Brendan,
Use the one I gave you at the swap meet!
Gav
Brendan,
Use the one I gave you at the swap meet!
Gav
6-a-side or 3-a-side headstock. Just looking at the pictures I can visualise it with a offset 3-a-side pointy headstock. A bit like an upside down Iceman headstock.Quote:
/<\\/p>[/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/]<\\/p>/Quote from dingobass on June 11, 2013, 20:09
Today I finally finished the template / routing jig.
Going for an EMG HZ for the bridge and a Golden Age hot wound single at the neck.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...g-IMG_1714.JPG
Will be installing a Babicz Full Contact TOM bridge and Steinberger Machine Heads on this build.
My good buddy Mr Tim, extreme metal sculptor, welded the end on my cut down Bass truss rod.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...2-IMG_1715.JPG
Six a side, this one will have a Fenderesque shaped headstock...
Managed to find some time today to do some more work on the Jagitone.
Routing pup cavities, neck pocket and whilst I was at it I decided to rout the shape.. Fun....
First up, locate template so everything lines up, clamp and the drill holes 24mm deep for the pup routs.
These holes give me a place to start the rout and the depth, takes a lot of faffing about out of the job.
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Pup routs to depth and the body shape cut out.
It is faster to cut the shape out on a bandsaw, but I thought this method was worth a try.
I don't think I will do it again but if you have a router this is a good way to get a nice smooth edge, saving on lots of sanding!
Next a quick check to see that the pups fit and the top routs are done!
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DB! I am amazed you were able to rout that in the way you did. I would have rough cut it on the bandsaw and then trimmed it up flush with the router!
That is so clean!!!
*note to self* when I get a router, use it instead of a saw to cut the body shape....
Quote:
/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from keloooe on June 14, 2013, 15:55
That is so clean!!!
*note to self* when I get a router, use it instead of a saw to cut the body shape....
Note to Callum....probably wise to take out detached finger insurance before you do!
Lots of shallow cuts were involved.... Done it once but won't do it this way again....
Note to Gavin and DB... Probably wise to teach me how to get my hands on a router :DQuote:
/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from Gavin1393 on June 14, 2013, 16:57
Quote:
/<\\/p>[/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/]<\\/p>/Quote from keloooe on June 14, 2013, 15:55
That is so clean!!!
*note to self* when I get a router, use it instead of a saw to cut the body shape....
Note to Callum....probably wise to take out detached finger insurance before you do!
Rule 1. Be extremely scared of the router... They are potentially dangerous tools.
I have mentioned the flying router bit that now (thankfully) resides on my neighbours roof and not in my body.
Rule 2. Be even more scared of the router as this will teach you respect for the tool. (see rule 1)
Rule 3. If you are blase about the potential life altering and physically damaging possibility of not respecting the routers ability to screw you up, see rule 1.
Rule 4. Refer to rule 1.
BTW, every time I use the router I need a change of underwear.....
Noice rules DB!!!! I use a lawn mower a lot, and that's scary when you go over the same tree root every time!!!
I bet a router would be scarier :P
Agreed 110% DB, routers scare the hell out of me too, so much can go wrong, but when a template is smooth and router height set well you get a good result. Well done DB the jagitone looking sweet. What colour you got planned ? Pest I suggest you ask your woodwork teacher for a lesson
With a cupboard full of wudtone, it is a hard decision to make, Woks...
At this time I am tending towards Burning Sun, but Goldenrod and my custom Butterscotch are high on the list as well....
i dont know if he has a router, i dont think we use them at all, we have other good machines though, I know how to use them all now :D
probably don't have a router at school because of the risk level...
Yeah, most likely DB!!!
Goldenrod and Butterscotch burst with a burning sun neck???Quote:
/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from dingobass on June 14, 2013, 20:22
With a cupboard full of wudtone, it is a hard decision to make, Woks...
At this time I am tending towards Burning Sun, but Goldenrod and my custom Butterscotch are high on the list as well....
Woodwork class Rule # 1: Don't eviscerate students.Quote:
Quote from dingobass on June 14, 2013, 22:05
probably don't have a router at school because of the risk level...
The powers that be take all the fun out of teaching.....Quote:
/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from WeirdBits on June 15, 2013, 13:30
Woodwork class Rule # 1: Don't eviscerate students.Quote:
/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from dingobass on June 14, 2013, 22:05
probably don't have a router at school because of the risk level...
jeez.. you wouldn't wanna loose your guts or eyes out of the learning cycle...gasp...
Not wrong there AJ..
I had a router bit fly out at full revs.. Lucky for me the window was open in the Man Cave and the bit went that way.
Ended up on the neighbours roof where it still sits to this day, as Gavin put it, plotting my demise! :)
I have also had a bit shatter, spraying small shards of Tungsten Carbide all over the place.
Note to self and everyone... DO NOT buy router bits from Bunn....stillcan'tsaythatword... or any other chain hardware store.
ALWAYS buy good quality from a specialist. They last longer and if handled with respect won't explode....
Like StewMac bits!!!
Anyhoo, moving along...
Neck Day!
First up, I mark the centre line on my chunk of Rock Maple neck blank, line up my trusty template and draw the outlines of the neck profile.
