If your inlay is too intricate, would you consider using something to fill the area? Coloured wood filler or a glue mixed with something?
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If your inlay is too intricate, would you consider using something to fill the area? Coloured wood filler or a glue mixed with something?
Sounds like it's time to invest in a laser cutter.
Yeah I did mess about with filler made from ca glue and saw dust. This was how it turned out:Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkMark
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...62e240e3f0.jpg
Not good enough for use on the real thing! But I do intend to keep practicing!
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Now you’re taking Simon!Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
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I think Mark was talking about an inlay alternative. There was some discussion between Mark & Dozy about it here:Quote:
Yeah I did mess about with filler made from ca glue and saw dust. This was how it turned out:
https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...=11174&page=10
At least I think that's what he was referring to...
Ahh - yes I see - I’ll give that some thought [emoji1303]Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
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Somewhere online there's a video (YT???) of a wood turner guy using the crystal stuff.Quote:
Originally Posted by Groovyman32
Easy Inlay at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WXwutRSdQQg.Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
It is quite easy to use. Quite expensive also. Cutting the inlay recess for the logo would still be the hard part. I have only made round inlays using forstner drill bits.
Yeah, McCreed understands me. I experimented with a few substances (that sounds wrong). Here’s an example I did with glitter and glue.
That looks awesome Mark!Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkMark
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[QUOTE=Groovyman32;214298]That looks awesome Mark!
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Thanks. I’d be happy to use it again.
I’m done with the soft finish and continually burning through and fixing. So this morning I did this:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...406d9ee944.jpg
I’ve got some Rustins Plastic Coating… [emoji1696]
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The progress has been slow over the last couple of weeks.
Re-staining took a little while until I got something I was happy with. I then put on a few coats of shellac sanding sealer before applying the RPC. I found the shellac quite difficult to work with. I'd not used it before but it seemed to go very sticky quickly after application. So it seems you have one or two drags with the cloth before it gets all messy. Anyway after some faff and some light sanding it looked really nice - a subtle sheen gave it a healthy woody looking glow. At this point I considered just going with some wax.
But... nah - I crashed on with the RPC. I seem to be really sensitive to chemical odours - and RPC really does stink. Despite using a spray mask and goggles it did not do my head any good. But I got three coats on in about six hours or so. It looks a bit of dogs dinner at the moment but I think it has potential.
The lessons learnt are that you need way less than you think. The instructions say put it on "liberally" as it it's self levelling. My first coat was way too liberal as I ended up with a ton of runnage which was difficult to control and took a load of sanding back once it dried. Anyway, I mixed 200ml of it using the coverage from the docs. But I was a out by mile as I only used 50ml of it for three coats.
It says it's polishable after 12-24 hrs - But I'm going to leave it a few more days. I've ordered some more wet/dry paper as stuff I was using from Amazon for a few quid seems like junk - so when that arrives I'll try to make it shine.
What mixing ratio did you use?Quote:
I then put on a few coats of shellac sanding sealer before applying the RPC. I found the shellac quite difficult to work with. I'd not used it before but it seemed to go very sticky quickly after application. So it seems you have one or two drags with the cloth before it gets all messy.
I rarely go any heavier than a "1 lb cut" and admit it can dry fast especially the first few coats on raw timber. What I have found (I guess you also) is not to be too fussed about strokes in the first few coats. Once the shellac has developing a build, then level sand it. Subsequent coats will then lay down much smoother.
FYI:
An approximate "metric" 1lb cut = 12g shellac flake per 100ml of alcohol [aka: denatured alcohol; methylated spirit]
And it's worth paying a bit extra to get 100% ethyl alcohol rather than the cheaper stuff you find at Joe Bogg's Hardware Store. That stuff is usually 95% ethyl alcohol and can actually contain a % of water. Water + Shellac = Bad. The flakes dissolve quicker and better in the pure stuff also.
I've been down the chap Amazon wet and dry paper route. And threw it all away. Backing paper was far to hard; didn't soften when soaked and cracked when bent. Also the grit just fell off the paper. The stuff from Halfords is pretty good if you need some in a hurry. I tend to get Mirka or Kligspor now when buying from Amazon.
100% Ethanol is almost impossible to get in the UK as it's drinking alcohol. It's almost always 90%-96% denatured Ethanol (otherwise it would cost a fortune in spirit tax). And it's hard from the containers to find what's in that other 4%.Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
The stuff I got was premixed:Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
https://www.barrettinepro.co.uk/25/3...Sanding-Sealer
It says the final coat could be applied with 50/50 methylated spirit - which I tired, but it didn't help. The biggest problem was over the darker sides of the body. The front and back looked fine when sanded back but the sides just looked liked I'd hacked at it with sandpaper.
Anyway it took a little work to get it back to the "not too bad" stage. Once I applied the RPC it looked fine.
I learned with dry paper not skimp on it. I started using Allan Calder's sanding supplies (https://www.sandpapersupplies.co.uk/). Allan's paper (RhinoGrip I think) is so much nicer to use. It doesn't clog up nearly as easily as the Amazon crap and when it does a quick brush with a towel gets it back to almost new again. It might be a more expensive but you use so much less of it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
Unfortunately Allan doesn't seem to do wet 'n dry so I've ordered some from the polishing shop (https://www.thepolishingshop.co.uk/). I think the brand is Matador. If I don't get on with that I'll try the brands you've suggested - thanks!
I spent a little while before lunch dry sanding with some of Allan's best P800 vintage and the body has cleaned up really nicely. I've got it pretty flat now - I'll leave it now until the new WnD paper arrives.
