Hi Willem, you can get some standard auto colours in can and a lot of paint shops can make up a can of most auto colours, usually around the $30 a can cost though.
Printable View
Hi Willem, you can get some standard auto colours in can and a lot of paint shops can make up a can of most auto colours, usually around the $30 a can cost though.
Hi Willem,
white should be a standard rattle can colour, some different shades and some are gloss or satin. Yes they sell these at Auto shops. The auto rattle can paint should be more durable and better quality and handle heat better.
250g of timbermate should be enough, for grain filling you make up a slurry and mix some water in, so that should be enough.
I ended up getting 500g of timbermate to play it safe it has an indefinite shelf life so I can always use extra later should I do another build
Willem you're not sure if you are going to do another build ? hahahaQuote:
Originally Posted by Willem
not many people stop at 1 build
remeasured with my new steel rule and its 312 from nut to 12th and 321 from the 12th to the peak of the saddle
Willem so that measurement 12th fret to E saddle of 321, is that to the saddle wound all the way forward ?
Sounds similar to my measurements and I'm pretty sure we need to chop out a small notch out of the neck or you won't be able to intonate it. May need to shorten the heel as well. Ideally the E string should be about 315 to 318mm from centre of 12th fret, but you won't find this out till it's intonated.
The only other option is to plug and re-drill the bridge holes and bring them forward, must be a common problem with the ash kits.
yep that's with the low e saddle wound all the way forward and that is to the peak or back of the saddle. There is about a full centimetre of wood past the 22nd fret that I'm sure could be filed down without messing anything up, at the moment I think thats the way to go I mean if I can file it down so that the heel meets the cavity that should be good and then I'll try remeasure and see where to go from there, there is some work to be done before that though and if that is in reality the fast track to wrecking my kit then please tell me
Also since I'm lacking in the bandsaw department, should I end up trimming down the neck, then how should I go about doing so?
A good file or rasp will get the material off fairly quickly and you can gradually bring the measurement down. Nothing worse than stuffing a cut and taking too much off.
I thought I should ask before I keep sanding I know I should sand with the grain but there are a few areas where I'm a bit confused as to exactly which direction I should be sanding I've taken some pictures can someone help me out?
Attachment 1233
Attachment 1234
Attachment 1235
Attachment 1236
Attachment 1237
there is one more which is probably the most confusing so I'll post that below this