it could also be from you wiping across the grain? Try just wiping the excess off along the grain(as if you were sanding the body back) and keep the coats as light as possible. Also in our crap weather I'd give more time than usual to let the stain cure!
OK, I'd checked for this before and found no sign that it's what was happening.
I suspected the top coat had just run off the body completely, but there was no drops on the board below where I hung it.
This time I caught it.
Attachment 3221
I think the reason the top coat isn't building up with multiple coats is that each coat running off.
That drop has gathered from runs all down the body joining across the bottom edge headed to the lowest point.
Maybe I need to do the front and back one at a time and let it cure laying flat.
Sam looks like the coats are too thick, I've never seen runs with Dingotone or Wudtone.
Also might pay to apply the coats during the warmest part of the day.
There are no drying agents in DT so if its too cold it won't cure.
I'd steel wool it back and apply thin coats and don't overwork the rag. Wipe on once only
Not sure how I can get them any thinner. I dab the cloth in the liquid, then squeeze it til it drips back into the pot. Then one wipe down the body, and a wipe next to that with no overlap, and so on until the cloth is barely wetting the body then dip it in the pot again.Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
Lately, the warmest part of the day is still not much more than 12 degrees.
Maybe I need to give up on it and try something with a curing agent in it. Any suggestions? Something I can still put over the existing stain?
yeah think the weather is too cool I'd say.
Tru oil is compatible with DT stains.
Queensland Gun exchange ships it, not many places post it because its a flammable liquid.
Or you could try any local gun stores
http://www.qldgunexchange.com/QGEWeb...roductId=34225
The local gun store has Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil.Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
I'm going to ask DB for advice. Will see where to go from there.
Sam I remember the gunstore just up in Clayton has Tru Oil, I think that's the one you are talking about?
all three of us are going to get a nice sentence in the naughty warehouse from DB recommending naughty oil haha
That's the one.Quote:
Originally Posted by keloooe
Well, I haven't decided that's the route I'm going to take yet. Just researching. On that note, is the tru-oil likely to cure quicker even in the cooler temps of Melbourne? Reading about it, supposedly usually takes hours to be touch dry instead of days.Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy