oh yeah I forgot about printing whites/creams. I'd give it a crack and see how you go. If you don't have any luck could be worth seeing if Andyport can cut a vinyl logo with the cream ontop of the white
Printable View
oh yeah I forgot about printing whites/creams. I'd give it a crack and see how you go. If you don't have any luck could be worth seeing if Andyport can cut a vinyl logo with the cream ontop of the white
It might be an idea to spray a little clear after the white layer dries. Obviously it will take a couple more days, waiting for the clear to set, but then you don't have to worry about ruining the first layer with the second.
I think I have a trick to nail it. Get the wife to do it. She's incredibly crafty and stuff haha.
yer I'd do what Pablo suggested Andrew, put a clear coat after the white logo goes on so the decal doesn't lift/move when you apply the cream decal.
You got 3 goes to get it right !
If the 1st try fails then give it to the wife to try !
Sounds like a plan. Will put the white on tonight, clear in the morning then on my day off Thursday it'll be cream, then clears. Home stretch. Just emailed Adam about my second kit, hopefully order it soon. Who said 8 electrics is too many.
Looks great. good job getting it so straight.
No-one around here, that's for sure. Great looking decal, I would be tempted to just leave it white.Quote:
/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from andrew on July 22, 2014, 17:30
Who said 8 electrics is too many.
Oh no! The first decal snapped when I pulled it off the backing, now I wake up to this! What went wrong?
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...8-IMAG0379.jpg
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...0-IMAG0383.jpg
bummer Andrew, by the looks of the EX headstock there's still some moisture underneath has caused this. Did you wipe it clean before you applied the logo ?
I don't use decal logos anymore due the chance of the fogging up of the clear paper doing this.
Looks like you will have to remove it and try again.
Maybe next time wipe the moisture off underneath the backing paper before you apply it. Also make sure the headstock is clean and dry before you apply it. Also wipe off any moisture once the logo is in place. Looks like there are water droplets on the logo on the photo.
Took me quite a few goes to get applying them correctly
Noooooooooooo. No chance it will dry out by its self?
I'd remove the logo and next time wipe the backing paper dry after you remove it from the water and make sure the headstock is dry before you apply the logo. The larger the logo the more chance of this happening I'd say
It's also why its advisable to cut off as much of the "clear" part of the decal as possible. This can be very problematic with large decals, but generally it is best if the there is only a small clear border around the words or images of the decal.
Did you lay down a layer of clear before you applied the decal? They'll certainly do this if applied to bare paint.
Thanks for the tips guys. There is clear down and wet sanded to 2000 so it's all smooth. Seeing as I only have one left I'll try savage it by carefully scraping off the bad areas with a blunt toothpick and some 2000 wet dry but if it fails I'll redo it. Getting nervous.
No dice. Shafted the last one. Oh well, of to the local printer to get some vinyls done. They said they have some ultra thin transperant vinyl stuff that they use to put logos on fishing rods that get cleared over.
bugger, oh well Andrew, chalk it up as a learning experience.
You should have more luck with vinyl logos
Fingers crossed. It's all one piece with the clear coming up to the edge of the text so hopefully won't be noticeable.
for starters you have a much higher chance of success if the 2 colours of the logo are in 1 application
True. The logo is only one colour anyway. I needed the white down first to put the colour over as it needed a white solid colour as the base. The cream is translucent so would get lost on the black
The guy I got the decals from reckons he can't print solid colours.
Turns out I can get ten vinyls for $15. Decals were threw for $25. Winning.
So while waiting for the stickers to get printed I did a final polish and glued the neck in. Looks like a guitar now!
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...r-IMAG0387.jpg
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...m-IMAG0384.jpg
looks great Andrew, presume with the bridge/tailpiece bushes in that you lined up the neck with the outer strings on before the glue set ?
Good deal on the vinyl stickers, so you wouldn't have got that deal and found a new supplier if you didn't stuff up the 3 decal logos !
Yeah mate all lined up. The measurements for the nut to 12 to saddle was all accurate. Now it's time to plan the next build. I wonder if we can custom order a baritone 7 string with a hard tail.
Neck is glued in, solid as and first meeting with the rest of the family. Only one day off being yesterday this week so didn't get as much done as I would've liked but thems the breaks. Pots are soldered on a card board template, just need to drop the pups, switches and Jack in, string her up and annoy the neighbours.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...5-IMAG0388.jpg
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...e-IMAG0390.jpg
Sweet! That faux binding has worked out really well.
Thanks mate.
looking good Andrew,
pretty exciting stage of the build when you are ready to wire and string up.
Have you done any fret levelling ? You may be lucky and have a level neck
Not yet mate. Been researching it though. Going to wait til its strung up to see if it has any head notes and go from there. I saw a video of a guy placing sandpaper grit side up on the fret then sanding a fret shaped groove into a piece of soft wood to match the profile. Seemed like a good at home option without buying expensive crowning files.
Hi Andrew, have you seen this thread on fret levelling?
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/commun...iewtopic&t=179
Yeah have read it stacks, it's like my bible currently haha. Thanks for the link though, will book Mark it.
Cool!Quote:
/<\\/p>[/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/]<\\/p>/Quote from andrew on July 25, 2014, 13:44
Yeah have read it stacks, it's like my bible currently haha. Thanks for the link though, will book Mark it.
Had to get it out there since it was written by two self proclaimed guru's, legends in their own lifetime! :p
Total pros those guys haha. I'll be going the home job route for this one. I've got a Tele kit I built a while back that I'll practice on before I do the ex. Easier to replace a bolt on neck if I wreck it than the glued in one.
As much as I've wanted to pull my hair out numerous times on this build I've enjoyed it so much I've just order two more kits. Both are the ib7 kits but they differ a little. The first one, tweedle b, will be left pretty standard, tuned standard, just different pups maybe. I want to marble this with black and silver with candy red and a black burst.
Tweedle doom is special to me. 27" scale, quilted maple on basswood, black hardware and a tune o matic instead of the Floyd. This thing will get new pups, locking tuners. This beast will be tuned like an 8 string without the high e. Not sure what finish to do on this yet. Defs stained but not sure about colours. Have until oct/nov to finalise anyway. Mega excited now.
Hey guys. I've got all the electronics in and plugged in everything works, but I'm getting an insane amount of noise. Should I go back over the grounds and resolder them or does having it strung up help eliminate this?
Double check your jack. I reckon about 60% of noise cause is when people switch the ground with the hot on the jack.
Thanks mate. Hope you're right. It's a coil tap dual humbucker set up so there is about 100000 wires in there. Because of that, there is a stack of grounds connected to the pots. Is it ok to have the wires grounded to different parts of the pot or is it recommended to have one point in each pot and stick to that.
When I wire grounds I usually do pigtail connections and wire the lot to one point on the pot but it shouldn't really matter all too much. As long as you get the pot hot enough to flow the solder properly you will be fine. Double check your joints are all shiny. Dull ground joint might be cold and causing the noise too.
Does it stop when you touch parts of the hardware (bridge/strings/pots)?
All the joints seem nice and shiny. Yeah it does stop when I touch a pot. Wonder what it is.