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Kurt I think a shim in the neck pocket will be the safest fix. Don't sand the neck heel or pocket as it's important these are flat.
Surely there's some online instructions how to fit the locking nut.
If you are unsure maybe the guy who helped you with the trem routes can help ? Don't start cutting or sanding the nut area till you have enough information, last thing you want is to need a new neck
Woks, I understand what you mean, however, the floyd rose's string height is about 10 millimetres lower than what it would have been with the Tune-o-matic bridge on it. Which means if you tried to attach the neck right now, and put some strings on, the end of the neck touches the neck so the heigh of the neck has to come down before I can even start to consider neck angle, of which I will probably use a shim. I wish I could post some pictures to show you what I mean but The computer is all packed away because I'm in the middle of moving :(
So a long awaited update. I did some work and I ended up sanding at the neck heel. Worked to perfection. The neck is now at the right height and angle for the floyd rose. Following that, a few chocks had been placed for the locking nut, which now also fits perfectly and to perfection. Head stock had been cut out using the bandsaw at work. (I work in a butchery) shhhh. Looks good but haha. 2 coats of primer filler were applied and then sanded back with 120 grit. Then a further 5 coats of primer filler were applied and will be sanded back with a fine sandpaper. My guitar surprisingly was rather flat. So not a great deal of preparation was needed. The primer is now curing to make sure it's set hard ready for paint. Which has decided to be a polar white with a black pinstripe about 8mm thick around the outside edge. If I knew how to post photos on my phone then you could all see the process. So they will be up later instead. Cheers, Kurt.
sounds good Kurt, glad its working out well !
so your headstock has bits of beef or lamb stuck to it ? haha
Interesting using a butcher's bandsaw!!! Try cooking it on the BBQ see if it tastes like the last meat it cut!
Just sit back and wait for whoever comes back claiming their steak tastes like sawdust!
Hahah I cleaned the it extremely well before I used it woks, I made sure of that. I did clean it afterwards to.. Just not quite as good I don't think xD no it should be fine. It came together quite nicely actually, the neck is rather slim now and close the body which I love. The black trim should hopefully go onto it tomorrow and the White hopefully the day after, should work out quite well 😊
sounds good Kurt
So now we know where the old butchers sawdust comes from. You better hope the health department at your local council don't find out. I wouldn't be advertising that you used the bandsaw in that way. Even here, anyone can see these posts.
Thanks stan.
To be fair, it was taken outside and cleaned extremely thorough before and after I used it, not to mention it was a privately owned shop. Everything was checked thoroughly with health and safety. It's not like I would purposely fill a fresh food environment with sawdust, It was thoroughly thought out :) and just to clear it up, the butchers sawdust is a buildup from bones, marrow, and very fine bits of meat :)
MMMMMMMMMM meat.......
some photographic updates:
i skipped some photos of the primer filler but that's not that exciting we all know what that looks like, nothing interesting. so here is some photos with the black on it and it all taped up, the white should go over it tomorrow morning :)
EDIT: M computer wont upload the photos for some reason, does anyone know why this is happening, is it to do with an update on the website or something? is there another way to do this?
Kurt, try and resize the photos to about 100kb they should upload ok
thanks woks, worked aa treat :)
looking very nice Kurt,
looks like with the tape you have done white faux binding ?
should look wicked
looking good Kurt, that is the neatest taping I've seen!
Looks glow in the dark :D
@nick i thought the same thing when i saw taping her up, might do a glow in the dark paint on another build!
@Stan, Thanks mate, it took a little while to tape up but i have a severe case of OCD so it was going to be the neasest taping in the world or no taping at all xD
@Woks, fill me in, what on earth is white faux binding? haha, should look very nice indeed though :)
just a quick update, colour went on yesterday so here is the main colour of it :)
tape came off this morning and im about to start clear coating the entire thing, should look sweet, pictures up within a few days hopefully.
UPDATE TIME 😁
The tape came off, clear coat went on and the clear coat reacted 😔 I could have cried, I've sanded the paint back on this thing way too many times! So naturally I started to sand back again, only to realise that as I sanded away the reacted clear, the paint looked really good again!
