Acoustic Build in 10 days - Gav

Finally, complete the remaining bracing as shown below and allow to dry for 90 - 120 minutes.

Note that each brace is chiseled into the 'X' brace for added strength.

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While the braces dry, we turn our attention to the fretboard.

Working on the fret board with 180 grade sandpaper, don’t forget to use the correct radius block and double sided tape on the sandpaper. Long smooth strokes are best.

Using the Dremel drill, rout out the inlays for the finger board after marking these with liquid paper. Use a thin 2mm chisel for the sharp corners that the dremel cant reach.
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With the fret board cleaned up with the sandpaper, you should now draw a centre line down the middle and position where you intend to place the inlays at the 5th, 7th, 9th, 12th and 15th frets as shown above. The inlays should be glue with 5 minute epoxy and then clamped. Superglue will work too.


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Use the appropriate radiused fretboard sanding block to sand the fretboard into shape.
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nice to see how its done Gav

Think I need to fire up this thread again since 10 days has definitely elapsed.

haha nice one Gav your last post was last day of 2013 !

This is very very cool!!

damn this is tech, a lot more tricky than electrics for sure.

Fitting the Fretboard

This is a 12 fret to the soundboard neck, meaning that there are 12 frets on the neck itself and the remaining frets are actually resting on the soundboard.

The correct positioning of the fretboard is to ensure that the 12th fret aligns exactly with the edge of the neck as pointed out below.

At the other end of the fretboard you will find the nut. Now we position the nut and draw two lines on the neck (at the headstock) to mark the position of the nut. Because we will want the nut to sit flush on the neck, and because there is 'that' angle where the headstock falls away from the neck, we have to adjust the nut and the headstock veneer so that the nut will fit flush against the fret board (because we angle the base of the nut. But we also need the headstock veneer to fit flush against the nut when in position. Cut, file or plane the headstock veneer to this angle. Now place the headstock veneer into position and clamp as shown below.

Here I have the headstock veneer pressed up against the headstock with my fingers. Essentially we want to wedge the nut in place between the fret board and the veneer.

We are going to start putting the neck together now:
Clamping the veneer to the headstock, in total there will be 10 clamps required. Wait for the titebond to become a little bit tacky so that it doesn’t slip and slide as the clamps are put into place.

Finishing the initial stages of the back of the guitar body. Using a router I remove the excess wood from the back of the body of the guitar using a straight router bit with a bearing for this purpose. Working with the grain not against it or there will be chip-out which will damage the guitar.

Place the body of the guitar back into the mould to receive the sound board, since the guitars may not go all the way into the mould, prop up the back /bottom of the guitar with angled ply wood so that the guitar sits evenly through out the mould.

Use a set square if necessary to assist with the levelling process.

Nice one Gav I'll have a good read of this tomoz. Don't Look away too long Gav or your avatar may change. Think I borrowed the pink tool kit from your man Cave so you didn't even have to use Google images haha