Mike's build #2: STA-1

That's sexy man...really like how that's coming up.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by FrankenWashie

That's sexy man...really like how that's coming up.

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I second that

She's a bad girl:eek:

Been a slow week of progress, but got back on her today.

So far, it's been 6 thin coats of tru oil, then a very light run with 0000 steel wool, then did coat number 7 today. Aiming for 12 coats.

Not sure if steel wool is the best thing to use, should I use 600 grit instead?

She's looking gorgeous so far though!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...cd37da4a65.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...975b69b92a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...58da17a17f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f24021c1b9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9a54280cd1.jpg

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Steel wool can leave some particles behind, I think most people use 800-1000 grit wet and dry with some diluted tru oil?

I'm using P800 paper with turps to rub down my Tru-Oil finishes once dry. I'm not convinced Tru-Oil is waterproof, so I avoid using water for rubbing down. I did try soapy water once, but I saw evidence of some grain swelling so I stopped (then again I may just have sanded back a bit too far). At some point you are going to have to stop adding tru-oil and do the final sanding back (if you plan to polish it further), so I suggest using turps for that, even if you've rubbed down using diluted tru-oil previously.

Thanks Simon and Frankenwashie for the good advice!

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Hey Simon, I tried some 600 grit with turps, it left it smooth but its left all these grainy spots. Is that normal? Looks like gaps have been filled with the sanded off finish, mixed with turps. Should I have gone with diluted tru oil instead?

Changed to the black pick guard today and took a photo of a mock up to keep myself sane.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a680d3d1fd.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f92641bdf0.jpg

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Grainy isn't the right word, but hopefully the pic is clear

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Andy40

It may be arseways but here's my method before I start making mods.

1. I would measure and mark the centre of the neck at the nut, at the 12th and the heel;

2. I would measure and mark the centre of the heel rout in the body and the trem rout;

3. Then I would check that the neck is centered with the body and the trem rout (to make sure no modifications are needed - there shouldn't)

4. I would mark the centre position of the the bridge then square it up and fit and drill accordingly;

5. I would then put the low and High E tuning pegs in the neck, clamp the neck into place, then to a dry fit with the low and High E strings loaded though the trem. You will then see where to move the neck (there is a nit of wiggle room) so it is positioned so that there is even room all the way along the fretboard with both the low and High E strings.

at that point you will know thats where you want to drill the neck in place.

you can check where the pen dots are positioned at that time or just plug and redrill the whole lot.

I use 6mm tassie oak doweling from the big green shed to plug.

if you do plug and redrill, make sure you use the neck plate to square it up on the back

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Like it...mark and measure..thanks for this nice snapshot of info

It's mainly Tru-Oil dust, along with some of the grit from the paper, and a wipe with a clean rag, wetted with turps or white spirit, should clean them up. But some of the look may be due to breaking through the Tru-Oil and exposing the wood. Just keep adding the Tru-Oil layers and rubbing back from time to time.