So i came to the conclusion that when I put the clear coat on, it was too cold in temperature. The clear reacted with this cold and turned it cloudy. The lesson I learned, make sure it's a fairly warm day to put clear or any sort of paint on! Luckily for me, the cloudy clear didn't soft through the paint and just reacted on top, allowing it to be sanded away.
So I redid the clear on a warmer day! WOTHOUT having to sand back the colour.. And I am so happy with it! Stoked!! It's currently been hanging since Sunday curing.
My new concern is the wiring. The way that these websites are designed these guitars or 'suggested' I should say, is 2 volume, 2 tone. But I'm not a big fan of 2 volume, is there another way I can do this by using 1 volume, 2 tones, and possibly something else? I'm no wiring expert, so all options and opinions will be greatly considered!
Cheers,
Kurt 😊
I think the clear reacted with the adhesive from the tape Kurt, you need to lightly sand it after removing the tape to get it down to just paint.
Hey Kurt, good news the clear coat is now sorted. I had the same thing happen to me Sunday must have been too cold and it went cloudy and bubbled up immediately.
Plenty of wiring options with 4 pot holes. Have a master volume, 2 tones and the 4th hole could have a kill switch or coil split if your pickups have 4 wires.
Or a mini switch could change the pickups to series or parallel.
If resident wiring guru Weirdbits sees this post he will have much more possible options depending what sounds you are chasing.
I would love to have a cool split but with the pickups that come with it I don't think they have 2 wires, will have to double check. I had a quick read about the whole series and parallel, I can't remember which is which but does a guitar normally run in parallel or series? And this is only giving it the other option? Or have I gone and confused myself? A killswitch wouldn't be too bad but I have a pedal on my pedal board for that and it would sort be unnesasary I guess.
i feel your pain mate, I have one I have redone about 3 times and it's not finished yet - cold does all sorts of bad to paint. Warm the surface to be painted with a heater, and put the cans of paint into warm water before sing, much more success
Normally, humbuckers are wired in series (between their coils) but pickups are combined in parallel (middle position on 3-way toggle). Coil split, series/parallel coils, parallel/series connections between pickups are all options, but it depends on how many wires your pickups have, and/or if you're willing to do some surgery on them if they've only got hot & ground.
Something like this is a good starting point:
http://www.guitarelectronics.com/med...2hh3t12_07.jpg
If you ignore the split/series/parallel switches and master series/parallel, it's just a master volume and two tones. Then, depending on you pickup wires etc. you can add one or more of the other switches.
Alternately, you could just have master volume, two tones and then a switch to select between different tone capacitors etc. It really depends on what controls you normally use, and what you're likely to use if you had it.
Oh dear I think I've entered a whole new world of confusion there wierdy! I don't really understand much of that diagram haha. They pickups I was planning on putting in this thing are the standard chrome plated things 😝 it has 2 wires. A bare wore (which I can only assume is a ground wire) and a white covered wire (active wire?). Depending on how hard surgery is, I would just go through with a split coil system of that works with these pickups, I wouldn't have a clue in the slightest! Please help haha!
Have a read through DB's coil split mod guide and see what you think. If that's too complex or the risk of killing your pups is too great (and if you don't want to buy some multi-wire pups), then I can just draw up a simple master volume, two tone with cap switching diagram for you.
It doesn't look to hard, I'll have a crack with a spare pup tomorrow and see how I go, :)
If you want to roll the dice and go all out... you can have a go at converting them to 4 wire + ground. It's more involved and more risk, but you'll then have the full series/parallel/split options available.
Or spend about $100 and get some new Toneriders? I'd put the Rocksongs in a LP any day of the week, plus they are nice and hot, but if you do want a more Slash like pickup then the AC2 or AC4 should suffice (but I don't know if they have the 4 conductor wires).
