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Maybe Japan Black instead as that allows some of the timber underneath to be seen?
Black inks & dyes can be tricky to use and quite often come out some crappy shade of brown. I have always considered doing a weathered black look and from past experiments good quality fountain pen ink seems to be the best bet, applied full strength, allowed to dry for at least 24 hours, and then wipe as much off with a 'just damp' cloth to soak back up as much as you can. This leaves more of the full strength colour in the grain and removes most of what tends to sit on the surface.
Rarely had a stain idea go to plan as each bit of timber reacts differently and you end up just having to make the most out of how things progress.
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Sorry about the lack of activity ive had, i went on a tangent and renewed one of my old kits that i thought looked absolutely disgusting, ive provided images of what it was before, the aftermath of bad application of wipe on poly sigh. Ive ventured into can applied poly and i must say i love it. Everythings going well, i need to pick up another can of gloss for my 7 string ib kit, the lp spalt is done with satin, sadly the lp spalt has a better flame then the flamed IB7? ahah oh well, ive noticed some errors on my custom that i didnt see till now such as; split in fretboard near the nut, mustve been kept together by the nut still being screwed there? Also the fretboard hasnt had enough glue to the neck and has some empty spots under it. Ive also decided to make my own custom leather cavity covers! Ordered in some black offcuts and made some prototypes :) Another thing, ive bought an old fashioned wax seal stamp with a calligraphy v imprinted on it (For my last name) and i intend to make some cool logos, even as far as moulding and casting some copper of it, screwing it on or routing etc. I have spare cigar box wood laying around im going to use a nice piece for the truss rod cover. Hope you guys enjoy whats coming! heres the link https://imgur.com/a/PKXnE6O
Cheers,
MBM