After determining where the truss rod needs to sit in the neck I get out my trusty 8mm brad point drill and wrap a piece of tape around it as a depth gauge for the routed groove.
Next up I clamp the neck blank to the trusty work mate bench, set up the router guide rail so the bit will cut down the centre line.
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Let the routing begin....
I take shallow cuts as the chips fill the groove up otherwise and this can be a pain in the butt to clean out.
Once I have the groove to the correct depth, I need to widen and deepen the groove at the headstock end to accept the adjusting thingy housing.
When this is done, the truss rod sits flush with the top of the neck blank.
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Now is a good time for a router bit installation 101.
As you can see in this picture, I have unscrewed the collet completely.
This is to show how far you should have the shank of the router bit seated.
The shank protrudes at least 5mm from the bottom of the collet jaws.
This bit is staying put!
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...f-IMG_1740.JPG
Headstock and final shaping.
Next I attack the headstock area with the router to get the face offset depth roughed in.
In this case I am going slightly deeper than normal to accommodate a 4mm thick face plate ( Black Walnut)
You will see that I have not routed the whole area, this is to leave some footing for the router!
Then it is time to cut the neck profile from the blank.
I prefer to use a jigsaw for no other reason than I like Jigsaws!
Once the neck is liberated from the blank it is time to glue the Headstock veneer on.
Next, lunch and a cold beer (A really tasty Steamrail, courtesy of our good Mate Wokka- Cheers Buddy!)
Until next time :)
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Oy Phil . . .
This project is truly astounding.
To see what you are capable of producing from scratch is really inspiring.
P.S. I've duly noted the dire warnings about routers - always been wary, but will henceforth be even more circumspect & never go without the safety specs.
Here's a pic of my "modded" router - a sorta lame (and vaguely) musical play on words.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content.../pp5vx-001.JPG
Nice one Max :)
Hey DB these Scratch build diarys are excellent. you will have to teach me how to build a scratch neck, love the process
Hey Woks.
Gavin and I have had a few talks about running a few short build courses sometime in the future.
We would most likely hold them in Gav's Man Cave as he has got more room! (So jealouse of his Man Cave).....
The more interest we get the sooner this is likely to happen.
Ladies and gentlemen, let the hassling begin!
sounds like a great idea DB, yes myself and Wayne would be super keen to attend a short build course
The more interest we get the sooner this is likely to happen.
Ladies and gentlemen, let the hassling begin![/quote]
Consider yourself hassled by little old me . . .
wait, whats the cost though??
Now for the fun bit.... getting a nice straight edge on the neck.
To do this I attach my trusty template and rout, at this stage I only take 10mm off as I need a surface to use as a guide for for the fingerboard placement.
To hold the template in situ, I use 6 short screws, countersunk so the router runs smoothly.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...c-IMG_1746.JPG
Now that this is done it is time to attach the fingerboard.
I cut the ends off three of the screws and screw them pointy end up into the holes from the template attachment.
Next I locate the fingerboard and clamp it down so the points dig in. This gives me locating pins to make it easier to locate the fingerboard when I glue it down.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...f-IMG_1749.JPG
Before I spread the glue I place a strip of tape over the truss rod. This prevents glue squeezing down and fouling it up.
Normally I use masking tape and remove it before I place the board but this time I have used a trick I got from Gav, good old Sellotape which is thin enough to leave in place.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...j-IMG_1751.JPG
Now I can place the fingerboard and clamp it tight.
Lunch time!
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...9-IMG_1752.JPG
After the glue has set sufficiently- 1 hour for Titebond- off with the clamps, shape the headstock and drill the tuner holes.
For this job I am using my new toy from Stewmac, a tuner hole jig.
Man does this make it easier! 10 minutes and the holes are done.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...6-IMG_1753.JPG
Now the neck is roughed in, I use the ledge mentioned earlier as a guide to rout the fingerboard flush to the neck.
Usually I would cut the fingerboard separately but as I am using a pre-radiused and slotted fingerboard it is more accurate to go this way as it needs to be accurately square to the neck.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...t-IMG_1755.JPG
Beer o'clock :D
Wow DB, I love these well explained and well photographed scratch builds you put up. You're skills are great to watch. There must be a fantastic satisfaction building something like this with your hands from scratch. Same with Gav's acoustic build that I'm only half way through - very skilled artists in your own rights.
I'd certainly be interested in a short course - just depending on what and how much - also gotta save for those tools and kits 8-).
It's like watching a child being born and taking their first breath! For me it was a spiritual experience and the ultimate satisfaction. The other day I took my first ever build to my mate's Music shop where a gent in his 60's asked to play the guitar. Man! Could he play dem blues! All the staff and I watched in awe as he got the full tonal qualities of the guitar which everyone had already agreed sounded good. Now it just sounded sensational!Quote:
/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from MetalMatt on June 17, 2013, 23:37
Wow DB, I love these well explained and well photographed scratch builds you put up. You're skills are great to watch. There must be a fantastic satisfaction building something like this with your hands from scratch. Same with Gav's acoustic build that I'm only half way through - very skilled artists in your own rights.
The best part was that the Blue's player was stunned that this wasn't my full time occupation! A marked contrasts from my woodwork teachers opinion of my abilities! Which goes to show you don't necessarily need a high level of skill to do this work, but you do need a great ear and great feel!