Okay so I've strted to split the coil and see how easy it is, I've had a few problems but nothing major, check DBs coil cutting thread to see what I'm talking about if I havnt stuffed it up too bad I might just go with the coil split idea. Something I've always wanted and should be easy enough to do :)
Ok Kurt, as per the PM here's an annotated diagram to help with the coil spit mod:
Attachment 3770
As I've said before, be very careful handling and/or moving the pickup's wires as it doesn't take much to break either the connections to the coil wire or the coil wire itself.
I know your new shielded wire is 2 core but we only need one of them for this, so pick a colour and just ignore the other one. Cut to length, trim and strip the tips as needed to get it to line up with where you need it to make the connections.
You don't want to cut the series link wire (black), you just want to pare enough of the insulation off so that you can join the coil split core wire onto it (essentially, you are tapping onto that wire). Very careful use of a sharp craft/x-acto knife works well to remove some of the insulation. Once you've cleared a small gap in the insulation on the series link wire carefully solder your coil split core wire onto it.
The coil split shield wire connects to the existing pickup bare shield wire (ideally where it is soldered to the baseplate), so solder that in place too. On these pickups the original shield wire is usually split into two, with one branch going to a coil and the other going to the baseplate. Connecting your coil split shield wire to the baseplate branch is the stronger and safer option.
Once you've made the connections ensure they are insulated with heatshrink and/or electrical tape so they can't short with anything (not so much an issue with the bare shield wire, but definitely insulate the series link/coil split core join).
IMPORTANT: before you put the cover back on the pickup make a note of which coil the white 'hot' wire connects to. In the above image you can see the white core of the original pickup wire connects to the 'slug' coil (as opposed to the 'screw' coil). You need this information for each pickup when it comes to wiring your coil split switch. Check this on each pickup and write it down before you close them up, as it can very between pickups. For example, in this thread the bridge hot is the slug coil and the neck hot is the screw coil.
Once you've got all that sorted let me know and we can work on drawing up a wiring diagram for you with coil splitting to match your coil/hot configuration.
Clear as mud?
Jesus, I think I've got it though. Quick question though, the 'shield' wire is just the earth wire right?
Attachment 3771
heres that picture wierdy...
Ah nope, sorry, that's not what you need. That appears to be for mains wiring... active, neutral, earth. What you need is shielded audio cable, that is the 'shield' wire surrounds the inner core wire(s) like the yellow/red wire that's already connected to your pickups (like in my image above).
Something like this:
Single core screened (shielded), 2 core screened (shielded) or 4 core screened (shielded)
(or online from the places I mentioned the in the PM)
Buy a couple of metres just in case, as you may need some extra for wiring the guitar.
Nope I've givven up, I'm just buying a some split system pickups, all but finished it and as I put the cover back on I hear a *tink*... Took the cover off clearly and all the coil wire has just snapped. So I've decided it can go in the bin where I never want to see that useless damn thing ever again! Do pitbull sell any good split system pickups?
So I ended up deciding on the entwhistle DN (I think) range. Look good, should sound nice, and do what I want, while I'm at it, what switch do I need to order for the split system, is there a specific brand that is or type of switch that is better to get?
The switch brand doesn't really matter, it just needs to be an On/On DPDT (double pole double throw) mini toggle switch. Mini-toggles typically need a mounting hole about 6mm, which means it should fit nicely in the stock PBG mini pot holes.
Something like either of these:
On/On DPDT mini-toggle, flat handle (I prefer flat handles)
On/On DPDT mini-toggle, bat handle
You just need to make sure the switch collar (with the thread) is long enough to extend through the body so you can get the nut on it.
Quick update, just ordered the new pickups, ilol leave them as a surprise, I also ordered the new mini toggle switch.
On another note, I just realised, after all this time, that I need a cover plate for the back panel where the floyd Rose will sit. So what's the best way of going about this, do I just custom order one from somewhere or can i just buy some material and cut it myself (which I would prefer. If I can do method B, where can I get that sort of material from?
a) I have a spare one you can have. Black, I think.
or
b) I will cut you one. Pretty much any colour you like.