I'm just terrified I'm going to burn through - again!! :eek:
I'm surprised the Australian Government doesn't see the opportunity there!Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
This is the stuff I get from an antique furniture restoration supply business. It is labelled as "industrial", don't know if that makes any difference in its taxability. I pay $10/L for this stuff vs $4 from the BGS or grocery store.
Attachment 41443
I use plenty of the cheap stuff for general purpose uses and with dyes, but the pure stuff is reserved just for making shellac.
Here’s the final finish. After the RPC it got an 800-2500 wet sand and then three grades of menzerna polish.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...02fe99495e.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...c9e47c72cf.jpg
It does seem to be much harder than my wipe on poly. I’ve tentatively tried to push my finger nail into it and it seems to resist.
I’m happy with it - still not perfect but a vast improvement over the finish on the PB kit.
I’d be happy to use RPC again - but I’m tempted to try something else for the next one.
Anyway on to assembly… [emoji1303]
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Looking very slick. None work.
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Looks like a pro job to me! Good work!
Look forward to your next demo. I liked the last one you did.
Looks great, can't wait to see the final results.
Thanks everyone - I'm not going to lie - there are some defects in it. I'm not sure but I think the problems started with the first coat of RPC. I think it went on too thick and created too much unevenness. So it in an effort to remove the lumps and bumps it went too thin in places. Especially on the under side. But I can live with it - especially as the top and back look nice.
I think the main point for me is progression from last one - as long as I keep getting better I'll be trending towards a perfect finish.
Thanks Mc! I've got a few ideas. I’m hoping this is going to be another rock machine so I'm thinking along the lines of Lenny Kravtiz?Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
My goal for yesterday was to get the neck on so I fitted the bridge and tuners. I then clamped on the neck and ran the Es to check how the strings were running down the fretboard. It all looked good so I put the clamped neck/body on a stand and went off for dinner.
Then life got in the way and it got too late and I was too tired to safely do any more on it. So rather than leaving it in it's clamped state I took the strings off and released the clamp... still on the stand... the neck falls in slow motion and crashes into the body - but I can't save it. And so this:
Attachment 41502
There's another mark in the top but it's under the pick guard - but the pictured damage is just under where your forearm goes.
So I'm not sure what to do. I'm not sure it's fixable - at least with my current skill level. I could try to fill the dents with more RCP but all my attempts of fixing burn throughs in past have just caused more damage when I try to rub it back. As this is on the edge I expect that I will more than likely damage the areas around the fills.
So it seems I have to start again - for a third time - or just live it <sigh/>.
All advice (and sympathy) welcome.
That is a real shame.
Attachment 41503
The impact has delaminated the RPC, so you'd have to sand through the layers until you got back to the first attached layer, and that may be the wood.
I'd give sanding back a go, as you've got nothing to loose. If you hit the wood and start taking off the stain, then it's still not the end of the world as it is solid black and not a fade transition area, so it should re-stain OK. If it doesn't look right, then you can still do the full strip back.
Relic?????
Sorry.....:(
Perhaps I can offer a relicing service...Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
I have two live-in finish relic agents, one is 8 and the other is 2. 🤬 thankfully they only get to the ones I’ve built.Quote:
Originally Posted by Groovyman32
Here’s my attempt at a repair…
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...c925dba451.jpg
(No, I haven’t stuck a piano to side of it. That’s also a very small piano, not a massive guitar).
It looks… okay - you can still feel it if you run your fingers along the edge but it doesn’t look a total dog’s dinner now… perhaps a dog’s entree or amuse bouche?
The process was to scrape off all the loose bits with a scalpel blade, then sand with fairy fingers. I applied a stain to any uncovered wood and then used a cotton bud to dab on some RCP. It was then back with the fairy fingers to sand 1500 wnd as smooth as I dare. I did a couple of rounds with the RCP and then polished.
Either way that’s how it’s going to stay - for the time being.
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Looks fine to me. Well done.
I would have glued the freakin' piano to it! Awesome!
I agree it looks good. I'm not sure I can even see the repair in that photo.
Thanks guys - and thanks for giving me the confidence to try.
Actually I think that kind of repair is a little easier then a sanding burn through. There’s much more of a definite edge to sand up to. With a burn through you have to try to blend it in without disturbing the surrounding area too much.
I’ve finally got around to putting this together:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b8e90e95bc.jpg
The wiring was fiddly as both pots are push pull to split the pickups. The neck is a vintage stack and the bridge is a little ‘59. But the wires are tiny!
I’m pleased with the sound - I’ve still got to finesse the nut and do the setup. On the home straight now!
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Looks great!
I see you went with the reverse control plate. I much prefer that to the traditional layout and have it on all 3 of my teles.
I can't tell from the photo, but are those compensated brass saddles?
Now... how's the strat build going????? :o
Thanks - Yes - it seems more natural to me to have the switch at the back. It’s in that rough location on a couple of my other guitars so hopefully I’ll instinctively reach for it there.Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
The Strat build hasn’t started yet - I’m hoping I’ll get to get the finish on before the weather turns. [emoji1303]
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Oh and yes, compensated brass saddles [emoji1303]
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I like having the volume control up front so I can do volume swells with my pinky like a strat. However, I do that less nowadays since I added a volume/wah pedal to my board a while ago. I still like the feel of having it there on the tele though.Quote:
Thanks - Yes - it seems more natural to me to have the switch at the back. It’s in that rough location on a couple of my other guitars so hopefully I’ll instinctively reach for it there.
Just a side question here... Did you already have that case for the tele, or did you buy it just for that guitar?
The reason I ask is I have often found myself with one more guitar case than guitars. This has usually resulted in the appearance of one more guitar! I currently find myself in that situation and struggling not to fill that case. It's upsetting the balance of the entire guitar ecosystem!