Got some time with my new toys this morning:
https://i.imgur.com/zDEn5qy.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/UWnFHoM.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/KBAR8Yf.jpg
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Printable View
Got some time with my new toys this morning:
https://i.imgur.com/zDEn5qy.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/UWnFHoM.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/KBAR8Yf.jpg
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Wow! I go into hospital for two weeks and look at the progress! looking good! The folding saw and rasp are kwel, and would make short work out of most timber.I get junk e-mail on a regular basis from Timbercon. For me Carbatec is a bit more local, if a little expensive.
Looking good Dozy! (same reply in the St. Vincent thread - sorry)
That looks great, nice effect.
Were the zig zag cuts to assist the removal of the material?
Thanks all.
Partly, but mostly shaping reasons.
I saw the technique used by Kanji Kawabata when carving a comfort curve, but he used a chisel to remove the mass.
When I was filing the curves for my TC59, it was tedious trying to find right curve. The pull saw gives a straight guide line to hit with the rasp, nice and flat.
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@Dozy - yours is a very craftsman-like process...
My method involves a 4" angle grinder with a flap disc!!! (this is why I will never be a craftsman :o)
If it gets the same results, it's a valid method!
But isn't that why woodwork is great. So many different ways to achieve the same result.
I can't say I wouldn't use an angle grinder, all things being equal. But pretty happy with how it's going so far.
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Two months later...
Having multiple projects on the go means I can get a bit of space between how I feel about things. I wasn't quite loving where the first of my scratch projects was going, specifically some of the angles.
I put in a few hours today, and put an all round bevel on with the shinto rasp. I am back in love.
https://i.imgur.com/AdFbhNu.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/s2O73Lm.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/pFQhcgI.jpg
The sheoak really loves a bevel.
That looks great. Taking a bit off really adds a lot! Nice move.
I bet it feels better on the forearm too.
Look forward to seeing it smoothed out and a clear coat on there. I reckon it will really come to life.
Certainly looks better to me.
But what are your plans for the jack socket as now you’ve angled the top of the hole, so you now won’t get one to fit flush? Drill a wider hole and inset an electrosocket, maybe rounding off the edges of the hole?
Yep, electrosocket is the plan for now. It was one of those decisions where I stopped for a few seconds, then decided I'd figure it out somehow.
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It's looking fantastic Dozy
Just a few coats of TO and some hardware mocked up.
https://i.imgur.com/7oVQhmk.jpg
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Heck yeah, dude. That looks mint!
Looking good.
Have you dealt with the jack socket area yet (can't see from this angle)? If not, I wouldn't leave it too long if you are putting the TO on properly now.
I've got an electrosocket en route. And yeah, I'm not laying any more TO down until I've sorted it out. I also need to route the control cavity a bit deeper (and maybe the neck pocket slightly as well).
Very nice. Are you going for a "thick" gloss with the Tru Oil?
And what's that tele in the upper right of the photo???
Looking great Dozy.
Are you tru-oiling the fretboard as well?
Looking superb. Some people like the feel of tru oil, some do not. My first guitar had the engineered rosewood and I gave it a number of coats to seal and protect it. I hated the feel and rubbed it back with steel wool to give a much improved feel under the finger tips. You’ll do what you want of course but I thought I’d share my experience.
Stuff happening
https://i.imgur.com/EulNTJH.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/5cYO6jo.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/b5MGjkK.jpg
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More stuff happening
https://i.imgur.com/heg4ZVo.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/3TsbyLz.jpeg
Was originally hoping to leave the back natural, but paulownia grain is not that pretty, and I had to redrill the string-through holes, which is hard to cover up when staining. So here I am with septone satin black finish.
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Looking very tasty indeed bro!
Very nice finish the black back fits perfectly with the beveled natural grain front
I dig the two-tone also. Looks great.
That feeling when you're casually browsing the Real Parts website, building an order, and you see:
We will be closed the 24th to 30th September, as we have updates happening on the webstore, plus warehouse stocktake. Due to the logistics and nature of these updates, we won't be taking any orders during this period.
:eek:
(I placed an order quick smart)
Looking good to me.
Spent a lot more time on this cavity cover than I was expecting to, but hopefully I get that back the next time I try something similar...
https://i.imgur.com/KU3rGAF.jpeg
The piece of sheoak I'm working with is about 12mm thick, and I wanted this to be 4mm, which I achieved using a router as a thicknesser.
I had to shape the piece before using the router, following an unsuccessful first attempt where I tried to cut the piece after getting it to 4mm, but it was too brittle and snapped.
I'm pretty happy with how it has turned out, and glad I don't have to think about it at the end of the project.
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Sweet boomerang!
Top work on honing those router skills . Looks great!
Assembly time.
https://i.imgur.com/WoEekFx.jpeg
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Cool! Look forward to seeing the final product.
I like the logo, but what does it mean, or what it's significance?
Also, does the boomarang come back?
Fold tab A into slot B...
Don't forget the nut, which seems to be missing from the photo. And the strings. And the wire. And the output jack itself...
;)
Hope it all goes smoothly.
Looking good. I love the headstock and logo.
That's going to come up trumps dude! Can't wait to see this one together.