Toshi's first build: PBA-4

Toshi, also please note that there are different standards of grading sandpaper. The European FEPA/EURO standard sandpapers always have a P in front of the grit value e.g. P400. The American ANSI/CAMI standard papers don't. The two different standards differ somewhat once the grit number goes above 220, with the CAMI standard grits being finer than the FEPA equivalent grit numbers. Note also that Micromesh products have a very different grit grading system to either of the above systems.

Here's a link to a comparison chart. https://www.thesandpaperman.com.au/a...ion-chart.html

Australia seems to use EURO/FEPA graded sandpapers, as do we here in the UK, but I don't know what the typical sandpaper available in Singapore is. I'm sure there are some areas of the world where both are available.

But on this forum, most people will be referring to EURO/FEPA graded sandpapers, with a P in front of the grit number, so when someone says 'sand to 400 grit', unless they obviously live in North America, assume they are talking about P400 grit - equivalent to ANSI/CAMI 320 grit.

So just check on the back of the sandpaper you're using, and whether the grit number has a 'P' in front of it. Whilst there is only a very slight difference at the 240 grit level, as the grit numbers go higher, the difference becomes greater e.g. an ANSI/CAMI 400 grit is significantly finer than a EURO/FEPA P600 grit paper.

>>Waz,
Thank you for the advice and photos! it is very helpful. I just found Timbermate in Singapore! :D but colour is natural, so i am thinking mixing with black colour dye. This photos help show me how it would be like after applying filler and after sanding it out so well, that this make me sure how i should work on it!

>>Simon,
Thank you for the information and conversion chart! Oh, I really didn't know there are several standards on sanding paper... very useful info. I have bought them just by checking only numbers. When I go home today, I will definitely check the back of the sheet!

Hi Toshi, I have used a couple of shades of timber mate, ebony & natural, and it sometimes comes out of the container in a gooey, sticky sort of way where you just add small amounts of water to help thin it down into a paste like slurry to then apply to the body with a spatula. One of those silicon kitchen ones used for cake decorating would be good to use. An old credit card is what I used and that did the trick too.

Suggest you dig some timber mate out into a plastic container (takeaway fried rice containers are a good size) add the black ink or dye to it first and mix that in as the ink or dye may be watery enough to create the slurry. If not, maybe just adding small amounts of water at a time between mixing until you get the right consistency.

It will smell like plastic whilst wet and still stinks next day once it has dried out.

WARNING: When sanding off the timber mate you need to wear a dust mask as you don't want to get any of the fine particles in your eyes, nose or mouth and either vacuum or sweep up the mess as soon as possible otherwise you will always have wind blown particles swirling all around. On mine I did all the sanding outside near a garden and just swept the mess into the garden bed as once wet it dissolves away.

>>Hi Waz, thanks again for your advice. Well noted with all instructions. I almost done with body sanding. so now I started a practice for Timbermate with a small wooden board as photo as below. It was so much dust :eek: as you said. i will soon to buy disposal globes, mask and goggle, before proceeding to filling grain.

>>Hi Simon, just for update. I have checked a back of sanding paper and found there was no P before numbers, so i assume they are ANSI or CAMI USA standard! they are made in japan or china.:)

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Hi Toshi. In that case use the conversion chart to pick a grade closest to the ones generally talked about here. Up to 220 grit they are the same, but above that you need to compensate for the difference, otherwise it's easy to over-polish the wood, especially when staining.

Hi Toshi, the timbermate dust in that photo looks similar to black talcum powder as that is how fine it can get. Extremely messy but the effect is worth the small amount of inconvenience.

Cheers, Waz

>>Hi Simon, thank you for advice. Noted, as moving forward, grit will be higher, so I will be careful for this conversion. :)

>>Hi Waz, thank you for advice too. yeah, sanding out filler was really messy. as you did i may have to carry it out outside. since i stay at a rent-apartment without garden, i am thinking going out to park or just back yard to sand out. :cool:


By the way, before i start applying filler, if can get any advice from all, it would be appreciated.
I sanded out body with #240 several times and now thinking going to fill out grain, but found some scratch and glue spot at bottom of body as below. would i be better to remove those spots completely or can go for filler process?

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thank you in advance!

Hi Toshi, sanding process coming along well. I'd try and sand out the machine marks on the bottom edge before the grain filling. It's a bit difficult but try and sand along the grain. I usually sand each piece of the ash (to the edge of each glued piece of the body) one at a time so you concentrate sanding with the grain. Be best to probably go back to 120 or 180 grit for these areas, then over again with 240 grit then you should be ok to grain fill.

Hi Toshi, Woks has provided you with some good advice.

Photo 1 - that horizontal scratch will only come out after sanding at 90 degrees to the scratch and thus following the grain pattern, and coarser grit will be required. Once the scratch is gone you can the switch back to sanding across the end grain, but only after all obvious machine marks and scratches are completely gone.

Photo 2 - looks like some filler in a low lying part of the edge where those planks have been joined. I would sand in a diagonal direction from bottom right hand side of that shot, again following the grain pattern.

Photo 3 - this has two different grain patterns converging around what looks like a small amount of glue or filler. Same sanding process as above 2 points.

The end grains will most likely come up highly polished after sanding and not take much timber mate which is not such a bad thing as that grain will still be visible through a translucent finish. Where timber mate does most of it's magic is on the front & back and be careful not to over sand and end up polishing those faces too much.

>>Hi Wokkaboy and Waz,
Thank you so much for advice and specific instructions. Well noted with those. I will continue sanding out those spots and mark carefully to remove them. as i see grain getting better look, it is really a joy of building.